60JD Stalling under load

[THOMASJOHN]

Tractor idles good, when I start pulling disc the tractor seems to skip are something,it runs ruff
Is there a load screw adjustment on it.
There is a good flow of gas at the carb.,
Also I notice that the clutch would need to held forward when under load or it would not pull any suggestions on these problems
Thanks Tommy

 

[wilamayb]

Weak spark and starving for fuel can both cause stumble under load. Yes, there is a load adjustment on the carb.

The clutch needs to be tended as soon as possible. Holding continuous pressure on the lever will wear the fork to the point that you could shave with it. It also wears the operating sleeve.

There is something obviously wrong with your clutch. It is either out of adjustment and likley has some serious wear on engagement parts.

I'd start first by attempting to tighten the castellated nuts equally. If that doesnt work then you may have to dig deeper.

If you cant figure it out just snap up a couple pics so we can identify the worn parts.

 

[THOMASJOHN]

Wilmayba,
About where can i find this adjustment screw, and about how many turns does the idle screws need to be backed out?

 

[B n 60]

Rule of thumb I always heard was 1.25-1.5 turns from bottom on load adjustment...

 

[Mike Aylward]

Actually, a good starting point on the metering screw is about 2 to 2 1/4 turns open. And be VERY careful when "bottoming" this screw. The small taper on the end of this screw is lightly riveted to the screw. If you tighten the screw too tight and then back it off the screw will come but the taper won't. Then you have a mess. Also, with the symptoms you have you might have to remove the screw and see if the taper seat has turned. This seat has two holes in it that should be headed to the sides of the carburetor. If this seat has turned the engine will starve for gas. This taper has a slot in it you can see and the slot should be perpendicular to the air flow of the carburetor. The slot and the holes line up. Mike

 

[BushogPapa]

Thomas, be VERY Careful trying to turn those Castellated nuts in the clutch..
If you need to put very much pressure on them, soak them with penetrating oil..!!
If you force them too much, the other end of those bolts will BREAK the clutch-drum..right where the clutch-brake rides..
They are getting scarce and expensive because of this..!!
Good luck..!!
Ron.

 

[hojon_1]

Some other things to look at would be changing out the plugs. My tractor ran fine at idle but choked when under load (Hit on 1 cylinder) and it ended up being a bad plug even though they were only a year old.

Mike is right as there is a tech bulletin that was published in Green magazine I think that says to start at 2 - 2 1/4 turns.

If you didn't mess with the govenor linkage I wouldn't suspect any of that but in case you did with the throttle lever fully back the spring should barely touch the govenor arm. According to the book you should be able to slide a piece of paper between them, 3 - 4 thou or so.

Throttle open you should be 1/2 hole short at the carb.

On adjusting the clutch I would make sure there is nothing else wrong, oil or broken parts, before adjusting castle nuts. You might just have to tear it all apart again anyway. If you don't see anything wrong use a torque wrench to set the castle nuts at 10 ft/lbs each with the clutch engaged. Mike told me about this and it works perfect. I tried it both ways using the equal turns method and also using the torque wrench. When I used the toeque wrench I found that one of the castle nuts tightened up 3/4 of a turn before the other two.