611b battery drain

[jbshocks]

First a little back story. I had the cluster out to replace the glass and repair a couple of gauges. The Amp gauge worked and was removed and replaced. When hooking it back up I hooked the single wire to the bottom post. This thin wire connects to the heavy battery cable at the solenoid. There is a 3 wire crimp that is on the other post. This is the original junction crimp with one lead going to the voltage regulator, one to the key switch and one to the light switch.

The battery will die in a couple of days if it isn't run. I disconnected the the B+ battery cable and installed a test light in series and the light is on. If I disconnect the the single wire to the bottom of the amp gauge the light goes out. C-9 in the service manual has a wiring diagram but not a proper schematic. From what I can tell of the diagram the amp gauge is not switched by the key. I am confused. Is it the gauge, VR, Generator?

 

[DKase]

The way you explained your system you are powering your entire tractor through the thin wire from
the solenoid to the ammeter. This should be a heavy wire. You will have to test the 3 wire crimp
and see which wire is causing the drain. If I were to guess I would start with the voltage
regulator.

 

[jbshocks]

(quoted from post at 07:08:45 11/19/18) The way you explained your system you are powering your entire tractor through the thin wire from
the solenoid to the ammeter. This should be a heavy wire. You will have to test the 3 wire crimp
and see which wire is causing the drain. If I were to guess I would start with the voltage
regulator.

I should clarify. The single wire from the ammeter to solenoid meets up with a large cable that goes to the battery. Is there anything in the VR to service? Or does it just need to be replaced?

 

[rvirgil_KS]

?There is a 3 wire crimp that is on the other post. This is the original junction crimp with one lead going to the voltage regulator, one to the key switch and one to the light switch. ? Lead to regulator should go to the BAT terminal. This is the charge output, other wires supply power to the switches.

There should be a charge wire from other side of ammeter to start solenoid which supplies charge to the battery when engine is running, and battery power back to switches when engine is off. The wire from ammeter to solenoid should be same gauge (10 or 12) as wire from BAT on regulator to other side of ammeter. your "thin wire" might be an incorrect replacement at some time in the past.

?From what I can tell of the diagram the amp gauge is not switched by the key.? Correct. Ammeter should be hot whenever battery is connected, it does not switch off.? Switches control power to lights and ignition

If all wires are reconnected the way they were previously, it sounds like the cut out points in the regulator may be stuck closed.

 

[jbshocks]

It is wired the way you describe. The "thin" wire is likely 12 gauge. I said thin comparing to the main battery cable. Can the ammeter be jumpered accross and still have charging circuit work? This would allow me to be sure it is either the regulator or ammeter causing the draw.

 

[rvirgil_KS]

Can the ammeter be jumpered accross and still have charging circuit work?" Yes, the ammeter is just a pass through device. With current bypassed through the jumper it just won't indicate.

"This would allow me to be sure it is either the regulator or ammeter causing the draw." No. Only way an ammeter would cause the draw is if one of the post has a leakage path to ground. Jumping across ammeter would not affect the leakage path.

Disconnect ARMature lead from regulator. If this eliminates the draw your regulator cut out points are stuck closed and is feeding current back through the generator. Might want to disconnect battery before taking off ARM lead

 

[jbshocks]

(quoted from post at 09:56:17 11/19/18) Can the ammeter be jumpered accross and still have charging circuit work?" Yes, the ammeter is just a pass through device. With current bypassed through the jumper it just won't indicate.

"This would allow me to be sure it is either the regulator or ammeter causing the draw." No. Only way an ammeter would cause the draw is if one of the post has a leakage path to ground. Jumping across ammeter would not affect the leakage path.

Disconnect ARMature lead from regulator. If this eliminates the draw your regulator cut out points are stuck closed and is feeding current back through the generator. Might want to disconnect battery before taking off ARM lead

Thanks I will give it a try this weekend.

 

[John Saeli]

If it is indeed a generator, keep checking, but if by some chance, your generator has been changed to an alternator, then chances are 99.9% the drain is within the alternator. Common problem with certain alternators.

 

[jbshocks]

(quoted from post at 15:07:08 11/19/18) If it is indeed a generator, keep checking, but if by some chance, your generator has been changed to an alternator, then chances are 99.9% the drain is within the alternator. Common problem with certain alternators.

John, it is still the original generator

 

[kevinthefixer]

Here is the wiring diagram from the Case service manual, but as you pointed out, it isn't much help here.