63 John Deere Model 2010

Norseman

New User
I acquired my Model 2010 when I purchased some property in 2019. I've always wanted a "real tractor" but never actually needed one. She's been rode hard and put away wet for sure and my intent has never been to do an actual restoration, but it's needed some important upgrades.
I started with rear tires and new points, condenser, coil and plugs. Then found the carburetor desperately needed a rebuild.
I added a new seat and steering wheel and eventually got it running quite well.
Then it became obvious the brakes needed serious attention. Discs and brake pads were seized on the shafts, but I did complete the repair and now feel safer with decent brakes.
One remaining question I have pertains to the engagement of the rear PTO. When I slide the engagement lever forward it feels as though the gears are grinding. Not wanting to push it, I decided to search for online for video or other recommendations. Unfortunately I have not found any repair videos on Youtube so I thought I would check here. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!
 
The 2010 has a unique and overly complicated PTO setup.

There's a positive mechanical disconnect (I can't remember, offhand, if it slides a gear or a collar) plus an "over-center" dry disc clutch.

It sounds as if the disc clutch part of yours may be out of adjustment or rusted stuck.

The PTO clutch is underneath the three-point lift mechanism, and there's a small access port underneath the tractor to access the clutch adjustment.

To get a good look at things requires the 3-point lift mechanism to be removed.

If you decide to do that be aware there's two hidden bolts under the top steel cover that must be removed first or you will destroy a steel hydraulic line beneath the lift cover.

It would be a good idea to get a factory technical manual, if you don't already have one.

Post back if more ???!
 
check out this blue ribbon garage video. He has about 5 different videos pertaining to the john deere 2010 pto as well as removing the rockshaft cover to gain access to the linkage to adjust it.

i need to disassemble and adjust the pto clutch on my dads 2010 RU as it does as you describe, it makes a grinding feeling slightly, as the clutch is not releasing before the shift collar is moved, but past
that point, the pto clutch feels and operates well. And i am sure it needs adjustment as it has spent decades running 3 point pto air blast sprayers for the orchards as well as 10 foot, 3 point orchard flails,
and both of those machines have a lot of mechanical inertia to get rolling. And while the flail starts and keeps running for hours, the air blast Meyers sprayer usually starts and stops at the end of each row.
Probably if the pto had been used on light inertia loads such as manure spreaders, brush hog mowers, augers or fertilizer spreaders, the adjustment would last much longer, if that makes sense?
john deere 2010 pto
 
(quoted from post at 09:28:41 01/19/22)
The 2010 has a unique and overly complicated PTO setup.

There's a positive mechanical disconnect (I can't remember, offhand, if it slides a gear or a collar) plus an "over-center" dry disc clutch.

It sounds as if the disc clutch part of yours may be out of adjustment or rusted stuck.

The PTO clutch is underneath the three-point lift mechanism, and there's a small access port underneath the tractor to access the clutch adjustment.

To get a good look at things requires the 3-point lift mechanism to be removed.

If you decide to do that be aware there's two hidden bolts under the top steel cover that must be removed first or you will destroy a steel hydraulic line beneath the lift cover.

It would be a good idea to get a factory technical manual, if you don't already have one.

Post back if more ???!

Thanks for the feedback! Your info with another appears to put me on the right track. I will let know know what I find once I complete the teardown and analysis. Holding off for a bit in case we get some heavy snow over the next few months. I may need the old 2010 to assist in keeping the drive clear.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I did check out all the Blue Ribbon Garage videos and they definitely help. I will see if a clutch adjustment might help since it sounds like I can try that without committing to a major teardown. If it doesn't work, then I'll hold off for a while since I'm counting on the 2010 to assist in keeping the drive clear if we get any heavy snow over the next couple of months. I will definitely post what I find.
 
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