641 No Start

Pwhite4407

New User
Hello all. I wanted to post this in hopes that it might someone, sometime. It’s long but, I think you’ll understand why. I have a 1959 ford 641. This has been the most reliable piece of equipment. About a year ago I did some bush hogging. Shut it down no problem. A few weeks later went to crank it and had a no start condition. Well, there just aren’t any mobile tractor guys near me. So, I started to work on it. Short story, I replaced just about everything on it. Have the shop manual, nothing. A week ago I talked with a heavy equipment guy. He came over and at the end of the day he was just a frustrated as I was. Said there was no logical reason for this. During the week, he contacted me several times and gave me some things to do. While I was poking around, I took off the valve cover (had already ruled out valve and others - great compression, etc.). Wanted to see rocker arms, valve springs, etc. to be sure. Well, I started cranking and, holy motley it fired right up. I mean as soon as I hit the starter. WOW, now I was going crazy. But guess what’s on that valve cover - a valve vent. Cleaned it up and it’s back to it’s old self. Putting on new filter and ready to get back to it. I really hope this might help someone with a similar problem.
 

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PWhite, welcome to YT! You should have place this in the Ford forum in the manufacturers section, more relevant to the topics there. I am glad to hear your tractor is running again. However, I am going to say that the fact that your tractor started with the valve cover off was strictly coincidental or “luck of the draw.” Some other problem was the cause but apparently chose to correct itself. If the space under the valve cover which is connected to the entire crankcase (space above oil pan and around crankshaft)built up pressure for some reason the engine would still start. It is more likely that in the process of removing the valve cover you moved a wire or time allowed something in the ignition to dry out. There is just no reason for the engine to not start if pressure has built up in the crankcase.
 
You know PWhite, I have the same issue with my 641. I changed out a few things, nothing lasted for long. Finally had a local, fairly reliable auto repair shop take it. Six months later, still wouldn’t run. The mechanic working on it was getting a bit surly so I told the owner, bring it back. He’s a pretty good guy. They did and here it sits.

The one clue, which may or may not be relevant, it started dieseling prior to the issues mentioned.
 
so I told the owner, bring it back. He’s a pretty good guy. They did and here it sits.
I don’t see any threads here on where you have polled the brain trust in an attempt to figure out why it doesn’t run. I do understand that there is a multitude of possible reasons why you don’t want to or can’t work on it yourself.
 
You know PWhite, I have the same issue with my 641. I changed out a few things, nothing lasted for long. Finally had a local, fairly reliable auto repair shop take it. Six months later, still wouldn’t run. The mechanic working on it was getting a bit surly so I told the owner, bring it back. He’s a pretty good guy. They did and here it sits.

The one clue, which may or may not be relevant, it started dieseling prior to the issues mentioned.
Bring it over. I LOVE CHALLENGES.
 
Rumor is around a dozen 641 series left factory with a habit of stop running then begin running again for no apparent reason. Several years ago some guy on utube claimed to narrowed down to interactions between some sort of wobble shaft and wiggle pin then he dropped out of sight, never to be heard from again. I've wrenched on Tractors for decades, including hundred series Fords from the time they were new but I'm at loss on 641s acting out.
 
You know PWhite, I have the same issue with my 641. I changed out a few things, nothing lasted for long. Finally had a local, fairly reliable auto repair shop take it. Six months later, still wouldn’t run. The mechanic working on it was getting a bit surly so I told the owner, bring it back. He’s a pretty good guy. They did and here it sits.

The one clue, which may or may not be relevant, it started dieseling prior to the issues mentioned.
You may get some help if you were to give the results of the tests that you have performed.
 
I don’t see any threads here on where you have polled the brain trust in an attempt to figure out why it doesn’t run. I do understand that there is a multitude of possible reasons why you don’t want to or can’t work on it yourself.
No, I haven’t posted about this . I posted a question once about a possible cure for a rod bearing issue. Got some good advice, also got some real snarky remarks from a guy in LA. Kind of ticked me off. I don’t need any s__t from anybody. I was raised on a farm, I do enjoy reading the postings. As far as seeking advice, no thanks. I’ll figure it out, eventually.

And, no, I don’t have the time to work on it at this point in time.
 
No, I haven’t posted about this . I posted a question once about a possible cure for a rod bearing issue. Got some good advice, also got some real snarky remarks from a guy in LA. Kind of ticked me off. I don’t need any s__t from anybody. I was raised on a farm, I do enjoy reading the postings. As far as seeking advice, no thanks. I’ll figure it out, eventually.

And, no, I don’t have the time to work on it at this point in time.
I had a no start that was hard to figure out.
Using basic electrical diagnostic tools, I found the insulation around the bolt going thru the side of the distributor had broken down.
Silly little problem that stopped the tractor dead.
HTH
Keith
 
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