656 clutch TA

[gaughan30]

I have a 67 International 656 that I had the TA and Clutch replaced on, I got the tractor home and suspected that something was amiss in the adjustment of the clutches, it was at the very bottom of the pedal and looking at the clevis it was adjusted all the way out. I tried to adjust the engine clutch to 1 1/2" free play with about an 1/8" showing on the throwout bearing lever and when I try to put it in gear it grinds now. Do I need to adjust the TA before I do anything else? Or should it go in gear regardless of how the TA is set? On a side note if anyone is in the Kansas area I would pay for some help to understand how this all works!

Thanks D

 

[Janicholson]

Jim's answer. he clutch pedal should have 1.25 to 1.5 inches of freeplay measured at the platform. The clutch will then have about 2 inches of movement downward until it releases. (this is the master clutch) from that release point The TA clutch should begin releasing, and as further pedal travel happens, will fully release before the pedal stop is reached. This assures the TA clutch is released when the pedal is down (releasing the tension on the shifter). The TA clutch should be fully engaged before the master clutch begins to engage. This assures the TA clutch is fully locked up before the engine drives the power train. the transition point is usually near mid pedal travel. Jim

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

TA has nothing to do with the grinding. The TA being out of adjustment will only make it difficult to get the tractor out of gear.

1-1/2" of free play with 1/8" showing? Not sure what you mean there but I assume you mean the gap between the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers. When the free play is taken up there should be no gap between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate fingers.

Quick overview of the powertrain of a 656: Engine, main clutch, TA clutch, TA gearbox, 5-speed transmission, differential, final drives. When the main clutch is disconnected everything behind it is disconnected.

Grinding can happen when the wheels are turning the transmission output shaft, or when the engine is turning the engine input shaft. So if you're trying to shift on the fly, it will grind unless you know how to match speeds and finesse it. If you are trying to shift into gear after the tractor has been sitting with the clutch pedal out for any length of time, it will grind until things come to a stop.

If the transmission never stops, you have a problem. In your case the misadjusted clutch pedal tells me that whoever put the clutch in screwed it up somehow and just kept adjusting until it worked, hoping you would not notice.

 

[gaughan30]

So is there any way to check on to see if it is screwed up internally?

 

[Dieselsbest]

Yes if its like 3-4 seconds with the clutch in to stop
grinding thats just the transmission slowing down. If it
never stops grinding no matter how long you hold it in
then theres adjustment or internal problem.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Possibly Disc is distorted from trying to force it
together with the bolts, which requires greater travel
of pressure plate to avoid dragging; or cheap,
sloppy pressure plate with too much lost motion in
the finger joints. Have one of these in my 154.
Cannot set to factory specs, clutch will not release.
It must be set up just like yours is. Zero free play.

 

[the tractor vet]

Well not being the one that did the work here, . The could be's are(1) the flywheel has been ground one tomany times , it was not ground properly , (2) a garbage
pressure late ,(3) like Fritz said improper joining to the ft and rear buy pulling it together and danage to the disc. No you do not want a 1 1/2 freeplay, ya
want no more then 1 inch and 7/8ths is better . As for the T/A adjustment here it becomes a FEEL thing , due to use and age getting it dead on comes from years of
working on them , doing it by the book use to work when they were somewhat new . Now as to gear grind while trying to get it in gear this is a TRACTOR with out a
clutch break with a transmission with out scyro And you just can't snatch it into gear, Best way it to ideal the engine down before you shove the cutch in then
once the engine is slowed down then push the clutch down and ease it into gear . If it is not right then the guy that did the work had best make it right . Not
all that twist wrenches really know what they are doing . Myself i worked on the I H line up and know them inside and out , yep i have worked on other colors but
far from claiming expert level on them and i bow to the guys that are . In my area at one time we had several guys that were the experts on each color and one guy
that was the grand master on balers of all colors .

 

[gaughan30]

I just got done adjusting the clevis to where the clutch will disengage and go into gear just fine, I am familiar with how the transmission works IE no synchros engine speed and free wheeling gears, but light pressure would not slow the gears down to get into gear, I ll attach a photo of what I got for now