660 tie rods

I am gathering parts to rebuild and restore my Grandfather’s 660. Current road block is the tie rods for the front end. Grandpa abused the tractor quite well during his 41 years as owner and both tie rods have been broken and welded. Does anyone know of a replacement that can be used?



Thanks.
 

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I am gathering parts to rebuild and restore my Grandfather’s 660. Current road block is the tie rods for the front end. Grandpa abused the tractor quite well during his 41 years as owner and both tie rods have been broken and welded. Does anyone know of a replacement that can be used?


Thanks.
That is a very nice looking original. I would see if Korves or Maibach tractor has them. If not they will know where to find them
 
I am gathering parts to rebuild and restore my Grandfather’s 660. Current road block is the tie rods for the front end. Grandpa abused the tractor quite well during his 41 years as owner and both tie rods have been broken and welded. Does anyone know of a replacement that can be used?


Thanks.
Just a comment,maybe my personal preference,but I would not even think about painting that tractor. They are only like that once. I would just make sure it is good mechanicaly.
 
I went through this a few years ago with my S66 after I had a tie rod pop off in my driveway after roading it 10 miles. Lucky I'm not dead. The answer is no, nobody was making them. You'll need to find used, or repair, or have a machine shop fab some new ones. They are unique to the S66/660.
 
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I'm with everyone else here. I've also got my grandpa's tractor. The way I look at it, it being unrestored is the way your grandpa had it and that is probably the way that you remember it. If you paint it, the stories are all covered up and hidden.
 
I'm with everyone else here. I've also got my grandpa's tractor. The way I look at it, it being unrestored is the way your grandpa had it and that is probably the way that you remember it. If you paint it, the stories are all covered up and hidden.
If I wanted to remember it the way he had it I would cover it in pigeon poop, rip the sheet metal back off and pile the ether cans on the floor and in the tool box and around the battery and between the clutch housing and transmission.

All I heard my whole life is how that Oliver is junk and he should trade for a 2510 Deere. It sat dead in his barn for years with a bad clutch. It’s been dropped through the ice and into a pond over the muffler twice. It drove through the side of a garage. Ran over a lawnmower. He didn’t change the oil for 14 years. PTO is out because he ran it without oil. One bad axle bearing. Needs brakes.

There are no good memories. I just want it to look good because my Dad used this back when Grandpa bought it in 1968 when it still looked good.
 
I went through this a few years ago with my S66 after I had a tie rod pop off in my driveway after roading it 10 miles. Lucky I'm not dead. The answer is no, nobody was making them. You'll need to find used, or repair, or have a machine shop fab some new ones. They are unique to the S66/660.
That’s what I figured. The ends are good, just the tubes are bad. I’ll see if the local machine shop can make something for me.

Thanks.
 
Me too. It's at least as nice as my barn find 66, if not nicer. Mine looked kind of bad until I took a buffer to it.
Technically not my tractor yet. It’s my dad’s still, he wants it to look how he remembers from when the neighbor bought it off the showroom floor at the local dealer.
 
If I wanted to remember it the way he had it I would cover it in pigeon poop, rip the sheet metal back off and pile the ether cans on the floor and in the tool box and around the battery and between the clutch housing and transmission.

All I heard my whole life is how that Oliver is junk and he should trade for a 2510 Deere. It sat dead in his barn for years with a bad clutch. It’s been dropped through the ice and into a pond over the muffler twice. It drove through the side of a garage. Ran over a lawnmower. He didn’t change the oil for 14 years. PTO is out because he ran it without oil. One bad axle bearing. Needs brakes.

There are no good memories. I just want it to look good because my Dad used this back when Grandpa bought it in 1968 when it still looked good.


Awesome.... that all makes me want to keep it.
 
M
nobody??? I said all that makes ME want to keep it. I wasn't implying you anything.
Makes more sense now.

My grandpa always said he hated this thing, but back then nobody would give him anything for it.

Then my dad got it, but never really liked it.

Then my oldest kid stared to think it was cool so it got shipped to my house and my dad wants it new and perfect, just like when he started driving it. Plus I guess I needed something to do in my “free time”
 
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M

Makes more sense now.

My grandpa always said he hated this thing, but back then nobody would give him anything for it.

Then my dad got it, but never really liked it.

Then my oldest kid stared to think it was cool so it got shipped to my house and my dad wants it new and perfect, just like when he started driving it. Plus I guess I needed something to do in my “free time”
Well, any way that it shakes out, you've got a low production, sought after tractor there.
 
If it were mine, and I agree that it’s not, I would give it a good deep cleaning and buff out. Good coat of carnuba wax and step back and see what you have.

1 day spent cleaning versus weeks of paint prep. I’m too lazy for that.
 
If it were mine, and I agree that it’s not, I would give it a good deep cleaning and buff out. Good coat of carnuba wax and step back and see what you have.

1 day spent cleaning versus weeks of paint prep. I’m too lazy for that.
You are looking at the good side. It’s been on fire twice. There is a lot of paint missing on the other side. Both rear side panels have holes rusted through them. Battery box lid had holes burned through it from the battery hitting it. It looks good from far but it is far from good.

Plus I like making things look good and I’m dang good at it.
 
If you want a functioning front end, there's no need to go whole hog, and spend the moola for "original" tie rods.

If the alignment is acceptable as it sits.............. Measure the distance between the centers of the tie rod ends. This is your target length. Sometimes they have grease zerks on the bottom side.......use those for measurement.

Amble off to your nearest O' Reilly, and pick up some cheap tie rod ends for a 70's model Chevy truck(take the old tie rod to verify the taper on the tie rod end). Then toddle over to your local steel supply, and pick up some 3/4 cold roll 1018 round stock, or something close to the diameter of the existing tie rod. Remove the threaded portion of the tie rod ends, measure carefully, grind for your full pen welds.........and have at it. Remember to orient the tie rod ends correctly.
 
If you want a functioning front end, there's no need to go whole hog, and spend the moola for "original" tie rods.

If the alignment is acceptable as it sits.............. Measure the distance between the centers of the tie rod ends. This is your target length. Sometimes they have grease zerks on the bottom side.......use those for measurement.

Amble off to your nearest O' Reilly, and pick up some cheap tie rod ends for a 70's model Chevy truck(take the old tie rod to verify the taper on the tie rod end). Then toddle over to your local steel supply, and pick up some 3/4 cold roll 1018 round stock, or something close to the diameter of the existing tie rod. Remove the threaded portion of the tie rod ends, measure carefully, grind for your full pen welds.........and have at it. Remember to orient the tie rod ends correctly.
I took the advice of scooter and talked to the local small machine shop. My ends are good so they are making some new heavier center tubes for the middle.$125 for the pair.
 
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