A 7700 is a 6700 with the turbo and all the little differences that they make to the motor in order for it to have a long useful life. You could easily add a turbo to a 6700, but you would not want to have the fuel set too strong. Both tractors are flat deck row crop models.
 
There are many differences between a naturally aspirated and a turboed engine. To do it right, technically, you need different injectors, pistons, rods, bearings, valves, radiator, fan, oil cooler, the list goes on and on. That said, many people simply bolt on a turbo, turn up the fuel, and go. It's not right, but it's what some folks do.
 
I agree with Bern, the turbo engine has a lot of enhancements to make it more durable.

After saying that, I would put a turbo on my 6610 if keeping it, as I only load it intermittently.
 
Had an early production 8700 that could or would not hold its hp. Final dealer
solution was add a turbo. I questioned dealer NOT adding pyrometer. Dealer stated:
Fords don't have a heat problem. 6 hrs after install I was plowing with 5-16 plow.
Engine began having loud knock. Turbo got toooo hot melted/burned seals, raw oil
sucked into #3 piston. It looked like a hot torch distorted it. Short story was I
payed for pyrometer and dealer overhauled tractor. Ran it 2 more years without a
problem. If you add turbo you need pyrometer to observe exhaust temps.
 
(quoted from post at 22:20:13 11/12/20) Had an early production 8700 that could or would not hold its hp. Final dealer
solution was add a turbo. I questioned dealer NOT adding pyrometer. Dealer stated:
Fords don't have a heat problem. 6 hrs after install I was plowing with 5-16 plow.
Engine began having loud knock. Turbo got toooo hot melted/burned seals, raw oil
sucked into #3 piston. It looked like a hot torch distorted it. Short story was I
payed for pyrometer and dealer overhauled tractor. Ran it 2 more years without a
problem. If you add turbo you need pyrometer to observe exhaust temps.


Red Green Guy, I have driven various turbo charged trucks and tractors, wheel loaders etc. My memory is that only one, an R model Mack back in the late '70s had a pyrometer. I also remember that the only time that the exhaust temp got high was on a fairly long steep hill climb when nearing the top and I hadn't shifted to a lower gear because I could see that I was going to make it in the gear that I was in. I suspect that not holding HP meant that your 8700 was worn out, that final solution was really just a "hail Mary" band aid to try to get you off his back, and that you tried to get too much out of a tired old engine that had a turbo added but was not designed for it. I'll bet that you even turned the fuel up to where you were able to see plenty of smoke, since it is just a twist of an external screw, and then blamed the dealer for a little detail item.
 
Customer of mine has a 9700 that has been one powerful, tough tractor. They bought a TW 5 4WD and they were very disappointed with it, so they got a manifold and turbo and turbocharged it. It helped it considerably but it is still not the tractor the 9700 is.
 
Given that those two tractors use pretty much the same engine and drivetrain, they should feel equal in power. If the TW feels weaker, either it was nut turned up to TW25 specs (which was very wise) or the 9700 was turned up beyond its factory spec (not so wise).
 
8700 not worn out. I purchased from Father in law who purchased it new 2 yrs
previous. We were told it was problem with some 8700s. Had less than 1000 hrs when I
purchased it. After overhaul dealer stated timing gears were incorrectly stamped.
Think it was to make a customer feel like a problem was solved. My thought was for
cost of pyrometer it is cheap insurance compared to an overhaul. Just my 2 cents.
 
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