6v 8n side mount won't run

monsterpt

Member
I am tired of rolling 1000# hay bales down to the
pasture. Tractor has not run since before
thanksgiving, and I finally have time to dedicate to
getting it running. After going back to the drawing
board and tearing down the distributor, I found the
problem with setting the timing. The insulator
between the coil wire and the points/condenser was
grounding out (Fixed).

Now she wants to fire but it won't catch and run.
Here is what I've done so far:

1. Checked for gas, opened drain plug and fuel line,
good steady flow from tank to carb.
2. Checked for spark, plug opened to 1/4" shows
spark. Looks good but can't tell for sure in
daylight.
3. Had a leak from the governor housing. Fixed leak
by changing gasket attaching gov to dist housing
around thanksgiving but it cut my max rpms
significantly. Still not sure why.
4. Took the carb off and cleaned. Reassembled with
the same settings I had before cleaning. (Yes, I
checked and rechecked).

Continued problems:

1. Starter cranks and engine fires, but won't run
for more than 10 seconds and it "chugs" the whole
time.
2. Ammeter not registering any charge or drain.
(Replaced - I know, don't throw parts at a problem,
but I wanted the ring and style to match my other
gauges anyway). No change to reading when I changed
it.

Thoughts?
 
"...with setting the timing." Tell us how you did that. It's easy to screw that up w/o the engine running.

What's the point gap?

Plug gap?

Remove the breather hose. Key on, press the starter button (no choke) and spray starting fluid in the carb throat. What happens?
75 Tips
 
Have you checked for problems in the air flow? If the air cleaner is plugged, it will have starting/running problems. Easy to check by disconnecting the hose at the carb.

-Paul
 
Distributor timing side mount

Remove the spark plug from the number one (front) cylinder. Turn the engine over with a finger in the spark plug hole and the ignition switch in the off position until you feel the compression begin to push your finger off the hole. Finish turning the engine over buy hand with the fan or by placing in fourth gear and moving the tractor slowly forward by pushing on the rear wheel until the #1 piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke you’ll need a helper or have long arms to use the wheels to find TDC. Exact TDC can be checked by removing the timing hole cover on the flywheel housing and turning the engine by hand till the TDC mark comes up at the timing window.

Install the distributor into the hole and turn the distributor shaft until the rotor is pointing to the #1 mark on the distributor cap. If the cap has no #1 then just point the rotor to any position on the cap to one of the plug wire holes.

Turn the distributor slightly until the points just open and then back a couple degrees opposite the direction of rotation for the rotor. Direction of rotation for the NAA and up is clockwise.

8N turns counter clockwise. (left)

Install the wires into the cap in the direction of rotation of the rotor as if the engine were running which is counterclockwise and in the firing order for the engine to the appropriate spark plug in firing order.. 8N firing order is 1243

After the engine is running you can turn the distributor right or left until it sounds best. Not labored or skipping. If it pings when under a load then turn the distributor in the direction of the rotation of the rotor slightly. Or if it seems to try to kick back against the starter do the same. The best place is just adjust to the point that it pings and then back the other way until it doesn’t ping under heavy load.

Never mind the timing marks.

Zane
 
Got that part. Did all timing steps per instructions and the manual. Even found the spot where to points open close using ohmmeter. 52 8n is 4* BTDC right?
 
Did disconnect the air hose and tried. Didn't notice much difference. Will try spraying some starter fluid in during start up tomorrow, battery charging now.
 
Point gap and plug gap should both be 0.025. If the plugs are wet then you have a flooded engine and fouled plugs. You need a good steady flow of gas from the carb drain plug at the bottom of the carb not just at the line. Pull the air intake tube off and try to start it. If it then runs good chance the air cleaner is clogged up and needs new oil and the mud dumped out. Also sitting that long you may have sticking rings so doing say a table spoon of ATF in each cylinder sure will not hurt it
 
Points and plugs gapped at .025. Plugs removed, not fouled. Just did routine maint oil changed just before problems started.
 
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