6V positive ground lights

[swhockett]

My 52 8N has a fuse installed in the lighting wiring. With 6V positive ground is that necessary. Lights no longer work and old fuse is dark. If a fuse is necessary (not shown in any wiring diagrams) what amperage would be recommended?

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 11:01:15 10/03/22) My 52 8N has a fuse installed in the lighting wiring. With 6V positive ground is that necessary. Lights no longer work and old fuse is dark. If a fuse is necessary (not shown in any wiring diagrams) what amperage would be recommended?

Good to have a fuse so if you get a short just the fuse is damaged.

I'd look at the number of lights on the circuit and the wattage of the lamps. Add the wattages up. P (watts) = V (volts) X I (amps).

V = 6 solve for I. That is draw in amps. For a fuse go a few amps higher.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

The fuse is necessary, and it was mounted on the oem switch. 15a fuse unless you have a worklight. 20a if you do.
75 Tips

 

[swhockett]

Thanks!

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

...If a fuse is necessary (not shown in any wiring diagrams)... HUH? Where did you look? Do you have your ESSENTIAL MANUALS? 39-52 MPC is a good place to start if not. A 6V battery does not mean the system is wired correctly for the 6V/POS GRN setup. As Bruce(VA) said, the lighting fuse is on the switch. If you blew it, it isn't wired right - should never blow a light switch when wired correctly. The beauty of POS GRN is only one hot wire required, ground is to any metal surface. Guys think they have to wire with two wires and get all tangled up.

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Dean]

Neither fuse nor switch necessary unless you wish the lights to work.

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 06:04:42 10/04/22) Neither fuse nor switch necessary unless you wish the lights to work.

Being sarcastic.....

Oh they will work, just not properly..........connected to battery with a ground they will turn/be on, but you can't shut them off.............they will also "work" without a fuse, but if you get a short it will drain power until the circuit/wire melts/burns or it starts a fire.........

My 9N (6V) came with 2 headlamps and a rear fender lamp. Some of the lamps still had good bulbs, the wires were all missing insulation, switch was burnt out/shorted.

Switch got replaced with a marine grade 20A toggle wired to the hot side of the junction block with an inline marine grade automotive type fuse holder. The wires to the lights all replaced along with needed lamps. Lamp housings were tested for proper ground on hood/fender. Wire connectors were solder type and the connections insulated with shrink wrap.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 06:32:54 10/04/22) The beauty of POS GRN is only one hot wire required, ground is to any metal surface. Guys think they have to wire with two wires and get all tangled up.

what u describe is a function of DC versus AC, and is not related to polarity. negative ground DC systems function the same way.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 11:24:43 10/04/22)

(quoted from post at 06:32:54 10/04/22) The beauty of POS GRN is only one hot wire required, ground is to any metal surface. Guys think they have to wire with two wires and get all tangled up.

what u describe is a function of DC versus AC, and is not related to polarity. negative ground DC systems function the same way.

Electrically AC is no different than DC in that regard. It needs two conductors and it don't care if one is the frame - but you might.

TOH

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 13:36:59 10/04/22)

Electrically AC is no different than DC in that regard. It needs two conductors and it don't care if one is the frame - but you might.

TOH

true enough. insulation is a wonderful thing.

i converted my N back to DC anyway, got tired of mowing the extension cords.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 12:55:54 10/04/22)

(quoted from post at 13:36:59 10/04/22)

Electrically AC is no different than DC in that regard. It needs two conductors and it don't care if one is the frame - but you might.

TOH

true enough. insulation is a wonderful thing.

i converted my N back to DC anyway, got tired of mowing the extension cords.

Good choice - replacing those things gets expensive fast. This thread actually taught me something new today

TOH

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 14:04:47 10/04/22) This thread actually taught me something new today

now i'm curious. is the one on the left an Earth Earth in England?

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Good to have a fuse so if you get a short just the fuse is damaged.
I'd look at the number of lights on the circuit and the wattage of the lamps. Add the wattages up. P (watts) = V (volts) X I (amps).
V = 6 solve for I. That is draw in amps. For a fuse go a few amps higher.

I would use your formula for determining wire size. Current carrying capacity of the wire should be 30% over load. Fuses are sized by the full current capacity of the wire not for device overcurrent protection in a lighting circuit.

 

[Mad Farmer]

(quoted from post at 11:29:01 10/04/22)

Good to have a fuse so if you get a short just the fuse is damaged.
I'd look at the number of lights on the circuit and the wattage of the lamps. Add the wattages up. P (watts) = V (volts) X I (amps).
V = 6 solve for I. That is draw in amps. For a fuse go a few amps higher.

I would use your formula for determining wire size. Current carrying capacity of the wire should be 30% over load. Fuses are sized by the full current capacity of the wire not for device overcurrent protection in a lighting circuit.

Is there a problem using fuses based on lighting load and associated switch ratings for sizing fuses?

I always use wire that is overkill for the amp load/current of the device(s), lighting or otherwise, and take into consideration the length of the wire(s) and voltage drop.

If I'm wrong doing it this way? at least I believe it's still safe.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 14:15:04 10/04/22)

(quoted from post at 14:04:47 10/04/22) This thread actually taught me something new today

now i'm curious. is the one on the left an Earth Earth in England?

You have to think like a Brit - its a Terra Earth :roll:

TOH

 

[HarryVanderpool]

Is there a problem using fuses based on lighting load and associated switch ratings for sizing fuses?

I always use wire that is overkill for the amp load/current of the device(s), lighting or otherwise, and take into consideration the length of the wire(s) and voltage drop.

If I'm wrong doing it this way? at least I believe it's still safe.

You aren't doing anything wrong. And it's safe; extra safe.
Sorry, I was just being an electrical nerd.
You can call me nerd for short!

 

[swhockett]

(quoted from post at 07:13:18 10/04/22)

(quoted from post at 06:04:42 10/04/22) Neither fuse nor switch necessary unless you wish the lights to work.

Being sarcastic.....

Oh they will work, just not properly..........connected to battery with a ground they will turn/be on, but you can't shut them off.............they will also "work" without a fuse, but if you get a short it will drain power until the circuit/wire melts/burns or it starts a fire.........

My 9N (6V) came with 2 headlamps and a rear fender lamp. Some of the lamps still had good bulbs, the wires were all missing insulation, switch was burnt out/shorted.

Switch got replaced with a marine grade 20A toggle wired to the hot side of the junction block with an inline marine grade automotive type fuse holder. The wires to the lights all replaced along with needed lamps. Lamp housings were tested for proper ground on hood/fender. Wire connectors were solder type and the connections insulated with shrink wrap.

Thanks. This is what I have as OEM switch was removed and replaced.

 

[Jim WI]

(quoted from post at 19:30:33 10/04/22)

(quoted from post at 14:15:04 10/04/22)

(quoted from post at 14:04:47 10/04/22) This thread actually taught me something new today

now i'm curious. is the one on the left an Earth Earth in England?

You have to think like a Brit - its a Terra Earth :roll:

TOH

I've also seen the following (first three are more common):
PE = Protective Earth
FE = Functional Earth (formerly TE)
TE = Technical Earth
IE = Instrumentation Earth
LE = Lightning Earth

 

[JMOR]

Nope....left to right, Ground, Shovel, Rake.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 21:30:33 10/04/22)

You have to think like a Brit - its a Terra Earth :roll:

TOH

well, i've already got a head start. i too believe that a gentleman does not motor about after dark, and that the best theft protection is Lucas Electrics.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 20:33:20 10/06/22)

(quoted from post at 21:30:33 10/04/22)

You have to think like a Brit - its a Terra Earth :roll:

TOH

well, i've already got a head start. i too believe that a gentleman does not motor about after dark, and that the best theft protection is Lucas Electrics.

Lucas has been helping gentlemen motor about after dark since the early 1900's. This fine lamp was guaranteed to be blow out proof in a full gale ;-)

TOH

 

[HFJ]

possibly his most effective product?

[size=7:01f571457a]* tailwind matching ground speed required or warranty void[/size:01f571457a]

 

[Hdonly]

Fuses are there to protect the wire. Size a fuse according to the wire size, not the load on it.

 

[Dave G9N]

(quoted from post at 12:53:23 10/04/22)

(quoted from post at 11:29:01 10/04/22)

Good to have a fuse so if you get a short just the fuse is damaged.
I'd look at the number of lights on the circuit and the wattage of the lamps. Add the wattages up. P (watts) = V (volts) X I (amps).
V = 6 solve for I. That is draw in amps. For a fuse go a few amps higher.

I would use your formula for determining wire size. Current carrying capacity of the wire should be 30% over load. Fuses are sized by the full current capacity of the wire not for device overcurrent protection in a lighting circuit.

Is there a problem using fuses based on lighting load and associated switch ratings for sizing fuses?

I always use wire that is overkill for the amp load/current of the device(s), lighting or otherwise, and take into consideration the length of the wire(s) and voltage drop.

If I'm wrong doing it this way? at least I believe it's still safe.

o. The fuse is generally sized to blow before the wire gets hot enough to start a fire, so a smaller fuse that is large enough for the load on the circuit will be fine. It is only there to protect the wire from overheating if the wire is overloaded as with a short. There is only a problem using a fuse that exceeds the wire's amperage rating.