706 gas info needed

[cjrpr]

Hi. I was wondering if someone could
give me the cylinder head torque
spects and sequence? Also the valve
lash size and adjusting procedure? My
IT shop book is only for diesel and I
need info for 706 gas. Thank you.

 

[used red MN]

Surprised no one else has answered. Now take this for what it is worth, there is a spec section in the back of my 1971 copyright ...Motor’s... Truck and Diesel Repair Manual. It gives a cylinder head torque of 90 ft. lbs. I personally would raise that to an even 100. The valve lash is shown as 0.027 Hot. It is essential that the tractor is ran up to operating temperature and then retorque the head bolts. I did a Google search for the sequence diagram and this YT post popped up. I will add a photo of the sequence out of the IH truck section in my manual that matches how Lou laid it out. And the Tractor Vet chimed in on the post so how could it be anything but the gospel if you know what I mean.

2011 YT post on same subject

 

[used red MN]

Here is one way to set the valves. Start with cyl. number 1 on TDC compression, at this point its...running mate.. cylinder number 6 will have its valves in overlap. That is exhaust closing and intake just starting to open. Set the valves on cylinder number 1. Then turn the engine to valve overlap on cylinder 2 shown on the right in the list below and adjust cylinder 5 valves. Continue down the list stopping at valve overlap for the cylinder shown on the right and then adjust the valves on the next cylinder across from it in the firing order on the list on the left. We shall see if any arguments are given over this procedure.

1-6
5-2
3-4
6-1
2-5
4-3

 

[the tractor vet]

Just for your FYI a hot valve set On and I H engine is any temp above 70 Degrees F . By the time you get the whole engine up to operating temp and you fight getting the valve cover off and fight your way down the valves of a HOT engine and making sure your getting a good true set and not bridging while doing it she is cooling down on ya . When installing a head one really wants to run a 1/2 x13 BOTTOMING tap all the way down and flush each hole clean and dry . Look over each head bolt and run a thread chaser over them . Apply a light coat of lube it can be a light oil or as i use white engine assembly grease . Torque in three stages , fist step i run them down to 40 45 Ft. Lbs , next around 70 then i go to 95 Ft.lbs and go over that setting three times as you will find that the center six will be loose , then i do a quick valve set then install the manifold and go over that three times . I perfer to use the Factory VICTOR head gskt due to some of the ones you get in these cheap kits will give you nightmares . I pefer to use copper coat on the head gskt . When setting the valves starting at 1 tdc you do 1,2,3,5,7,and9, turn engine one full turn till #6 is at tdc then do4,6,8,10,11 .and 12.

 

[rustred]

wow, your one of the few that refers to the valve overlap or rocking as I refer to and follow the firing order. I always set valves this way and pretty foolproof. I watch the running mate in the centre of the rocking and this guarantee's the other running mate is on compression. I don't look for timing marks or even remove spark plugs at times. cant argue over the proper procedure. the other procedure is to set half the valves with #1 at tdc on compression. then get the last cyl. #4 or 6 on compression and do the other half. I like my way the best as I feel its more accurate and been setting valves for over forty years this way.

 

[cjrpr]

Thank you for your info. What is the intake and exhaust measurement?

 

[the tractor vet]

.027 , BUT pay close attention to the ware pattern of the rocker arm as they ALL do not set dead on the valve and create a ware pattern and if you just STUFF the feeler gauge under the rocker arm it will BRIDGE the valve stem and give a faulse valve set . So put your glasses on and look close .