706 Gas

[706 Farmall]

What is the correct method to install a New Clutch? What is the Correct method for adjustment once it is installed? This tractor has a T/A? Thanks

 

[Janicholson]

!: purchase a Blue ribbon repair manual.
2: Purchase splitting stands capable of handling a large frame tractor.
3: purchase $3000 MODEST, OR $5000 good tools.
4: get 10 3foot 4X4 hardwood blocks for cribbing, and various thicknesses of shim material.
5: Purchase a 10 ton hydraulic jack.
6: Purchase a clutch kit.
7: purchase a Drive splined tube for the Hydraulics and PTO.
8: Purchase a TA front clutch disc.
9: if a wide front Make wedges to prevent tipping.
10:get experienced assistance for comprehensive mechanical skill.
11:work in a heated garage/shop.
12: assume 75 to 125 on materials, consumables, and cleaning products.
This is an incomplete list and the most critical ingredient is #10.
Jim

 

[used red MN]

Interesting layout Jim gave you and fairly complete. Although number 8 is a little different in this tractor than what I believe he has in mind, which I figure is a the ..mechanical TA.. used in the earlier lower horsepower tractors. His term was a singular ..TA front clutch disc.. You tractor model is essentially one of the first to get the ..hydraulically shifted.. TA. The TA direct clutch in your tractor is a wet clutch pack with steel and lined plates stacked, see parts keyed 43 & 44 in the attached CNHI parts page attached. Parts 20 & 21 are the low side locking plates that allow engine braking in LO or reduction TA. Replacing any of the TA parts in this tractor or really any TA Tractor requires a double split. I will also add a link to a previous post containing a reply by the poster The Tractor Vet, it lays out the method to adjust the TA when you are done and it compensates for linkage wear. He will probably pop in here in person and lay this all out for you again since he has been back lately and likes to add his 50 cents worth to any post that has 706 in the title.
CNHI Farmall 706 parts diagrams

TA adjustment post

 

[used red MN]

Did not double check my links in preview so the one for the TA parts diagram is messed up. It is properly attached here.
CNHI Farmall 706 part diagram

 

[the tractor vet]

what is needed , splitting stands that roll . Block up the rear and split forward . while your in there look hard at the spines on the IDPOT input shaft and if there is Any ware then replace that also . standard hand tools will get the job done . When going back together hang the pressure plate on the IDPTo input shaf then the clutch disc on the trans input shaft and gently slide together then once all together then go up thru the inspection hole and bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel and remover the shipping blocks between the clutch fingers and the pressure plate , Now don't forget that. Now as for adjustment look back into the archives and i have covered this many many times . You also want to have the flywheel refaced by a machine shop . This job takes me around 5-6 hours by my self . Just remove the ft sectio0n of the hood and side panels un hook the throttle linkage , the fuel line tac cable and wiring harness and the two Oil cooler lines and don't mix them up . and the steering lines at the centering valve The bolt will have a 15/16ths head . Leave a top and bottom bolt in the frame rails to support the back of the engine , ya got two 3/4 bolt up ontop sorta hidden under the fuel tank support so in total ya got 8 main frame bolts and the two top bolt . You do not have to remove the fuel tank Move the ft half of the tractor away about four feet to give you some work room . The clutch cross shat will need to come out once your split , the Clutch brake arm needs to come off the right side held on by a C clip and a key . The release fork has two 3/8ths bolts clamping the release fork to the shaft and TWO KEYS that need to come out . , drive the shaft to the left a bit to get to the keys and you will have to twist it a bit to get to them . The pressure plate is held to the fly wheel with six 1/2 inch bolts and a 3/4 socket is needed . When you pull the flywheel keep in mind it is HEAVY and can be vary sharp , ware CLOVES . when going back on it will only go on one way and use a guide stud, when sliding the tractor back together two 5/8ths guide studs really help as you will have to make adjustments as you want it to Slide real easy together till ya have about a 3/8th to 1/2 inch gap that is EVER all the way around then you can LIGHTLY draw it together with the bolts . Then once ya got all the bolts in then go under and bolt up the pressure plate . I would recommend A Hy Capacity standard pressure plate and a four pad disc and ya can get everything you need from them . They were my only supplier i used and in 20+ years i never had and issue with anything from them . Ya want to know about 706's then ask me .

 

[caterpillar guy]

T.V. has it right with just regular hand tools will do the job. I don't own $3000.00 worth of tools if I add them all together and do all that work myself. No splitting stands nor all the stuff. I use a block stack under the rear and then roll the front away with a hoist on the back end of the front half. the components put on the shaves previous to assembly is easier than trying to align all of it at once which is what happens when you slide it all back together. TV's way you just have to align the Pilot bearing to get back together.

 

[the tractor vet]

I forgot one tiny little thing here OLD AGE ya see , ah don't forget to drain the rad down about half way and remove the Temp sensor lead , at times they can be a total bear , and if yours is still working ya sure don't want to screw that up . It can be a little hard to get out and even get a wrench on and here i found that a 5/8ths Crows foot works best and some really good panther pee . myself i use Zep as over the 54 years of wrench twisten this is the top dog and i have tried them all . If your going to start playen with tonka toys and DIY stuff and your a half decent welder and fabber then set down take the time and BUILD yourself a set of splitting stands , some 2x2x1/4 box and some good heavy 4-6 inch STEEL wheels and two Bulldog implement screw jacks will make up a great splitting stand and make it adjustable for width also that can be just a slide type with a couple locking bolts for that ya need a 2 1/4 box piece for the 2 inch to slide inside of . I am not good at posting pictures or i would post the ones i have carried on the service truck for years and even when i don't have a nice CONCRETE floor to work on i have two 6 foot long 4 inch channel iron that i can lay down for a track and ya don't need a 20 ton jack and 8 tonner is more then enough just block the back tires well. I have never owned a 20 ton even when i was running coal buckets and was hauling way overloaded , now granted there were a FEW times that it took my 12 ton and a 20 ton to lift one side up when we had a flat of blow out because we were being a vary bad boy and had a CHARGE on.

 

[706 Farmall]

Thanks for all the comments, when it warms up a bit I may have more questions.