706 sleeve puller

[truckerlary]

I have a 706 with a 291 gas engine that I need to change one sleeve in. I don't have a puller so is there another safe way to remove the old sleeve without destroying the block. I have heard about the welding a bead up the side of the sleeve but don't want all the slag in the engine that this would create. Also heard about taking a torch and running a hotspot from the bottom to the top. I tried jacking it out but nothing moved. Any suggestions?

 

[rustred]

Well time for your welding skills.

 

[Dieseltech]

On tight Perkins dry sleeves four or five weld beads loosens them after they cool. One bead is not enough.

 

[caterpillar guy]

Can make a sleeve puller fairly easy . You'll need it for future tractors anyway.

 

[the tractor vet]

I will say this don't burn thru as they are pretty thin and ever so easy to damage the block. Do not use 6010 or 6011 and ya had best be able to READ THE PUDDLE . Payen a machine shop to make you a slug will cost less then a double bore and a repair sleeve.

 

[used red MN]

Find a tin can that fits the ID of the sleeve fairly well. Cut it down to almost just a lid. Turn the crank throw up in that cylinder and cover with a rag. Then place whatever blocking is needed to hold the can end at the bottom of the cylinder. Seal between the can and sleeve with modeling clay and weld away. Maybe put a larger bead bump on each side to drive against if needed. The MIG process ..wire and gas.. is best minimizes weld residue. Wire brush and vac out before pulling the can end. Turn throw back to bottom before driving sleeve out. Agree with getting a puck turned as being the best approach.

 

[truckerlary]

Ended up making a puck and went underneath with a jack. Took my torch and lightly warmed the sleeve in on spot from top to bottom and it popped right loose. was able to jack it the rest of they out without heating anymore. The only reason I needed it out was that it had a 1 inch crack about 2 inches down from the top. Checked it after I had it out and the crack wasn't clear through to the outside. Kind of puzzling. Thanks for everyones help. This is a tractor that my dad had about 20 years ago that was sold in the farm sale. I had tried to buy it from the original buyer but he wouldn't sell. Kind of last track until a couple weeks ago when a friend informed me its whereabouts.A tractor jockey had bought it and had taken some parts off it. I'm now in the process of finding parts and putting it back together.

 

[truckerlary]

 

[the tractor vet]

Good luck as we have had nothing but bad luck on the gassers now for a while . at one time i sold a ton of them and some of my best friends bought them and used the heck out of them TILL we were no longer abble to get the gas to run them on and inturn started melting down pistons and scoring sleeves . Last C291 i rebuilt ran great for a little over a year before the gas change came on . My buddy dumped that one at a local consignment sale and we have one setting in the fence row that was a good tractor with a new T/A clutch new 175 gallon Hyd pump good set of 18.4x3 Firestone radials wide ft. and three point with one piston out of it and i am done putting pistons and sleeves in it . Our gassers were the go to tractors for all winter work like grinding feed two three times a week , moving round bales , hauling manure . Plowing snow . They ran every day . When we could get the gas . They loved the good stuff they do not like the Cheap stuff .

 

[truckerlary]

This will be just a memory tractor. Probably never will be worked hard. One of our local stations has 90 octane gas without ethanol. Push come to shove could probably use that if going to work the tractor.

 

[the tractor vet]

I can tell ya this it might be ok for riding around Just don't work it ---------- at all.

 

[KFFarm]

Whats that fence row tractor worth?