My lift cylinder hose is busted on my 750 Backhoe. It was easily detached at the lift arm end, but I just cant detach it from the control valve end. I removed the tractor seat and the floor, I'm in front of the swing pressure adjustment valve and I sure see the 1 1/4in. vertical fitting of the hose I must detach but there aint any room for my wrench to get there, let alone turning it to loosen the fitting. Am I missing something here ? Is there a special «thin» 1 1/4 wrench that must be used ? Should I remove all hose fittings until I can make sufficient room for the one I need to take off ?
plowjockey
Member
I have not had to do it yet on my hoe, but DB, who is an equipment genius, says it's all about the crows foot wrenches.
Make sure to label all the hoses (both ends) and where they go before you get them mixed up.
If any more of them look flaky, better to do them all at once than to have to tear it down again.
I made some "flare nut wrenches" by cutting out part of the box end on some combination wrenches, then cut the length of the wrenches in half so I could maneuver them. It was worth many times the cost of those wrenches not to have to buy special wrenches from Snap-On or other specialty supplier.
Myron
If any more of them look flaky, better to do them all at once than to have to tear it down again.
I made some "flare nut wrenches" by cutting out part of the box end on some combination wrenches, then cut the length of the wrenches in half so I could maneuver them. It was worth many times the cost of those wrenches not to have to buy special wrenches from Snap-On or other specialty supplier.
Myron
Yes, you basically have to move from the outside inwards, taking off all the hoses to get to to the middle hoses on the control valve - it's miserable. Think long and hard about the condition of all the other hoses (I blew a dipperstick hose and replaced both dipperstick hoses and both bucket hoses - left the lift hoses as they were obviously much newer.)
You need to keep track of which is which, and you need to keep them clean in a place that is not very clean, usually. I used a lot of aluminum foil and colored rubber bands.
A bag of 100 O-rings from MSC or McMaster for the control valve connection was considerably cheaper than 8 or 10 "tractor parts" individually part-numbered and bagged from the dealer. I replaced every one I had to take off on general principles - they were 35 years old at minimum.
You need to keep track of which is which, and you need to keep them clean in a place that is not very clean, usually. I used a lot of aluminum foil and colored rubber bands.
A bag of 100 O-rings from MSC or McMaster for the control valve connection was considerably cheaper than 8 or 10 "tractor parts" individually part-numbered and bagged from the dealer. I replaced every one I had to take off on general principles - they were 35 years old at minimum.
There's a similar thread with photos [u:6f917072ff]here[/u:6f917072ff]. I did this last year and was too cheap to replace my boom hoses while I was changing the others. Guess what I'm doing this week?
I bought the $28 flare nut wrench. It's unused because it's still too fat for most of the connections and the open end doesn't fit around the hose once they've been pressurized.
From the helpful commentators on this forum, I made these:
I wouldn't be able to do the job at all without them. Some here say to remove all of the hoses from outside in. I don't know if they're referring to the smaller hoses, but usually they don't need to be removed, unless you're replacing them. They're also a pain to remove since they don't have a swivel joint.
I bought the $28 flare nut wrench. It's unused because it's still too fat for most of the connections and the open end doesn't fit around the hose once they've been pressurized.
From the helpful commentators on this forum, I made these:
I wouldn't be able to do the job at all without them. Some here say to remove all of the hoses from outside in. I don't know if they're referring to the smaller hoses, but usually they don't need to be removed, unless you're replacing them. They're also a pain to remove since they don't have a swivel joint.
kkl,
You made your wrenches EXACTLY like I did, with the exception that I got "perfectionist" and rounded the ends of the cut wrenches a bit.
I was also lucky enough to find some industrial grade wrenches at a flea market for cheap. I was prepared to start cutting up my Craftsman wrenches if necessary and it still would have been cheaper than buying the specialty tools for the job.
Any way you do it is a PIA, since you have to "take it all off", and only can turn one flat at a time.
You can bet that I saved those wrenches, but hope I don't have to do that chore again.
Myron
You made your wrenches EXACTLY like I did, with the exception that I got "perfectionist" and rounded the ends of the cut wrenches a bit.
I was also lucky enough to find some industrial grade wrenches at a flea market for cheap. I was prepared to start cutting up my Craftsman wrenches if necessary and it still would have been cheaper than buying the specialty tools for the job.
Any way you do it is a PIA, since you have to "take it all off", and only can turn one flat at a time.
You can bet that I saved those wrenches, but hope I don't have to do that chore again.
Myron
Myron, you're absolutely correct that rounding the corners is better. It's on my "to do" list, you know, the one that you never get around to.
I downloaded the parts diagram from New Holland and color-coded the six primary backhoe lines. This might help somebody who gets them mixed up accidentally (like me, thinking for sure I'll remember something, then forget it five minutes later). On my hoe, the [color=blue:1e0e339da5]boom[/color:1e0e339da5] hoses are opposite compared to this diagram; I don't know if the diagram is wrong or mine is "wired" backwards.
I downloaded the parts diagram from New Holland and color-coded the six primary backhoe lines. This might help somebody who gets them mixed up accidentally (like me, thinking for sure I'll remember something, then forget it five minutes later). On my hoe, the [color=blue:1e0e339da5]boom[/color:1e0e339da5] hoses are opposite compared to this diagram; I don't know if the diagram is wrong or mine is "wired" backwards.
Myron,
I certainly agree that working on the hydraulic hoses is easier with the backhoe off, but do you have any secrets for getting the quick couplers connected/disconnected. Mine are a nightmare. Even after letting the thing sit overnight, moving all of the levers back and forth to try to relieve pressure, and my wife and I pushing and pulling as hard as possible, these connectors don't want to come apart. So we dink around for an hour, then suddenly the connection just pops apart, and there doesn't really seem to be any pressurized fluid. They look to be in good shape, with no rust, and all the little metal balls are movable. I've used all kinds of lubricant on them. They're just a royal pain. For me, there's nothing quick about them, and I can't even get them unscrewed from the hose ends. Anyone know the secret that makes this easier?
kkl,
It has been probably over 20 years since I did my hoses, but I don't remember any of them having quick connectors, and I don't see any in the schematic. Just the screw on nuts and such.
I can take a look at the machine to see, but I just don't remember that type of connector on anything.
Myron
It has been probably over 20 years since I did my hoses, but I don't remember any of them having quick connectors, and I don't see any in the schematic. Just the screw on nuts and such.
I can take a look at the machine to see, but I just don't remember that type of connector on anything.
Myron
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