I have a shingle mill that I use at our local farm show and demonstrate cutting wooden shingles and then pass them out as souvenirs. It has a 6 flat belt pulley and I lost the use of the 6 belt that I was using to power it. I have a chance to buy a new never used 8 belt. But the mill has a guide on one side of the pulley so the belt can't run off on one side. ( It has to be there and can't be moved because of grease lines going to different fittings Ect.) My question is can I use a 8 belt on a 6 pulley or will it try to center itself or start walking and rub on the guide or try to run itself off. I know a belt always walks to the high side of a pulley and because my 6 pulley is crowned in the middle will this work or not. If not I'll keep looking for a good 6 belt. Thanks Gerald
- Thread starter gmccool
- Start date
Richard G.
Well-known Member
It should work.
If it rides too close to the guide, I drive a piece of pipe in the ground and it will keep it where you need it.
I have been using flat belts all my life.
If it rides too close to the guide, I drive a piece of pipe in the ground and it will keep it where you need it.
I have been using flat belts all my life.
Geo-TH,In
Well-known Member
Call Coldwell Bearings in TH, They make new belts.
Extra Phones
Fax: (812) 235-2870
(812) 232-0276
TollFree: (800) 844-0276
Payment methodAmex, Master Card, VisaNeighborhoodLiberty AvenueAKA
Coldwell & Co Inc
Other Link
http://www.coldwellco.com
Coldwell is my go to place in Terre Haute for bearings and hydraulic hoses
Extra Phones
Fax: (812) 235-2870
(812) 232-0276
TollFree: (800) 844-0276
Payment methodAmex, Master Card, VisaNeighborhoodLiberty AvenueAKA
Coldwell & Co Inc
Other Link
http://www.coldwellco.com
Coldwell is my go to place in Terre Haute for bearings and hydraulic hoses
RCP
Well-known Member
- Location
- Grove City Pa
Richard, I do not use flat belts, but it seems like the belt would stretch unevenly where it is over the edge of the pulley?
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
The belts should not be under so much tension that they stretch.
Richard G.
Well-known Member
He is only going to be 1 inch on each side.
Will not be that bad.
They don't have to be super tight anyway.
Will not be that bad.
They don't have to be super tight anyway.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
It could be cut down.
Use a sheetrock knife, clamp a framing square along the edge, cut along the inside edge of the square.
Use a sheetrock knife, clamp a framing square along the edge, cut along the inside edge of the square.
Paul Janke
Member
My uncle said that he cut a leather wide belt into two narrow belts. The belt was slightly longer down the center so it did not work. It probably would have worked to cut the same amount off of each side.
Every body, you are all fortgetting one thing, Unlerss he is powereing it with a large steemer the drive will also be a 6 inch pully and a lot of tractors have a guide on as well to keep belt from hitting tractor, that means it would be riding off center on both pullys. Now an 8 belt is also going to be thicker fot those 100 horse power steemers with larger diameter pullys that the belt will not want to work correctly on a tractor size pully.. And in ant case it is going to destroy the belt running against that guide on the shingle mill all ith time trying to center itself. Will eventially tear up the edge of the belt running against that guide as well as destroying that guide. FORGET ABOUT TRYING TO USE THAT 8 INCH BELT FOR THAT UNLESS YOU WANT TO RUIN IT PLUS THE SHINGLE MACHINE AND THOSE SHINGLE MACHINES ARE NOT MADE STRONG ENOUGH TO STAND THE PULL IT WOULD TAKE TO TIGHTEN THAT 8 INCH BELT. The belt you will want is only a quarter inch thick while that 8 inch will be at least 3/8 inch and that is way to thick for a light duty as the shingle mill is. Years ago I got some 8 inch belting with other items can't now rember what. I had use for 5 or 6 inch belt so I gave the 8 inch to local tractor the use 8 inch every year to power threshers and a saw mill with steem. I think the show is close to one member on here in North East Indiana. That 8 inch belt should be selling for the price of 3 new 6 inch belts. And yes they can be cut to remove a dammaged section unless it is an endless belt that cannot be cut without ruining it. And belts are only made to run in one direction and it will be marked on the belt the direction to run it. Andyou buy a new spliced belt for a certain length, now you need to add 3 more feet for an endless belt to allow for the splice to have a usable belt. And you try to use a canvas belt on a small less than 6 inch pully it will totally destroy the belt. We did that before knowing what it would do. A 5 inch belt is large enough for that shingle mill
redforlife
Well-known Member
Pulleys are crowned in the center to aid in the belting centering itself while being run. If the 8 inch belt could be made to run with only 1 inch extra overhanging both sides of pulley, it'd probably work. But it's not going to work with 2 inches extra all over hanging one side of the pulley.
I can't hardly imagine a run off guide being so close to the pulley that it won't allow for the belt being
off even one inch. But, I believe ya I guess, if you say its like that. I'm guessing it's so that a thrown belt is impossible to come off the shaft side of the pulley for safety concerns. But that's neither here nor there. You either got some space to work with there, or you don't. Not even one inch, I'd say you don't have any space to work with.
These belts, once commonly used, are getting harder to find. But finding one is not impossible. Your just going to have to dig a little deeper in finding one. Any thrashing bee or steam engine guys in your area would be able to steer you in the right direction. Or, more than likely have an extra one they'd sell ya. Especially if you told them you were a mill demonstrater. Don't be surprised if you get invited to thier functions. So would be a plus plus and to your benefit if your belt search took you in that vary direction.
I can't hardly imagine a run off guide being so close to the pulley that it won't allow for the belt being
off even one inch. But, I believe ya I guess, if you say its like that. I'm guessing it's so that a thrown belt is impossible to come off the shaft side of the pulley for safety concerns. But that's neither here nor there. You either got some space to work with there, or you don't. Not even one inch, I'd say you don't have any space to work with.
These belts, once commonly used, are getting harder to find. But finding one is not impossible. Your just going to have to dig a little deeper in finding one. Any thrashing bee or steam engine guys in your area would be able to steer you in the right direction. Or, more than likely have an extra one they'd sell ya. Especially if you told them you were a mill demonstrater. Don't be surprised if you get invited to thier functions. So would be a plus plus and to your benefit if your belt search took you in that vary direction.
My uncle said that he cut a leather wide belt into two narrow belts. The belt was slightly longer down the center so it did not work. It probably would have worked to cut the same amount off of each side.
I have a feeling that the above case was probably a used belt that had been run pulleys with the high center. In this case if its a new belt AND it lays flat you can cut off one side to get a 6 belt If it has rise in the middle (meaning it probably has been used - even if only a little) I would seriously look at cutting an inch off both sides.
I have a feeling that the above case was probably a used belt that had been run pulleys with the high center. In this case if its a new belt AND it lays flat you can cut off one side to get a 6 belt If it has rise in the middle (meaning it probably has been used - even if only a little) I would seriously look at cutting an inch off both sides.
If you are looking at a fabric or endless belt cutting it down won't work well. For starters Canvas belts have the fabric folded over on the sides and cutting that off will cause it to unravel. Also most endless belts have a crown in the belt also.
In the past when we had a round baler I kept the old belts off it and that made for some good 4 inch and I used the 10 inch belts for material to cut down. Did that on a table saw just don't do it in the house SWMBO won't be happy about the odor.
jm2cw
jt
In the past when we had a round baler I kept the old belts off it and that made for some good 4 inch and I used the 10 inch belts for material to cut down. Did that on a table saw just don't do it in the house SWMBO won't be happy about the odor.
jm2cw
jt
rustred
Well-known Member
yes that is correct , cutting the belt will not work and also when left rubbing on a guard the edge of the belt will get damaged. that was a very important factor in the lining up. u can be off very slighty but not much. not to brag but in this picture i drove up to the crusher put the belt on and backed up and called it good. this was my first belt line up in around 30 years. we also used to have belt lining up contest at the tractor show with my thrashing machine. some people u get tired of watching them trying and trying, lol.
gene bender
Well-known Member
You are correct the belt will be too wide you need a 6 inch belt
gene bender
Well-known Member
What tractors had a guide except the JD
gene bender
Well-known Member
THEN HAVE THE EDGE OF THE BELT RUNNING AGAINST THE PIPE AND FRAYING THE EDGE OF THE BELT
redforlife
Well-known Member
LOL. Some people have a natural nack for it, some people couldn't do it if they had to.
I usually will loop it on the driven pulley, and unroll it completely. Then pull it hand tight and make straight line adjustments. Then lower it down to laying on the ground. Drive the driver pulley over the belt. Hook it up, (with a twist if needed), and back up for tightness. The worst I have seen usually entails someone not even un-rolling the belt to use it as a guide to line the tractor up. People somehow think they can use the belt as a guide once it's been pulley'd on both pulleys. And it don't work that way.
And yes, they'll run if your slightly off. The longer the belt, the bigger margin for error.
Seen a couple yay who's on you tube belt pulley starting a tractor. The tittle to thier video should of been (How NOT to line up a belt). They eventually got the tractor started (by accident it seemed). But they sure didn't learn anything about lining up a belt through making thier own video.
I usually will loop it on the driven pulley, and unroll it completely. Then pull it hand tight and make straight line adjustments. Then lower it down to laying on the ground. Drive the driver pulley over the belt. Hook it up, (with a twist if needed), and back up for tightness. The worst I have seen usually entails someone not even un-rolling the belt to use it as a guide to line the tractor up. People somehow think they can use the belt as a guide once it's been pulley'd on both pulleys. And it don't work that way.
And yes, they'll run if your slightly off. The longer the belt, the bigger margin for error.
Seen a couple yay who's on you tube belt pulley starting a tractor. The tittle to thier video should of been (How NOT to line up a belt). They eventually got the tractor started (by accident it seemed). But they sure didn't learn anything about lining up a belt through making thier own video.
flying belgian
Well-known Member
I don't have any experience running a flat belt other then the nightmare I have in trying to keep the draper belts centered on my swather but it seams like his pipe in ground idea would work if pipe was positioned where the twist in the belt was so it is rubbing on the flat of the belt.
Regarding your shingles: A number of years ago, our club was making shingles on a mill.
A brand inspector friend and I were messing around and started branding them. People went crazy
over those shingles!!! People would line up and wait for an hour for us to brand them!!!
Eventually we would develop a new brand every year. Not cattle brands, but one was a windmill,
another was a steam engine, a plow, a bundle wagon, a crawler tractor, plus we put the year
on each one. Turned out to be one of our better money-making things!!
Every once in a while, someone would come by and ask us to brand a shingle with his brand.
We would have them draw the brand, them tell them to come back in a while.
We had enough irons we could make most anything. We even had a running iron for the hard parts!!
the brands were usually 3 x 4-6 depending on what it was.
A brand inspector friend and I were messing around and started branding them. People went crazy
over those shingles!!! People would line up and wait for an hour for us to brand them!!!
Eventually we would develop a new brand every year. Not cattle brands, but one was a windmill,
another was a steam engine, a plow, a bundle wagon, a crawler tractor, plus we put the year
on each one. Turned out to be one of our better money-making things!!
Every once in a while, someone would come by and ask us to brand a shingle with his brand.
We would have them draw the brand, them tell them to come back in a while.
We had enough irons we could make most anything. We even had a running iron for the hard parts!!
the brands were usually 3 x 4-6 depending on what it was.
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
Yeah, but I expect that it was never intended for the belt to ride on the guide ALL the time... It's just there to protect things "just in case."
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy