The neighbor's 8000 that I'm working on runs much better now - five out of six of the injection pump plunger return springs were broken although only one was broken to the point where it would not return the plunger. I dropped the tappet spacers into the pump so ended up having to take the whole pump apart, but it was a good opportunity to clean it up more. Next project is to replace a missing dust cap on a front hub, but after getting it apart I see that the threads on the spindle are about shot, and the cotter pin was doing a lot of the work holding the wheel on. I've seen the split lock nuts for sale in the past that supposedly will grip worn threads better, but I'm not having much luck finding them for sale anymore other than one on ebay a few days ago. Do they work at all? Anyone know where I could find a 7/8"-14? $800 for a new spindle is out of the question, I'm sure. Thanks!
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Go to a machine shop and have one cut if you can't find a nut at an industrial supply or Fastenall.
Personally... I'd probably just push the nut up as tight as I could and put a few dabs of 7018 on the spindle to prevent it from moving. Ran one for years and years like that on a 5610.
Rod
Personally... I'd probably just push the nut up as tight as I could and put a few dabs of 7018 on the spindle to prevent it from moving. Ran one for years and years like that on a 5610.
Rod
Rod,
I was thinking of the sort of tapered nut where a second outer nut when tightened causes the inner part to compress around the threads. Saw them in Central Tractor years ago, but never tried one. I hate to weld it up, but I suppose it isn't like the spindle is much good anyway. Beats having the wheel fall off too.
I was thinking of the sort of tapered nut where a second outer nut when tightened causes the inner part to compress around the threads. Saw them in Central Tractor years ago, but never tried one. I hate to weld it up, but I suppose it isn't like the spindle is much good anyway. Beats having the wheel fall off too.
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
How in the world did that thing even run with 5 out of 6 springs broken? Usually when a spring breaks that cylinder is dead.
Bern,
Only one spring was broken in two places to the point where it wasn't forcing the plunger back. The other four had the last coil broken, so they still had some compression left. I wonder how many hours are on this thing. The badly broken spring had been gone for a while, as it dug up the spring nest on the plunger head a little. My neighbor bought it a couple years ago, and I'm not sure if it ever ran well since he has had it. When he did some round baling for me last fall I heard how bad it really was and offered to look at it. All four injectors popped off early too, and one had a plugged hole. It's also missing 4th/8th gears, but I'm not sure that is worth undertaking at this point. I could mess with this for a year and still have more to do on it.
Only one spring was broken in two places to the point where it wasn't forcing the plunger back. The other four had the last coil broken, so they still had some compression left. I wonder how many hours are on this thing. The badly broken spring had been gone for a while, as it dug up the spring nest on the plunger head a little. My neighbor bought it a couple years ago, and I'm not sure if it ever ran well since he has had it. When he did some round baling for me last fall I heard how bad it really was and offered to look at it. All four injectors popped off early too, and one had a plugged hole. It's also missing 4th/8th gears, but I'm not sure that is worth undertaking at this point. I could mess with this for a year and still have more to do on it.
JAC FARMING
Member
i got some spindles but the thing is im not sure i want to sell them. they are the key way kind on the parts 1 and the 1s on the good tractor are are screw on kind. so sorry that i cant sell those. but worhting ton ag parts or real cheap or try external_link. ive used real heavy nails to hold them on when treads are wore like that. is there any metal left to re thread it.
Bern
Well-known Member
- Location
- Mount Vernon, WA
The missing 4-8 is likely a broken shift fork. Even worse news is that it's the last part to come out of that trans!
TSC did have the nuts available.
another option is to shrink the oem nut with a bead welded around it's circumference.. then ground flat to put a wrench on.
other options are to grind the threads and recut next standard undersize.. or weld them up then recut standard.
I've used all those techniques at one time or another all with good results. some just took more work than others.
soundguy
another option is to shrink the oem nut with a bead welded around it's circumference.. then ground flat to put a wrench on.
other options are to grind the threads and recut next standard undersize.. or weld them up then recut standard.
I've used all those techniques at one time or another all with good results. some just took more work than others.
soundguy
Brian Allen
Well-known Member
lfc
Try squeezing the nut in a heavy/large vise; it just needs enough to grip the threads that are left.
Brian
Try squeezing the nut in a heavy/large vise; it just needs enough to grip the threads that are left.
Brian
Squeezing the nut will work? I'll try it, but I think the spot welds might be the easiest solution. The rest of the tractor doesn't warrant any extra machine work, I'm sorry to say!
I did find one of those nuts on an old ebay listing, and wrote to the company shown on the instruction sheet in the listing. They wrote back that they no longer make them, so maybe they didn't work so well.
Thanks again everyone for the help.
I did find one of those nuts on an old ebay listing, and wrote to the company shown on the instruction sheet in the listing. They wrote back that they no longer make them, so maybe they didn't work so well.
Thanks again everyone for the help.
they work just fine. .. so far it seems you are basing your opinion of them on one manufacturer not producing them?
try tisco or sparex.. one of them is liekly the maker for the ones at tsc.
I have a rowcrop with 2 repair nuts on it right now.. holding just fine.
welding on the nut will shrink it.
id' not spot weld it on.. no way to adjust the bearing clearance. better to rethread..
soundguy
try tisco or sparex.. one of them is liekly the maker for the ones at tsc.
I have a rowcrop with 2 repair nuts on it right now.. holding just fine.
welding on the nut will shrink it.
id' not spot weld it on.. no way to adjust the bearing clearance. better to rethread..
soundguy
I think I'd be worried about loose bearing preload... perhaps weld the circumference of the nut then grind so a wrench will go on it.. then torque down to get bearing snug, then a blip of weld..
of course if he has a welder, then a 21$ tap and die kit from the chinese tool store and about a half hour of work will make it a moot point as he will have new threads and just need a good nut to fit it.
I'm no machinist, nor even a great welder.. but have done it before with results that are still 'driving' around the pasture today.. easy to remove with no die grinder too..
soundguy
of course if he has a welder, then a 21$ tap and die kit from the chinese tool store and about a half hour of work will make it a moot point as he will have new threads and just need a good nut to fit it.
I'm no machinist, nor even a great welder.. but have done it before with results that are still 'driving' around the pasture today.. easy to remove with no die grinder too..
soundguy
once the weld hits it, it might make a difference. that and a good set of die's.. not the cheap grey junky ones from harbor freight either.
That's one set of tools I actually invested in good for.. taps and dies.. anndout 5 different sets including pipe and metric, / sae fines and coarse, plus a set of odd mini and machine taps..
good stuff to have for sure..
soundguy
That's one set of tools I actually invested in good for.. taps and dies.. anndout 5 different sets including pipe and metric, / sae fines and coarse, plus a set of odd mini and machine taps..
good stuff to have for sure..
soundguy
Brian Allen
Well-known Member
lfc
When you squeeze the nut, only put at most 1/4 of it in the vise. one end should be left round to start on the spindle.
What you end up with is basically a locking nut.
Brian
When you squeeze the nut, only put at most 1/4 of it in the vise. one end should be left round to start on the spindle.
What you end up with is basically a locking nut.
Brian
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