801 12v conversion wiring problems

[Garycw]

after recently purchasing a ford 801,i"m having problems getting a 801 wiring conversion wired back correctly after mice or something has chewed off wires from alternator. I recieved a wiring diagram from johnLA and advice from soundguy,but still having problems. My alternator has a two wire plug on top and a terminal stud on the rear side. in looking at the diagram sent, i"m trying to determine if the rear side stud is labeled "batt" the top terminal closest to that stud 2/s an the top terminal farthest away fron rear stud labeled 1/f in the diagram?
Can the the the "batt" and 2/s conections be jumpered right at the alternator.Also can this connection be wired directly to the + battery post or does it need to go to relay first?
Can the terminal labeled 1/f be ran through warning light then directly to one side of key switch or does it need to be connected esewhere?
I thought in had it working a couple times, but did not have warning light and after running for about 30 min. the toggle switch which has replaces the key switch would not turn off tractor. I think i understand now that the warning light or diode has to be inplace to prevent backfeeding voltage.
Sorry fo all the confusion,i;m just having trouble tracing the wires out.

 

[Bob]

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/424IH/Alternator%20Stuff/AlternatorHarnesssd.jpg">

<img src = "http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/27Grainfield/424IH/Alternator%20Stuff/AlternatorHarness31.jpg">

 

[old]

Bobs picture pretty much says it all but you can also run the wire from the #1 terminal to the ignition side of the coil which is what I do on a lot of them because it saves on wire and less some times is more so mice have less to eat on LOL

 

[Bob]

Let's be clear, though... if saving wire and getting "excite" power for the #1 terminal from the ignition switch side of the coil, the "idiot light" or diode or a resistor MUST be used in that wire or the engine won't shut down when the ignition is switched "off".

 

[Garycw]

Yes, I found that the hard way after backing bushhog into barn and swarmed by yellow jackets. Trying to make a hasty escape the tractor wouldn"t shut off. Had to use the choke to shut down. I was going to use a diode and a light both.

 

[Garycw]

Thanks old,
I will probly do that for now since the toggle switch being used for key is very hard to reach. I tried to take back of dash off for access and got all bolts out except for the two top screws. I will work on later and put new wiring harness and key switch when I take the hood off to paint this winter.

 

[Garycw]

When I take this shortcut from alternator to coil, I would run through resistor first, correct?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 07:23:13 06/22/10) When I take this shortcut from alternator to coil, I would run through resistor first, correct?

f you have a ballast resistor between the ignition switch &amp; the coil, then the "short cut" is a bad idea....just forget it &amp; wire the diode/lamp feeding the alternator excite/#1 terminal directly to ignition switch.

 

[Pete Hall]

Can the diode in the picture becovered with heat srink ?
Also when you say the loaded side of the ignition switch whitch side is this?I know these are stupid quetions but im not a electrician and want clarification.
Thanks guys!

 

[Garycw]

The diode can have heat shrink or electrical tape. The load side of switch is the side going through ballast resister to coil

 

[old]

Would you believe it will work on either side of the resister. On most I just hook right to the top of the coil since it has a bolt on hook up so you have one less splice in the wires

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:40:10 06/22/10) Would you believe it will work on either side of the resister. On most I just hook right to the top of the coil since it has a bolt on hook up so you have one less splice in the wires

ith a lamp limiting the excite current to a few milliamps, I can see it working on either side of resistor, as a few milliamps through a, say 1 ohm resistor only drops a few millivolts, however, WITH A DIODE, the excite current will initially be 3 amperes, resulting in 3 volts loss across that same 1 ohm and add to that 4 amps of coil current and you end up with 5.5 volts loss and only 6.5 volts at the coil, where otherwise you would see 8 volts at same coil. Will it start just fine like that? I guess if you say so.

 

[Garycw]

if everythings hooked up correctly and working properly and the tractor running,I should be able to remove the negitive battery terminal and the tractor should stay running..correct?