801 won't start

marty

Member
Help! After cleaning the fuel system(gas), Rebuilding carb, replacing plugs, wires and condenser, cap and rotor look fine. Tractor would start and run fine at idle speed. Give it some gas or put it under a load and it will backfire and die. Thus the reason for the above mentioned work. I replaced the point"s, gap at .026, and now it won"t start at all. When it tries to it backfires very loudly thru the exaust. Any suggestion"s or advice? Thanks.
 
#1 try gaping the points at 0.025 and make sure it is that on all 4 lobes.
#2 once you do that check that when you open and close the points you can both see and hear a spark. Some new points have a coating on them to protect them.
#3 do you have the rotor spring clip in place??
#4 check your spark. It needs to be a blue/white and jump a 1/4 inch gap.
#5 when you replaced the plug wires are you sure you got them back on the exact same way they where because you all you did was pull and install you have the firing order out and that will cause that problems.
 
I gapped points @ 025,026,and027 all with the same results. #2. Before changing the points, I started the tractor, it ran fine at idle speed. I shut it off,changed the point's and nothing but backfire. this all took place in about 10 min. or less. #3. I do have a strong spark at the point's I can see when turning the motor over. I'm at wit's end on this one. Oh yes, the wires and firing order are correct.
 
pull a spark plug wire and hold it near a good clean ground and crank the starter. You should see a good strong blue/white spark that jumps at least a 1/4" gap from the end of the wire to ground.
 
Check for spark at the plugs as stated earlier,sometimes there's a film over the points when their new.Also check your spark plug wires firing order,you said you changed them.
 
Changed the points and now nothing but back fire well that says you problem is in the new points and or new condenser or both. Says points are not opening and closing as they should or maybe the rotor clip is not there?? Whats spark look like at ALL the plug wires??
 
Something else I remember happened to me one time. Years ago got a set pf point that would fit right in but they where not the correct set and I did not compare the old ones with the new ones. The new set was upside down from the old set so they opened one place over on the distributor shaft or in other words had it firing one place off on the cap. Yes not likely but something to check and compare old to new
 
With the exception of the point's, all other things were done about 2 mo.s ago. The dist. is not the original. It's a Mallory replacement that was on the tractor when I got it about a year and a half ago. The rotor button can only go on 1 way. What is this rotor clip I see referenced here? Like I said, the tractor was running fine at idle speed less than 10 minutes before I changed the point's out. I'll check the spark on wires, but I don't think that's it. As my mother in law use to say " You never know". Thanks guy's
 
The clip is for the factory distributor and sits under the rotor to hold the rotor tight but since you left out info hard for people to help you. Shoot could even be a crack distributor cap which a person can not see. Sometimes you can find crack cap by garbing hold of it and try to start the engine but if it is cracked you will not enjoy finding the problem since it will zap you real good
 
recheck fire order.. 1-2-4-3

make sure there is a spring clip under rotor ( fits tight ).

check advance mech.

if that is good and spark is good.

see if a lil choke helps it on throttl eup.

post back
 
Chris, Look at his post lower. He said it has an aftermarket distributor so the clip may not be there but that in turn could cause other odd problems
 
Another thing comes to mind. This summer on a IH 340 we have it was running just fine then died. I had trouble with it back firing and doing a lot of odd stuff and I found that the distributor drive gear had a few teeth sheared off so it would spin some time and not others but that in turn knocked it out of time
 
So it was running but not well,and then the only thing you changed was the points and now it won't start at all. Did you try putting the old points back in?
 
did this tractor ever run right?
new distributor sets off alarm bells here.
check static timing and firing order and rotation
remember, even with a stock distributor, wire position might not match the 'book'
Previous owners do what they have to, to get em running.
I don't take anything for granted, every tractor I get, gets the static timing checked first, then a timing light.
old points, new points, doesn't matter if the spark ain't at the right time/place.......= bang, bang
 
Today I did put the old point's back in and got the same results. Pull the choke, press starter button, and one BIG bang backfire. In answer to someone elses question, Yes the tractor did run great up till about sept. (about a year). It started missing and losing power under a load, so I thought trash in gas. That started the snowball of repairs a little at a time.(See original post.)So,Good spark at plug's,CHECK. Firing order correct, CHECK. Dist. cap and rotor button appear to be good.( Got a second opinion on that one to be sure). I never had this much trouble with my cars back in the sixties and seventies so what's up?
 
This is not a vacuum advance dist. so what advance mechanism are you talking about and how do you check it? Yes firing order is 1243.As I just posted in another reply, when I pull out the choke and try to start I get a very large bang. Sounds like a 45 cal. going off. ( out the exaust).I have good spark at the plugs and at the points. ( see post about 30 min. ago.) Thanks for you time.
 
Check the wire on the side of the distributor. Make sure it is connected well. I had a problem with my 850 -ground found someone had broken the wire inside the distributor and left the old tab on it that was grounded to the distributor.
 
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