the transmission lock on my 806 will not hold the tractor in place especially if it's on slightly unleveled ground. there is an adjustment linkage that connects to a rod that goes into the transmission, should i adjust the linkage. I tried to pull the rod out to the transmission, but it will not come. When I do set the lock on uneven ground I can hear grinding in the tranny. What should I do. Thanks.
 
You can try to adjust it but the teeth on the dog may be worn and letting it slip. The dog may need replaced. Worse yet if teeth are broken on the gear that the dog meshes with....James
 
the transmission lock on my 806 will not hold the tractor in place especially if it's on slightly unleveled ground. there is an adjustment linkage that connects to a rod that goes into the transmission, should i adjust the linkage. I tried to pull the rod out to the transmission, but it will not come. When I do set the lock on uneven ground I can hear grinding in the tranny. What should I do. Thanks.
I'm guessing the dog is worn.

You can change it from the left side of the tranny when you pull the hydraulic plate off.
 
No the hydraulic plate will not get into it. You would have to pull the range cover to get to the park brake jaw and you need to put a 1/2 inch nut under the cross pin to hold it up so it is not catching on the gear as you lift it up. The range cover is under the front of the platform. I'v4e never been able to see the park brake from the cover on the left side which is the cover for a front axle drive on it. The MCV is right in front of this cover. You need to drain a bit of oil or run it up on a block to keep it from leaking when you pull that cover. I have an 806 since 1978 an 856 both which are the same from the clutch back except for the shifting lever mechanism and the cam under the range cover. I've also had both apart a few times in the past over the 50 or so years I've owned my 806. What you can see through the left cover is the reverse fork and shifting shaft and this needs to be open to pull the range cover in case the shaft wants to come out of the reverse fork so you don't have the key fall in the case. along with the fork. There is supposedly a newer model of park brake for them.I've not seen it but is supposed to work better than the original one which would not take much to do. My dad uses a piece of a 2x4 wedged in front of the brake pedal to hold it in place when hitching. I just shut it off for that with it in gear. The hydraulic cover is a pentagon looking piece behind the cover for the reverse fork and it just has the rear hydraulic pump mounted to it in the rear section of the rearend housing section. There is a partion wall of the case between the place you want to be and the hydraulic pump plate. If you have questions call me 989 413 5684 or PM me on this site. You can't see much since it is all inside of the case except the top link and the linkage to operate it. The actual working part of engagement is inside out of sight. I found the jaw hits the face of the gear teeth befor it get in tight enough to hold on the original style.
 
Be aware that it is not a BRAKE! It is a LOCK. In simple terms, it is a hook that latches into the reverse ldler gear in the transmission, preventing the transmission from rotating. A brake has friction material rubbing against smooth steel surfaces that can handle a little sliding. These are gear teeth, which do not slide.

The reason it's not working now is most likely because someone in the past treated it as a BRAKE, by dropping it while the tractor was still moving. You will be lucky if no teeth have broken off the reverse idler gear. If you hear a tick-tick-tick when you are backing the tractor up, that is what happened.

Now is a good time to refresh it with new parts, also to install the upgraded spring-loaded version if those parts can still be obtained.

In the future, do not apply the park LOCK until the tractor is completely stationary.
 
I have a similar problem I noticed when I had one wheel jacked up. It is possible to rotate my wheel with some effort even when the park lock is engaged and when you do it, you hear a ratcheting sound. The cross shaft for the trans brake needs a new o ring on the shaft as it is leaking. This is under the belly of the tractor. Is the park lock accessible through this bottom opening?
 
I have a similar problem I noticed when I had one wheel jacked up. It is possible to rotate my wheel with some effort even when the park lock is engaged and when you do it, you hear a ratcheting sound. The cross shaft for the trans brake needs a new o ring on the shaft as it is leaking. This is under the belly of the tractor. Is the park lock accessible through this bottom opening?
No. The park lock is on top, attached to the range cover.

It's not that difficult to access, just remove the deck plate and it's right there. It's the cover where the hydraulic oil fill is.
 
Barnyard has it just some times that cover is down tight from time and age. There are a couple dowel pins that can be tight also. Do be careful as it is a cast cover and can be broken if you don't. You may want to also remove the cover on the left side by the step with the clippe3d corner as that lets you get to the reverse fork and if the shaft comes up with the lid the fork falls off and can lose the key inside .With the cover off you can watch for it as you lift the lid off so that doesn't happen.
 
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