820 John Deere diesel starting problems

My 820 3cyl has a problem. It started out by starting up and then stopping about 10 seconds later. This repeated until the battery got very low. I changed fuel filters and bled the system but it would not start at all. In desperation, I gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired up. It ran for 5 minutes or more before I shut it down and then it easily started again.

However, when I used it the next day it ran for 20 min and it slowed down and stopped. She wouldn't restart. A fully charged battery turned it faster and it started again and I drove it home.

The injector pump is a Roosamaster with a solenoid valve. It has an after market electric pump.

Any suggestion will be appreciated...I need my tractor!!
 

Sounds typical for clogged check valve on fuel inj pump or clogged tank return fuel return line. Loosen both screws on inj pump timing window & if rubber gasket is stuck to housing pry loose it loose. Start engine & it runs correctly check for clog mentioned in 1st sentence. Another problem could be fuel tank isn't venting.
 
What injection pimp does it have (make and model number from the I.D. tag on the pump). (At least 3 different makes/models were used.)

<img src = "https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/john-deere-ag-tractors/436811d1439037218-john-deere-820-wont-run-r31305_________un01jan94-gif?s=61d72ef637b4840f45af35a1de19055c">

If the style like this drawing, there's a plastic "governor damper ring" that fails/crumbles with heat, time, and hours of use into what looks like coffee grounds.

This plugs the fuel return system and that style of pump will act just as you describe when that happens.

If you feel you can do this safely, (potential fire hazard) loosen the screws in the timing window (9) and attempt to start it.

Fuel will spill, believing housing pressure, and if a failed governor ring/clogged return system is the problem, it should start and run while spilling fuel.

That means that injection pump needs to be rebuilt.

If you DO have this style of I.P., you can search the archives for "Roosa Master governor ring" or "Stanadyne governor ring", of for the symptoms you are seeing and you should be able to find lots of threads with more details on this.
 
Try running with the pump timing cover loose on the side like Bob said, if it runs WITH the fuel leak, but slows/stalls with the cover tight pump needs repair. DO NOT knock out the return fitting ball and keep running it! That just ruins the fitting and shears off the retainer pins, seizing the hydraulic head, breaking the drive shaft and wrecking the pump. I still see too many guys do that on pumps I get in for repair..
 
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