8210

[john nelson]

We have a 8210 Ford with a 401 engine, about 1000 hrs on a rebuild, pump and injectors rebuilt. After runing about an hour with load it begins heating up espically if the ac is on. It appears to be loosing coolant, causing it to heat. Runs great no white smoke,no water in the oil, raidator pressure test dosen"t show any problem. Recored raidator and new water pump about 200 hrs ago. I am concerned about a combustion leak. Have any of you had any problems, like cracked head, or anything with this engine. It hasn"t been overheated. It is gradually geting worse. It does have a extra condenser, converting it to 134.
Thanks
John

 

[showcrop]

The 401 was noted for getting cavitation holes in the cylinder wall, especially in soft water areas if the coolant didn't have the proper additives.

 

[hurleyjd]

Pressure check your radiator cap. I had the same problem with a tractor overheating and loosing coolant. Tried about everything. finally pressure checked the cap. It would not hold any pressure at all. New cap solved the problem.

 

[john nelson]

A pinhole in a sleeve is a possibility, it is bored .040 over. I wondered if a pinhole could be high enough, and small enoughnot to show up in the oil or exaust. It's really a sweet tractor and he takes excellent care of it.It's beem about 300 hrs since it started, and is getting worse I think.
Thanks
John

 

[RodinNS]

I've had the 268's blow coolant out. When they do that, at least from what I've seen, there isn't much doubt about it. They'll fire it out the overflow, into the fan and promptly up on the windsheild.
If you look in the rad tank the remaining coolant will be black and foaming.

If I didn't see that happening I'd probably check to see that the rad is blown clean really well, then I'd probably run a bottle of acid flush (as per the directions on the bottle) or drain the coolant out and fill the cooling system with vinegar and run it until it warms up. That should dissolve any crud in the system... Then drain it out, flush, flush, and flush again to get the vinegar out.
Check all the belts, replace the thermostat and mabey change the rad cap as already suggested.

Another thought is the fuel pump.... Is it possible that someone has turned the pump way up? The engine could well make a bunch more power since it's derated some in that tractor anyway... but the tractor may not have the cooling system to keep it cool.
Also check for a collapsing lower rad hose. That might be restricting flow.

Many things to check, but I doubt it's a cylinder wall problem. I would tend to think that cavitation would present itself as coolant in the base...

Also, if the tractor has a viscous fan drive, that could be failing and the fan simply not moving any air.

Rod

 

[jbirnsch]

Check the fan pully for excessive wear. If the belt is riding on the bottom of the pully it will slip and get worse as the belt heats up and gets loose.

We have to replace the fan pully on our TW30 this spring for that reason.

 

[john nelson]

Good news I think? The inside ring where the raidator caps seals against is bent down a little, someone may have had a funnel or something against it. Thanks for your help and ideas.
John

 

[leeb]

I had a TW25 {same engine as a 8210} that did the same thing, run a while and slowly get hot, losing just a little coolant. A new head gasket fixed the problem.

 

[Blue Buddy]

that things has dual thermostats as well, make sure one is not stuck closed and maybe your just working on the one and not both, leaks, if all elese fails with leaks, get some dye for antifreeze, and add it to the rad, is a little pouch or bottle, will leave a bright yellow stain from the leak, and i have found a LOT of leaks that way, customer will say the rad goes down but it is not leaking, and after he calls and says found the leak, often a block heater in the nothern climates