830 with loader

[karl f]

Got an 830 comfort king, draftomatic gas (841) standard transmission, with du-all all hydraulic loader on the farm recently. It is the first JI Case tractor on the farm. We truly are a CIH and CNH farm now!! (IH, Ford & Case) what"s next, fiat?


waiting for a manual to come, have a few questions and such. What are top maintenace items and lubrication locations, especially those that are ignored 40 years? Hydraulic fill and level check? What other pointers do you have? Common failures and other things to look at and consider?

I think i have the Draft o matic figured out. There is a lever on the platform floor with a few positions. I assume that the closer to D it is, the heavier the draft will be, and when it is nearer to P the draft is lighter, and at P, the hitch is in position control mode only.

The brakes will be one of the first items to adjust, one side does not grab at all. New muffler needed too, as the straight pipe is too loud. It is missing the top link, does anyone have a suggestion for the proper length universal one to get?

Finally, if things go really well with it, i would like to upgrade the convienience of the hydraulics. THe loader is run by the stock remote levers, and i would like to go with something handier. I am considering either a power beyond or series plumbed valve assembly, or even a valve assembly ran off one factory remote wired in operating position (not my first choice). I assume to do power beyond or series, you connect to the pump, use a valve assembly with relief, and then plumb that valve assy's outlet to where the pump outlet tube attatches to the under platform valve assembly. correct me if i"m wrong or add more info you think it might help.

thanks in advance,
karl f

 

[TexasWren]

On my 830 (301d), I've had a few things that I would recommend. One thing often neglected is greasing the throwout on the clutch, accessed via the plate on the left. Keeping that in good shape saves a world of hurt. Also make sure the bottom drain in the bell housing is open (sorry if that's obvious, but they guy I bought my tractor from didn't do it, and there was about ten gallons of water rusting the clutch and starter out when I got it)

My transmission fluid had bad water contamination (I still haven't managed to get rid of it all.) The trans oil capacity is 18 gallons, so hold onto your wallet if you have to replace it. Filler and dipstick is in the back, next to the PTO. To drain the trans, there's four oil plugs -- three on the bottom, and a tiny one on the left side. The frontmost bottom one drains almost all the oil. The other three are for small reservoirs that get trapped by castings. There's a spin-on filter for the hydraulics on the left of the trans right under the deck which should be replaced if you replace the oil. (also, run your loader cylinders to their bottoms to put as much oil back in the trans as you can before draining.)

Brakes are most likely not grabbing because of a leaky oil seal around the bull pinion OR a leaking bull pinion endcap. There are drains in the brake covers that are supposed to allow any oil to escape, but on mine, they were plugged, which caused the brake cover to fill up with trans oil (and a leaking end cap will drip oil directly on the disks). You might be able to salvage your brake disks by soaking them in solvent.

Didn't really think about the toplink length when I replaced mine. Just got a Category II off the shelf at Tractor Supply, which seems to be the right length.

There are a few oil points on the starter motor which will make a surprising difference in the cranking speed (at least it did on mine). There's also a couple of oil points on the generator, and a zerk fitting on the water pump. Don't put too much grease in the water pump, or you'll force the seal out.

PTO clutch should be adjusted for a significant pull, to keep it from burning the PTO clutch pack. Manual says about 50 pounds pull on the lever, but as long as it makes a definite "snap" it should be good. Adjusting it isn't complicated, but it's not obvious. There's other posts on here about how to do it.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head.

I envy you the loader. I'd love to hear what success you have with tapping into the hydraulics for a better loader control.

 

[Billy Mo]

I have an 830CK as well and want to replace the fluids. My Case dealer said I should use TCH fluid in the Case-O-Matic clutch, but can use Hy-Tran in the transmission. TCH fluid is $89.00 for 5 gallons! He said it's worth it. Any thoughts?