856 clutch install

Brandt856

Member
Good evening! This is my first time at this. How tight do I torque these bolts that hold my clutch on? When I tighten them, the ?fingers? move. I cannot find answer in service manual. Just a general torque guide for different grade bolts.

Also any tips on lining up the now split tractor? She is ready to go together and be one piece again. How do I get the tranny splines to line up with clutch? As always thanks for your time!
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Take the ppa off the flywheel and hang it on the PTO gear then put clutch disc on input shaft.Slide tractor together then install ppa bolts thru the inspection plate at bottom of clutch housing.
 
Forgot to mention that you want to put a 5/16 nut under each lever to hold them down until you get the ppa bolted back up.
 
I think I follow you. What you are suggesting is also, what the service manual suggests. But, how tight do I torque these bolts? Also, I don?t follow your tip on the 5/6 but under each lever? Where exactly? Sorry for my ignorance!
 
They go between the cover and lever just to the outside of the pin.Lay them flat,as the levers will want to rise as you unbolt the ppa.Your new ppa should have had those or plastic sqaures when you got it.Just be careful to not drop them inside as you are tightening up.As for torque value I have never used a torque wrench on these,just made sure the bolts are tight.
 
The fingers move inward as you tighten the pressure plate mount bolts.That is normal.But do as Sking says - hang the whole assembly on the splines,and push it all together.Do it this way and you only have hit the pilot bearing 'hole'. Then reach up thru the inspection hole and tighten the bolts-after you snug up the bellhousing bolts.Try to eyeball it so the bolt holes on the flywheel are nearly aligned with the pressure plate holes. Lightly snug each bolt before you tighten them down,rotating the engine twice(use a helper). As the pressure plate tightens down,it will bottom against the flywheel,and you will feel the bolts become harder to turn.Your helper may have to hold the engine from rotating.That should be tight enough. Mark.
 
Here is a picture where the nut goes to hold the fingers compressed for assembly. I also included a picture of the clutch hanging in the transmission shaft.
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they are half inch grade 5 bolts so they get tightened to 90 foot lbs. that is why they put the torque chart in the owners manual. if something needs tightened to a different value than standard torque it will state differently in the it manual. you don't have to put the nuts under the clutch fingers but it makes it easier to get the bolts started.
 
First thing you need are two alignment studs that you thread into the bell housing, one on each side, into one of the four main frame rail holes. The longer the better, but at least long enough that they protrude through the frame rail flange so you can get a hold of it with a vise grip to thread it out.

Second, DON'T FORCE IT. If you get stuck 1/2" short of together, and try to pull it together with bolts, you're going to cause problems. Spending time making sure things are straight and aligned, then wiggle-wiggle-wiggle, and it will slide together. I've found that a come-along chained between the front axle and rear axle on each side, and two people using coordinated movements, works best to bring the tractor back together. When you get close you need only grab the cable and push down/pull up to get the wiggle-wiggle-wiggle part going. Every one I've done this way has popped right back together with no force required.

For the record, the pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel and torqued. Have no idea how you'd do it with the tractor back together through the so-called "hand hole" on the bottom. You can barely see in there let alone reach in line up holes and thread bolts.
 
Well io see your first mistake , And that is you have it hanging on the flywheel , I never do that . You hang it on the PTO input shaft with the shipping blocks still in place then ya hang the clutch disc on the transmission input shaft . THEN you SLIDE it all together and wiggle and jiggle the tractor together getting ALL your frame bolts nice and tight . Then you get on a creeper and work up THRU the inspection hole and put the clutch bolts in and work you way around installing them and lightly tightening them down EVENLY making sure that it sets down in FLAT . They are a 1/2 grade five bolt now as for me i have never put a torque wrench to them . My right wrist snaps at 45 Ft. Lbs and i go a bit past that with a Mac. long flex wrench , my personal tool of choice . Next did you have the flywheel reground ?? and the step cut ?? Did you install a new IDPTO input shaft with new bearing and seals correct ?? . Tryen to do it your way is a good way to bend or break something because now you have two shaqfts to get lined up plus the pilot bearing , my way you just have to deal with the pilot bearing .
 
A clutch alignment tool that is specifically made for the application will work every time. If it slides in and out smoothly after everything is bolted together. I have about 20 different ones I have made over the years.
Use a caliper or even a tape measure when you are sliding it back together to measure each side and top and bottom. Keeping it even is the trick. Spin the flywheel over by hand while sliding back together. Use alignment bolts. And never ever tighten bolts with a wrench to force it back together. Keep this in mind if you do it this way or if you hang it from the clutch shaft. Lots of wiggle and jiggle, patience and a helper! I never liked laying on a creeper and tightening from underneath. Either way will work.
 
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