856 TA Dump Light

[CP1]

Have an 856 that had a new TA put in and after a while using it the dump valve light started flickering, then now it stays on. Except when you pull the TA lever back half way it goes out ad and comes on again as it’s all the way back. Also the light goes out if you step on the brake. Put in a new switch, still the same thing. Haven’t checked pressure yet at the switch as the tractor is 30 miles away on the baler. TA seems to work fine. Any ideas?

 

[used red MN]

Have an 856 that had a new TA put in and after a while using it the dump valve light started flickering, then now it stays on. Except when you pull the TA lever back half way it goes out ad and comes on again as it’s all the way back. Also the light goes out if you step on the brake. Put in a new switch, still the same thing. Haven’t checked pressure yet at the switch as the tractor is 30 miles away on the baler. TA seems to work fine. Any ideas?

Don’t use it in Direct TA until you have the problem figured out. When that light flickers and the pressure is actually low the clutch pack is very prone to slipping.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Call the one that put in the TA and tell them to come and fix their screw-up.

 

[CP1]

Hey that’s me that that put in the TA
No offense!
I’ve put in lots of torque’s in 50 plus years, but first time I’ve had such an IH do something like this?
Pressures were good after install, everything right for maybe three months, Just want an answer to share with others if someone has run into this before

 

[Powered By IH]

Have an 856 that had a new TA put in and after a while using it the dump valve light started flickering, then now it stays on. Except when you pull the TA lever back half way it goes out ad and comes on again as it’s all the way back. Also the light goes out if you step on the brake. Put in a new switch, still the same thing. Haven’t checked pressure yet at the switch as the tractor is 30 miles away on the baler. TA seems to work fine. Any ideas?

Have you tried adjusting all the linkage to get them back in place? Just a Few Acres Farm has a good video on that.

 

[the tractior vet]

Have an 856 that had a new TA put in and after a while using it the dump valve light started flickering, then now it stays on. Except when you pull the TA lever back half way it goes out ad and comes on again as it’s all the way back. Also the light goes out if you step on the brake. Put in a new switch, still the same thing. Haven’t checked pressure yet at the switch as the tractor is 30 miles away on the baler. TA seems to work fine. Any ideas?

Well more then likely the issue is in the MCV . I would say as i have been out twice to FIX the local I H dealers screw up and both time there HEAD wrench twister forgot the O/Ring between the M C V body and the speed trans frame . The one tractor i went to FIX was because there two wheel drive pick up could NOT get back to the tractor and it would not MOVE . not even in the low side with one of them NEW T/A's the dealer was pushing . why do some people have such issues doing T.A's . I would buy every I H at every sale i went to and every auctioneer across IN. and Ill. knew if i was there they had a sucker who would buy that rag. . That Chassis O/ring is the first place i would look

 

[the tractior vet]

Have you tried adjusting all the linkage to get them back in place? Just a Few Acres Farm has a good video on that.

Well if your relayen on a want to be know it all as i watched his vid and let me put it this way lets see how long that T/A job will last as he DID NOT clearance it correctly . He did NOT go thru the M CV . He did not set pressure . Where as i made my living working on them and also i have all the I H service tools same as a dealer has as i have bought out the service dept of one closing I H dealer and odds and end fro two others covering up to late model 86 Series . And what i don't have to work on the new stuff i do not work on . How many have a I H flow Rater ?? ya can't do proper work on Hyd. with out one , ya can only guess and throw money at the issue . Ya want one like what i have ya best dig deep in the piggy bank .

 

[the tractior vet]

Hey that’s me that that put in the TA
No offense!
I’ve put in lots of torque’s in 50 plus years, but first time I’ve had such an IH do something like this?
Pressures were good after install, everything right for maybe three months, Just want an answer to share with others if someone has run into this before

Also who's T/A unit did ya use , if it is not in the M C V then it it is in the direct drive system , this is a pain to test for as then ya need to do some port blocking You say when you step on the brakes it backs up pressure HUMM yep a new one so again this comes back to M C V issue

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Well if your relayen on a want to be know it all as i watched his vid and let me put it this way lets see how long that T/A job will last as he DID NOT clearance it correctly . He did NOT go thru the M CV . He did not set pressure . Where as i made my living working on them and also i have all the I H service tools same as a dealer has as i have bought out the service dept of one closing I H dealer and odds and end fro two others covering up to late model 86 Series . And what i don't have to work on the new stuff i do not work on . How many have a I H flow Rater ?? ya can't do proper work on Hyd. with out one , ya can only guess and throw money at the issue . Ya want one like what i have ya best dig deep in the piggy bank .

So you drew that conclusion by watching ONE video. That was only the first in a series of videos on the 756, including a two-part video where he went through the MCV. The final determination is that the TA needs to be replaced on the 756, and to my knowledge he has NOT done a TA job on the 756 yet.

Also, just because things don't happen on screen, does not mean they don't happen.

 

[Mrfred54]

Steering has priority so guessing you have a leak in the regulated circuit. Pressure checked in DD and TA?? I like to get the pressure close to 300 psi. Lube pressure 25 psi should be sufficient. If lube pressure rises significantly when selector spool is in the mid position you got a MCV internal leak.

 

[the tractior vet]

Have an 856 that had a new TA put in and after a while using it the dump valve light started flickering, then now it stays on. Except when you pull the TA lever back half way it goes out ad and comes on again as it’s all the way back. Also the light goes out if you step on the brake. Put in a new switch, still the same thing. Haven’t checked pressure yet at the switch as the tractor is 30 miles away on the baler. TA seems to work fine. Any ideas?

So you drew that conclusion by watching ONE video. That was only the first in a series of videos on the 756, including a two-part video where he went through the MCV. The final determination is that the TA needs to be replaced on the 756, and to my knowledge he has NOT done a TA job on the 756 yet.

Also, just because things don't happen on screen, does not mean they don't happen.

LOOK I SAW what he was doing , and for darn near thirty years we did two to three T/A's a week . I bought on Avg of two to four tractors a week out of sales that were called for bad T/A's i was a Hy cap dealer and i installed them and when that tractor went to Auction it went with a new T/A with warranty plus the locals that brought there tractors to me for the job as i was a BUNCH cheaper then the local dealer on the job plus i gave a better warranty with the std T/A went a two year warranty parts and labor that i never had to do a warranty job or come back . Some of the LOCAL people who came to me went from customers to good friends and when they needed something they came to me to FIND what they wanted . I burnt the mid night oil doing what i did and did it right . many days started by 8:30 and ended after 11 PM , rush home get a shower wolf down some thing to eat get to bed at mid night and be out of bed by 3 and on the road by 3:30 and drive five to 7 hours to the next sale , walk a sale lot larger then most farms then load what i bought and beat feet back to the house getting home around 2 to 4 in the morning get maybe four hours sleep run out to the shop unload and get back to repairing so i had something to sell at the next auction or working on a local tractor . I know every inch of the I H brand on the larger tractors as the utility's were NOT my thing as they did not sell well around here . and back then we did not have you tube and even if we did i did not have the time to play games and try to impress people with what i did . I had more then enough work coming in . my work impressed the ones i worked for doing great work at a price that did not make you go broke . I did good enough work that even one dealer would call when they got swamped with work one auction house that i would go down and handle any issues before the sales from minor to major and have what ever ready for sale day sometimes finishen up two hours before the sale started yea that meant working on thru the night to get a tractor up and running . even the local I H dealer called me to go solve and issue on a tractor they screwed up . The oliver dealer north of me would call me when they got a off color tractor in and i also did buying at the far away auctions for them when there was a decent Oliver that paid me 5 % buyer fee of the buy price and when the tractor or equipment sold i got another 10% . And he was impressed with my buying skills . At times i would buy him several semi loads of what he was looking for .

 

[the tractior vet]

Steering has priority so guessing you have a leak in the regulated circuit. Pressure checked in DD and TA?? I like to get the pressure close to 300 psi. Lube pressure 25 psi should be sufficient. If lube pressure rises significantly when selector spool is in the mid position you got a MCV internal leak.

I usually shoot for on the 100 Hp tractors around 250-60 range on lock up . 1066's tweaked 275 -80 . that is just me thought .

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

LOOK I SAW what he was doing , and for darn near thirty years we did two to three T/A's a week . I bought on Avg of two to four tractors a week out of sales that were called for bad T/A's i was a Hy cap dealer and i installed them and when that tractor went to Auction it went with a new T/A with warranty plus the locals that brought there tractors to me for the job as i was a BUNCH cheaper then the local dealer on the job plus i gave a better warranty with the std T/A went a two year warranty parts and labor that i never had to do a warranty job or come back . Some of the LOCAL people who came to me went from customers to good friends and when they needed something they came to me to FIND what they wanted . I burnt the mid night oil doing what i did and did it right . many days started by 8:30 and ended after 11 PM , rush home get a shower wolf down some thing to eat get to bed at mid night and be out of bed by 3 and on the road by 3:30 and drive five to 7 hours to the next sale , walk a sale lot larger then most farms then load what i bought and beat feet back to the house getting home around 2 to 4 in the morning get maybe four hours sleep run out to the shop unload and get back to repairing so i had something to sell at the next auction or working on a local tractor . I know every inch of the I H brand on the larger tractors as the utility's were NOT my thing as they did not sell well around here . and back then we did not have you tube and even if we did i did not have the time to play games and try to impress people with what i did . I had more then enough work coming in . my work impressed the ones i worked for doing great work at a price that did not make you go broke . I did good enough work that even one dealer would call when they got swamped with work one auction house that i would go down and handle any issues before the sales from minor to major and have what ever ready for sale day sometimes finishen up two hours before the sale started yea that meant working on thru the night to get a tractor up and running . even the local I H dealer called me to go solve and issue on a tractor they screwed up . The oliver dealer north of me would call me when they got a off color tractor in and i also did buying at the far away auctions for them when there was a decent Oliver that paid me 5 % buyer fee of the buy price and when the tractor or equipment sold i got another 10% . And he was impressed with my buying skills . At times i would buy him several semi loads of what he was looking for .

Yeah, you saw him adjust the external linkages, BY THE BOOK, which is what you have said to do hundreds of times on this forum over the years.

He did not touch the MCV internals, that came later. He did not install a TA on that tractor, though he did a TA on his 856 about three years later (mostly offscreen).

We know you're God's gift to these old tractors, but you ain't going to live forever and I highly doubt you're teaching anyone how to carry on your legacy. Probably figure everyone's born with the knowledge, just like you were, right?

 

[Mrfred54]

Reading your post ,tractor vet. I can relate to doing all those TA’s. I’m doing a 966 at the moment right now. Don’t do as many as I used to, only bout 6-8 a year. I would probably do more transmission and differential work if I could keep a young guy around to help and teach him about these ole tractors but after a couple jobs they have had enough.

 

[the tractior vet]

Reading your post ,tractor vet. I can relate to doing all those TA’s. I’m doing a 966 at the moment right now. Don’t do as many as I used to, only bout 6-8 a year. I would probably do more transmission and differential work if I could keep a young guy around to help and teach him about these ole tractors but after a couple jobs they have had enough.

It takes a warped mind to work on then . I can work on atractor days on end and never cuss it out . BUT if i have to work on my own car , truck please do not come around , it ain't pretty. I lost all reality way back at a ford dealer working on big block Mustangs and yea we could make them run they were a pain and many wrench trowing incidents . I plum hated the 428 in a stang with a four speed and tryen to just change spark plug . then throw in the N series big trucks on them it did not matter if it had a big block gas a 250 Cummins or a 6-71Detroit it was wise not to come onto my work area . Someone let the Cat out of the bag that i knew how to work on Cummins and Detroits and even had the tools to do so . I did not mind the C and L series , it was the N's and F's were no picnic either .

 

[the tractior vet]

Yeah, you saw him adjust the external linkages, BY THE BOOK, which is what you have said to do hundreds of times on this forum over the years.

He did not touch the MCV internals, that came later. He did not install a TA on that tractor, though he did a TA on his 856 about three years later (mostly offscreen).

We know you're God's gift to these old tractors, but you ain't going to live forever and I highly doubt you're teaching anyone how to carry on your legacy. Probably figure everyone's born with the knowledge, just like you were, right?

No i do not go by the book on adjustments , the BOOK worked when they were NEW not after they have been field tested with loads of slop . No i have not been teaching as i have no one to teach . The only BOOK adjustment if clutch free travel . Setting on the trans brake is done by FEEL due to some of the bell cranks may fit tight and no ware and some are almost plum wore out with goobs of free play and dump vavle is done two ways one is watching the tel tale light or installing a gauge and watching pressure drop , the light way is the fastest as long as the light works . When i am working on one don't bother me as i am working on someones dime and when i am working on one of the rags i hauled home i am on my dime so go away . doing videos was not a thing at the time and even if it was it takes time to mess with that . I had to do the job correctly so when it left and went back to work i did not want to have to go fix my screw up on my dime . Or file a warranty claim with Hy Capand i was blessed with never having any issue on any I H tractors i worked on , now not sayen that i never had any issues as i did . I had a nightmare on a 800 Ford one time , came in for a simple tune up . a Major tune up valve adjustment carb rebuild , plugs , points cap rotor and wires fix the charging system . when done she ran like a dream , started good in the cold as that was his mine concern . Parked it out side the shop over night when it got down into the 20's . I get to the shop the next morning and she fired up like summer great ship it . Two days later the guy calls and he is hostile it will NOT start , so we grab a new set of plugs and run out to his mini dairy farm and put new plugs in it and she fires up i look at the plugs i took out and they were wet We both thought that maybe he over choked it and flooded it . He hauled his one load of manure and parked the tractor i went back to the shop where it was WARM . Next day 5:30 the phone rings it is HIM again tractor will not start same issue fouled plugs . Recheck carb settings and she is fine and it is flippen cold out in the shed and we get talking and he tells me NOW that the night he took the tractor home the next morning he got 500 gallon of gas and filled the tractor . HUMMMMM . I saw and empty coffee can went to his pump and put some gas in the can set it out in the drive lit a piece of paper and threw it in the can and the fire went out NO big flash no kerrrrt BOOOOOM the fire went out to get flame it took a Propane torch and when it did light it smoke like diesel , here the fuel guy delivered home heating oil (diesel ) to a home before he dropped the gas and contaminated the gas with diesel fuel enough that it would NOT light off spark plugs . This was not my fault but took some of my time to solve the issue . Three trips out the road about two and ahalf miles each way two sets of spark plugs on my dime my time . Lester had trouble with the fuel guy as he claimed no wrong doing . They guy we got fuel from told me that just in the hose alone there could be up to fifty gallon of product still in the hose from the past delivery . on a one hose system where he always kept one hose on his two hose truck strickly for gas and one for diesel so no cross contamination . Had a new bearing fail once . And i have redone work others have done several on the old Mechanical T/A's when the put the big seal in backwards or cut it while placing the carrier back in and end up with a leak . Ya need the seal protector for installation . Yep got one along with the spanner socket for the job . Other tractor issues one David Brown that gave me fits , a 930 Case on a head replacement as i was lied to by the one selling me the heads that almost tuned into a major issue for me when the exhaust valves hit the pistons . I did not know that 830 heads will not work on a 930 the guy told me oh no problem they will work . A John Deere 2520 with electrical issues a head scratching night mare that drove me up a wall and what are the odds of getting a new from Deere a defective head light bulb . I have always been good on electrical issue and i build my own wiring harnesses with the correct ends and plugs color code correct with a few improvement over factory . Yep i know i will not be around forever and days are getting shorter and i am slowing way down lost a buch of strength as i can not even do the rage cover one handed like i use to by grabbing the filler neck with one hand while guiding the rev. shifter shaft down into the rev shifting fork .No more lifting a 100 ft weight off the ground one handed and hanging it on the weight bracket with either arm . even walking has become a chore . Heck it has been four years since i was even in the seat of a tractor other then my 1250 cub cadet . I have been blessed to make it this far as i never even thought i would make it out of Nam upright . due to how many we lost and when i left only two others of the Org. team were still alive . I left mid May 68 those tow extended for 90 days for the bonus and two jumps in rank , last i heard from them was early Aug and not a word since . All my old friends are now gone the whole as we called ourselfs the GOOD TIME Gang all MO PAR owners Road Runners , Super BEE's a couple Chargers and G TX's . back then i was a Chrysler Plymouth tech and buddy i could squeeze some getty up and go out of them . Some said i could tune a hemi better then anybody around here . we could take your new 440 6 Pac Road Runner or Super Bee and shave off a second and a half ET in under a half hour and NO parts needed . All i needed was a Phillips #2 an a pair of side cutters and my timing light . Those were the fun days Drag racing tractor pulling wild wimmen chasen .

 

[Mrfred54]

I know all about the seal in the mechanical TA. Can’t count how many I had to redo that seal that everybody cuts. Had a guy one time drive a cork in the drain hole of the dry section to stop the leak until about a year later the TA clutch started slipping and wanted me to adjust his clutch and TA to stop it from slipping. Called me back a day later and said I screwed something up cause it’s slipping worse now. Back again to check adjustment and this time I noticed oil seepage around the tin cover over the TA clutch. Removed the tin cover and I asked him about oil leaking out that weep hole on the bottom. He said he drove a plug into the hole cause it keep leaking and was told to plug the hole. Oil was almost up to the drive shaft . Try to explain this to a very distraught man that the adjustment is not the problem but his cork in the hole caused his issue. Found out finally that the TA had been replaced about 3 years prior and the mechanic had moved out of state so no longer available. Told him it’s needs to come apart again to fix the leak and he said no way. It’s going up forsale