860 Steering Sector Adjustment Snag

Shaggyman

Member
Location
Dayton, MO
1955 Ford 860 used almost every day for the 30 years I've had it.
Steering was very hard and very sloppy, so I rebuilt the steering box with new bearings, seals, etc and steering shaft/nut assembly.
All went well until installed on the tractor. Upon installing and tightening the Pittman arms, I find I have less than a quarter turn on either sector shaft adjustment screw. I do not understand at all. Without the arms installed and tightened, the screws pull the sector shafts in and out as expected.
What am I missing?
Could steering shaft end play cause the adjuster screws to bind?
Should they have been unscrewed all the way before putting the arms on?
TO-20 is not clear in this respect.
Ideas?
 
Those adjusting screws fit in the slots in the sector shafts. The whole process is explained on page 7 in the I&T Ford Shop Service Manual.

Too long to retype here. If you do not have access to that I can scan the page for you.
 
did you diddle the steering wheel --was the steering wheel centered to and fro -- left and right? you could plop out the sectors, center the steering wheel first- then re-attach the sectors and re-diddle them to your preference--- its prolly just some simple non-centering diddlement.
were the lines on the splines diddled together correct-- check that out too- should be a marking on the teef.

diddle the steering wheel vertically first
diddle the marking on the forward shaft diddling the steering wheel
diddle the marking on the rearward sector shaft diddling the first shaft
diddle the set screws

sectors.jpg
 
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did you diddle the steering wheel --was the steering wheel centered to and fro -- left and right? you could plop out the sectors, center the steering wheel first- then re-attach the sectors and re-diddle them to your preference--- its prolly just some simple non-centering diddlement.
were the lines on the splines diddled together correct-- check that out too- should be a marking on the teef.

diddle the steering wheel vertically first
diddle the marking on the forward shaft diddling the steering wheel
diddle the marking on the rearward sector shaft diddling the first shaft
diddle the set screws

View attachment 119603
Everything is all lined up per shop manual. The shafts themselves are wobbling even when adjusted so tight the wheel binds - it just about HAS to be their bushings. I guess there's nothing for it but to pull the shafts and replace those bushings. Now to find a way to pump out all that pourable grease the box and tube are full of...
 
when you diddle them bushings, just clean em up- and find 'the seam' pry that seam open open with a 'soft metal cheapo flathead screw driver if thats possible --drove mine back in with a piece of pvc pipe if i recall
 
All the play seems to be limited to lateral in the arms, rather than radial.
Does this mean the sector shafts/gears are too worn?
Or did I screw the pooch by not replacing the bushings (which seemed snug enough on assembly)?
The drag links appear to not be tight on the steering sector shaft. I went back and looked they are loose as a goose. Those arms are tapper/interference fit either the sector spline is bad are the arms are.

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Bad Pitman Arm Symptoms, Plus FAQ - In The Garage with ...

A loose pitman arm can cause excessive play in the steering and potentially lead to dangerous handling issues. To address this, ensure the pitman arm is properly tightened to the steering box shaft, often requiring a large torque wrench and potentially red Loctite on the threads. If the arm is damaged or the taper is worn, it may need to be replaced.

You are beyond locktite.

When those arms are in good condition you will need a hefty puller to remove them. The amount of threads showing on the ends is also telling me the arms are shaft are worn out.

I am not a fan of this I get good parts and fix the issue.

 
Did you try the shaft in the bushings before it energy back together?

On mine those bushings did not have split you could pry open. Even if they did, wouldn’t opening them would make the shaft more loose?
 
Shaggy, ypu can buy small barbed fitting to screw into the fill port. Try to get one with a 1/4" barbed fitting. Attach a 1/4 piece of tubing. The remove the steering wheel, attach your shopvac to the top of the steering column with the hose BLOWING OUT. See if that will blow the grease out the fill hole. If the shopvac is not powerful enough, rig-up and adapter for your air compresser. But turn the regulator down LOW, I would start around 5PSI. Too much pressure will blow the top bearing out of the column.
 
Shaggy, ypu can buy small barbed fitting to screw into the fill port. Try to get one with a 1/4" barbed fitting. Attach a 1/4 piece of tubing. The remove the steering wheel, attach your shopvac to the top of the steering column with the hose BLOWING OUT. See if that will blow the grease out the fill hole. If the shopvac is not powerful enough, rig-up and adapter for your air compresser. But turn the regulator down LOW, I would start around 5PSI. Too much pressure will blow the top bearing out of the column.
Heh! Pushing it out sounds a lot more practical than trying to suck it out with a pump.
Outside the box is good...
Those bushings felt tight enough, but I really should have taken the arms off of the tractor and mounted them on the steering box on the bench.
Might have noticed before putting the whole shebang back together and expecting perfection...
 
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