880 bogs down, quits under load

[shorvat1]

The engine in my 880 runs like a top, but for the past year, it has sporadically bogged down and quit under load. If it starts sputtering and I am fast enough, I clutch and it gains a breath. If I am not fast enough, it just quits, in the blink of an eye. The load does not have to be heavy for this to occur. If I am just tooling around the yard at low speed, never a problem. Fuel is clean, so is sediment bulb. Is my carb signaling it needs a rebuild? Other things to consider? Thanks for any replies.

 

[ziffel]

Get some gas cans and drain the tank. Then remove the complete sediment bowl assembly. It should have a small tube on top that
extends up into the tank. It is meant to keep dirt from going down into the system. If that tube isn't there you need to replace
the assembly. Make certain it is clear as well as the rest of assembly. If it is dirty then dirt has gotten into the lines and
carb. All will need cleaning and the carb should be rebuilt. BUT now given the age of the tractor the tank is probably dirty.
Remove and clean. Remove and clean. If you are unable to do it take to radiator shop and have it "cooked" and checked for leaks.

 

[chucksoliver77]

try to run it with the gas cap loose, the vent may be plugged,

 

[scootergmc]

I have a small portable tank designed for motorcycle repairs that works great for situations just like this. Just unplug/plug at the carb and see if the problem continues. Of course, if it's a vent issue that's easy enough to diagnose as well.

 

[Olliejunkie]

First pull the plug on the bottom of carb bowl and see if you have constant fuel flow for a good 30 seconds.

 

[Olliejunkie]

I would check flow right after it stalls.

 

[mfitzpatrick2]

I have also had trouble with debris clogging fuel line inlet inside the tank.

As mentioned previously there should be a small tube extending above the bottom slightly.

Without the stand tube and even with it, just one piece of crap can restrict/stop the flow.

My solution has been to install a stand tube made of copper tube or brake line into the top sediment bowl or if not equipped with a bowl I will
install in the bottom fitting.

You may need to drill the bowl or fitting to fit the tube tight enough to require tapping in with hammer or if loose you can solder or epoxy

The key to this is to pinch the top of the tube mostly closed and drill several cross holes above bottom level of tank. This allows the fuel multiple
pathways instead of just one hole in the top. One hole means one piece of crap can shut you down.

This has served me very well over the years especially when you need to get it running and removing the tank for a thorough cleaning will take too
long or the tank can't be removed.

 

[pcrh]

Hi:

I had a similar problem on a 1550. Tractor ran great but would for no particular reason suddenly bog down and most often quit. Then start right up like there was no problem. I chased that problem for a while, checking fuel flow (great) looking for dirty fuel, bad fuel, etc. I was going to rebuild the carburetor when I decided to try as scootergmc suggested. I rigged up 2 gallon fuel tank directly to the carb and not a problem until the 2 gallons were gone.

Long story short, I eventually found a piece of clear plastic in the tank which would slosh around until it obstructed the fuel flow. When the tractor stopped it would float away. Because it was clear I could not see it until I put an led light into the tank and moved the fuel around.

Do the easy test first. Find a way to connect an alternate source of fuel to test carb.

Hope that helps.