Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
I wouldn't say most SOS parts are available from CNH. But the last I wanted one, the entire PTO control assy still was. That was a couple years ago or better and it cost roughly $260.00 back then IIRC. Hesitate to think what the going price might be today.
I coudn't find it at CNH but found some other parts that I need, one of the salvage yards wants $200.+ shipping,I haven't taken off the cover of the trans. to look at the other end of this cable but I wonder if there is another way of repairing this, my cable broke off at the end of the knob assembly and the threads on the end of the knob assembly look stripped ,right now the pto is staying engaged, another salvage yard said leave it like it is but would that hurt anything ?
NWMO 901 SOS
Well-known Member
Mike,
You don't have to remove the cover to get the PTO cable out. Pages 276 and 277 in the shop manual cover it well. Basically you can loosen the fittings and turn the cable counter clockwise to remove. Where yours broke (at the base of the knob), I would be tempted to shorten the conduit, find a new way to attach the PTO knob and go with it.
For safety reasons I would not leave it powered all the time.
Chris
A close friend of mine has a 2000 LCG with S-O-S. He's one of those guys to whom you simply cannot offer advice because he already knows EVERYTHING.
A few years ago he wanted to remove the top cover of the S-O-S for some reason but refused to listen to my advice or even drive 1 1/2 miles to borrow my service manual. Of course, he ruined his PTO cable. He then ran over the conduit and ruined it too. He wired the PTO valve into the "ON" position because he "didn't like turning it on and off all the time, anyway."
He also converted his tractor to 12V using parts that he had on hand. Because he did not know how to hook up the Park Start switch and did not want my advice, he simply eliminated it because "he didn't want to have to shift to Park to start the engine."
His electrical skills are limited so he often has electrical problems despite my advice. It is common for one or more of the battery cables to be loose resulting in a no start condition because "he wants to be able to remove the battery cables when he shuts down so that the alternator does not discharge the battery. Of course, he ignored my advice about how to to properly wire the alternator so that this did not happen.
Did I mention that he already knows everything?
Several years ago, he parked the tractor to remove his (always on) bush hog and install his back blade. After positioning the tractor to install the blade, he shut the engine off leaving the selector in 5th. After mounting the blade, the tractor would not crank so he wiggled the cables at the battery as he routinely did because the clamps were intentionally loose. When this did not help, he then got off the tractor to wiggle the battery cable attached to the solenoid, which was also loose (because "he wanted it that way"). While doing so, he was kneeling in front of the left side (dual 8.4x24) tires.
After appropriate wiggling of the battery cable, he reached up to "bump" the key (key start, after conversion to 12V, because "that's the way Ford should have made it") to see if it would crank and start. It would, and it did. Remember, the selector is in 5th gear and the Park start switch has been disabled because "he didn't want to have to shift to Park to start the engine."
Before he could get out of the way the tractor knocked him from his kneeling position and proceeded to drive completely over him, the (fortunately dual and unloaded) tires passing over his chest and neck and just missing his jaw.
Of course, the lift lever was in the Down position so the black blade now caught him and dragged him for a few feet before discharging him to the side (blade was angled) like a pile of gravel. The tractor then proceeded to the side of the house where it dug a hole for awhile before he could drag himself over to it to shut it off.
He survived with injuries that mostly cleared up within a year or so but things would hve been different had he not just removed the bush hog. Remember, the PTO valve was (and still is) wired On.
Of course, he still has not rewired any of the safety features on his tractor because "it's like he wants it."
Dean
A few years ago he wanted to remove the top cover of the S-O-S for some reason but refused to listen to my advice or even drive 1 1/2 miles to borrow my service manual. Of course, he ruined his PTO cable. He then ran over the conduit and ruined it too. He wired the PTO valve into the "ON" position because he "didn't like turning it on and off all the time, anyway."
He also converted his tractor to 12V using parts that he had on hand. Because he did not know how to hook up the Park Start switch and did not want my advice, he simply eliminated it because "he didn't want to have to shift to Park to start the engine."
His electrical skills are limited so he often has electrical problems despite my advice. It is common for one or more of the battery cables to be loose resulting in a no start condition because "he wants to be able to remove the battery cables when he shuts down so that the alternator does not discharge the battery. Of course, he ignored my advice about how to to properly wire the alternator so that this did not happen.
Did I mention that he already knows everything?
Several years ago, he parked the tractor to remove his (always on) bush hog and install his back blade. After positioning the tractor to install the blade, he shut the engine off leaving the selector in 5th. After mounting the blade, the tractor would not crank so he wiggled the cables at the battery as he routinely did because the clamps were intentionally loose. When this did not help, he then got off the tractor to wiggle the battery cable attached to the solenoid, which was also loose (because "he wanted it that way"). While doing so, he was kneeling in front of the left side (dual 8.4x24) tires.
After appropriate wiggling of the battery cable, he reached up to "bump" the key (key start, after conversion to 12V, because "that's the way Ford should have made it") to see if it would crank and start. It would, and it did. Remember, the selector is in 5th gear and the Park start switch has been disabled because "he didn't want to have to shift to Park to start the engine."
Before he could get out of the way the tractor knocked him from his kneeling position and proceeded to drive completely over him, the (fortunately dual and unloaded) tires passing over his chest and neck and just missing his jaw.
Of course, the lift lever was in the Down position so the black blade now caught him and dragged him for a few feet before discharging him to the side (blade was angled) like a pile of gravel. The tractor then proceeded to the side of the house where it dug a hole for awhile before he could drag himself over to it to shut it off.
He survived with injuries that mostly cleared up within a year or so but things would hve been different had he not just removed the bush hog. Remember, the PTO valve was (and still is) wired On.
Of course, he still has not rewired any of the safety features on his tractor because "it's like he wants it."
Dean
I don't know what has been bypassed on this one ,I bought it several months ago and had been trying to buy this for 3-4 years,I just like the old tractors , don't know if that was a good thing or not
intake was leaking,had hydraulic leak , now p/s pump and gas tank leaking - ordered parts on ebay to repair these, now the pto cable
when I get through I hope thats all for a while ,49 years old you are going to have some problems, one day hope to show at flywheelers
intake was leaking,had hydraulic leak , now p/s pump and gas tank leaking - ordered parts on ebay to repair these, now the pto cable
when I get through I hope thats all for a while ,49 years old you are going to have some problems, one day hope to show at flywheelers
Superturbodiesel
Member
************************************************************
Dean,
Well, I'm not sure how to say this politely, so I probably shouldn't say anything at all. However, I'm a pretty brutally honest guy, so I'm going to say what I think anyhow... Sounds to me like your "know-it-all" friend is a real IDIOT that should not be allowed to run ANY type of equipment or machinery - EVER. I mean really, good lord man!
Bet he likes the saying "it won't happen to me", doesn't he?
As the saying goes, "there's a _ _ _ _ _ _ _ (enter your own explicative) born every day".
Boy, I'm sure glad I'm not one of 'em. LOL!
Have a good one!
Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
Shortening the conduit?????? The the conduit is the length it is because of the relationship of the PTO control to the top cover. If you change the length of the conduit, you'll really screw things up!!!!
NWMO 901 SOS
Well-known Member
Good Morning Mike and Larry,
I have replaced my PTO cable condiut with some thinner brass conduit from Westlake and it works fine.
IF Mike's cable broke at the base of the PTO handle, then the cable is some small distance shorter than original (say 1" for arguments sake). IF the handle can be reattached to the cable (surely a way) and a replacement conduit is shortened the equal length (1"), the relationship of the PTO control to the top cover would be maintained and should work fine.
Now, it may be difficult to take the assumed (1") out and still have the cable move freely (may have to have a sharper curve on the shorter conduit), but for a few dollars at Westlake and a couple of hours of time, I'd sure give it a shot before I forked out hundreds of dollars.
I agree, it would be best not to try and shorten the orginal conduit as they are heavier and not easy to find.
Chris
Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
I'll say it again: Don't shorten the conduit. That cable is plenty long enough that if shortening it a bit will make it work - fine. But leave the conduit alone.
NWMO 901 SOS
Well-known Member
Hello Mike,
Westlake is probably a more local name, it is our ACE Hardware store. I will defer to Larry and recommend trying the cable in your existing conduit. The PTO cable is long enough that you may still have sufficient length to get where you need, but keep the cable as long as you possibly can when modifying the PTO knob attachment.
If that doesn't work, post back and maybe Larry can explain where shortening both the cable (already shortened due to the break) and conduit plan becomes a problem. As for the replacement conduit, I think I just carried my original in and found something with nearly the same OD, but a thinner sidewall. This allows bending more easily, though you still have to take your time to avoid any kinks. The only reason I replaced my original conduit is it got to where it was very difficult to slide the cable in it, even after cleaning, etc. I think it got a burr in it or ?? At any rate, it slides free and easy in the new conduit.
Chris
Larry or Chris
the cable is long enough but I am having the same problems with it not wanting to slide easy in the tubing ,there isn"t any kinks that I can see,without the tubing I can engage and disengage the pto easy,I can"t find brass tubing anywhere around here ,would it hurt to use copper ?
thanks for all the help !!
the cable is long enough but I am having the same problems with it not wanting to slide easy in the tubing ,there isn"t any kinks that I can see,without the tubing I can engage and disengage the pto easy,I can"t find brass tubing anywhere around here ,would it hurt to use copper ?
thanks for all the help !!
Larry NCKS
Well-known Member
copper is pretty soft material. Are you sure it's the cable sliding in the cube that's binding, or is it the handle in the body?
NWMO 901 SOS
Well-known Member
Mike,
Glad to hear your cable is long enough. I would try and find something besides copper. I never could see any problems with my original conduit, but the cable just wouldn't move freely. Might try something with a little larger ID as bending can easily turn your circular cross section into a shorter oval that may cause problems.
Chris
Glad to hear your cable is long enough. I would try and find something besides copper. I never could see any problems with my original conduit, but the cable just wouldn't move freely. Might try something with a little larger ID as bending can easily turn your circular cross section into a shorter oval that may cause problems.
Chris
the cable , the handle moves easy
someone gave me a number today of a man that restores old automobiles and tractors not too far from me, I am going to call him tomorrow and see if he has any tubing or where I can get it when I get this straightened out I have some power steering pump problems that I hope you and the others can help me with
thanks again for all your help !
Mike
someone gave me a number today of a man that restores old automobiles and tractors not too far from me, I am going to call him tomorrow and see if he has any tubing or where I can get it when I get this straightened out I have some power steering pump problems that I hope you and the others can help me with
thanks again for all your help !
Mike
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