8N - C

[Linda R]

I am looking for the oil filter number or size or brand for our 8N-C.

 

[Royse]

Welcome to the forum!
If it still has the original canister style filter you can find it
right [b:11404d080c]here[/b:11404d080c] on our host's website.
If it has a spin-on oil filter conversion, they have them too.
So will your local car parts store.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

See tip # 64. You have a number of options & can find them at nearly any auto parts store.

Also check out tip # 39.
75 Tips

 

[kossuth]

(quoted from post at 18:47:03 07/23/21) I am looking for the oil filter number or size or brand for our 8N-C.

ll just make this easy for you assuming it has the OE setup (it should). New Holland part number 86546605. If you dont have a New Holland dealer near your local Napa might stock the filter needed (call first). Baldwin part number TWD P40. There is also a Napa gold cross also (usually made by Wix) FIL 1010. Regardless make sure whichever you get make sure it has the o-ring.

 

[kossuth]

Forgot to add given this will likely be the next question. Tractor takes 6 quarts.

As for oil type that is a huge debate. In short SAE 30 is the appropriate OE fill. With that said the engine condition has a lot to do with it. I usually run 10w40. With that said a lot of guys run 15w40 diesel oil without issue. If you have a particularly tired engine 20w50 can be used. TBH your oil pressure when warm kinda dictates what you run. Run whatever will get you over 20 psi when the engine is warm with the RPMs up. If you have no idea what was in it prior Id put 10w40 in it and see what your oil pressure looks like when its warmed up.

 

[kossuth]

Double post

This post was edited by kossuth on 07/24/2021 at 06:17 am.

 

[Linda R]

Thank you so much for the welcome and the oil filter sizes. It is still the original canister type. The oil is black sludge and we need to change it before we put her to work. Most likely will change the transmission fluid as well to make sure she can work properly.

 

[Linda R]

Thank you I had researched and knew the 6 quarts but thank you for confirming that, as well as 30 weight, and that additives are ok. 10 - 40 is easier to find than 30 so if we cannot find it then will go with your suggestion of 10-40

 

[kossuth]

(quoted from post at 08:12:11 07/24/21) Thank you so much for the welcome and the oil filter sizes. It is still the original canister type. The oil is black sludge and we need to change it before we put her to work. Most likely will change the transmission fluid as well to make sure she can work properly.

f you didnt already know the tranny holds 5ish gallons of oil (if shes been sitting likely some water too). There are three plugs. If you lack a super huge oil catch can with a huge opening (many do) I suggest start your drain on the rear most plug which is supposed to be a square headed 3/4 (I believe thats what it is anyways) NPT pipe plug. A lot easier and slower of a drain than the other 2x 2 plugs. If you have a big barrel to drain into then disregard the above.

Also transmission oil is another debate on here. Most go with GL1 which is basically either 80 or 90 wt mineral oil. Some also run the New Holland oil (myself included) and thats ok but keep in mind if any seals/gaskets are questionable the New Holland oil will leak. TBH the transmissions/Hydraulics are pretty resilient in these old things. The big thing is keep oil in it and keep water out. If you have a torn/missing shifter boot you need to get that repaired (number 1 way water gets in).

If you have a problem sourcing GL1 or the New Holland oil locally Id likely order it in. Yeah that might get expensive and you might have to wait but heres what Im getting at. Some folks have run GL4 or GL5 oil in these (very common and very good modern gear oils) but some including myself get alittle nervous about that. Steel on steel wear isnt the concern its some of the other components which are yellow metal (brass, copper, bronze) Basically you need to make sure the oil is compatable with yellow metals. Reason being is there are several areas in the tractor that rely on these metals (hydraulic being first to mind). Reason why you dont want to use just any GL4-5 is there are lubrication properties that attach themselves to ferrous materials. In the case of yellow metals it cause the yellow metal to actually detach itself from the base material given its softer than steel. A lot of case studies done on the damage GL4-5 will do to a the brass syncros in modern manual transmissions and transfer cases in the automotive world. Some GL4-5 oils are yellow metal safe but that is a case by case vendor by vendor deal.

 

[560Dennis]

I get GL1 from NAPA
Sae 90

 

[Linda R]

Thank you and no on the tranny I did not know how much oil and that will be a big help. I will print this out as I did the 75 tips and start a notebook on the tractor. All advice is appreciated and taken seriously. I have forgotten a lot over the years and while we have had a Ford tractor before, I have misplaced or the info is in unpacked boxes. We bought a house on an unmaintained road (private drive) and VA would only loan if we would maintain our section of road to the access point about a 1/4 mile. We loved the house so since the road has a serious pothole situation. A tractor and scrape blade was needed. We may be elderly but we both grew up on farms and know how to drive them and while I can rake, mow and bail hay, have never scraped a road. lol I am willing to learn. Thank you for your answers

 

[kossuth]

Thats what the forum is for and why we help out where we can. With that said I would strongly urge picking up a service manual for the machine (either I&T or Ford) and pickup a reprint of the original owners manual at a minimum.

We will gladly help out as forum members but those will get you a lot more service data when something breaks (it will) that youll need.

 

[Duner Wi]

5 gal pail from Napa part # 65-205 or 65205

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 18:47:03 07/23/21) I am looking for the oil filter number or size or brand for our 8N-C.

What is an 8N-[color=red:fd80521a21]C[/color:fd80521a21] ? What's the C for?

 

[Den N Ms]

(quoted from post at 22:06:20 07/24/21)

(quoted from post at 18:47:03 07/23/21) I am looking for the oil filter number or size or brand for our 8N-C.

What is an 8N-[color=red:74e07eabbc]C[/color:74e07eabbc] ? What's the C for?

There is a casting number on the starter pocket such as 8N ,8NB or 8NC for the later model.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

FORD N-Series Engine Oil Filter is part number 9N-6731, and the FRAM C3P, or equivalent. You can choose what grade of oil you want to use --- 5 quarts less filter absorption, SAE-30 typical. Some posted GL1 oil and this IS NOT for engine oil. GL1 or equiv is for the hydraulic system. Drain from crankcase on underneath pan, furthest most towards front of tractor. Use a new gasket. Filler neck tube on LH side of engine. The ESSENTIAL MANUALS are your friends.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR (before S/N 263843) LH ENGINE w/OIL FILTER HSG & OIL FILLER TUBE:

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Means relatively nothing of importance.


Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 05:13:04 07/25/21) Means relatively nothing of importance.


Tim Daley(MI)

I've had my 8N for around 20 years, also been on this forum for about the same time and this thread is the first I've ever heard of that 8N-C referred to. :wink:

 

[Linda R]

I love the photos. That helps a lot. The plate where yours says 1213? I think it is, ours is so blurred it is hard to read. Ours looks like yours only according to the C is a much later model. I love how everyone is helping and I assumed the C would be important possibly. I have printed out most of the material provided and if ok I will print out these photos to go in our notebook for reference. I will get a manual when I can.

 

[Linda R]

I thought it might be important. lol Apparently not.

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 18:10:51 07/25/21) I thought it might be important. lol Apparently not.

It tells us that you have a late model 8N, or at least the engine,
which is important because there were a lot of changes between
the early models and the later models!
For the oil filter, as far as I know, they remained the same.

 

[Caryc]

(quoted from post at 17:21:23 07/25/21)

(quoted from post at 18:10:51 07/25/21) I thought it might be important. lol Apparently not.

It tells us that you have a late model 8N, or at least the engine,
which is important because there were a lot of changes between
the early models and the later models!
For the oil filter, as far as I know, they remained the same.

Hmmm...I've got all the manuals on the 8N and nowhere in any of them does it mention anything about any letter after 8N.

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 21:22:39 07/25/21)

(quoted from post at 17:21:23 07/25/21)

(quoted from post at 18:10:51 07/25/21) I thought it might be important. lol Apparently not.

It tells us that you have a late model 8N, or at least the engine,
which is important because there were a lot of changes between
the early models and the later models!
For the oil filter, as far as I know, they remained the same.

Hmmm...I've got all the manuals on the 8N and nowhere in any of them does it mention anything about any letter after 8N.

Cary, the model number did not change, they were the same.
But, the engines did, and the casting numbers did too.

 

[zuhnc]

Mine is a 1951, with 8N-C cast into the block near the starter. I ascribed no particular importance to it, other than a later model. Makes no difference for parts, best I can tell. zuhnc

 

[Louis A]

Mine is a 1951, with 8N-C cast into the block near the starter. I ascribed no particular importance to it, other than a later model. Makes no difference for parts, best I can tell. zuhnc

The 8N-C block came with cast iron cylinder sleeves from the factory while the 8N-B block came with steel sleeves from the factory. That is the reason for the casting code change.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Again, means nothing today since all cylinder liners made and sold are the cast iron ones. FWIW and FYI: The 'B' and 'C' blocks had other changes and the correct ID characteristics of steel and cast iron sleeves was in the engine block stamped serial numbers. The STAR prefix and suffix in the serial numbers for all FORD vehicles since BEFORE 1931 thru 1950 was to designate that steel cylinder sleeves were installed. When FORD changed to cast iron sleeves, the serial numbers then had a DIAMOND prefix and suffix stamped on. This info is also included in a few books on FORD. The big question is why did FORD need to stamp the blocks to ID steel sleeves? I have my own theory that they knew steel was a poor choice and had been attempting to make cast iron sleeves but lacked the technology to make a seamless one til spin casting came along.


FORD VEHICLE ENGINE BLOCK SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Leroy]

All I have used for years is 10-40. This is in cars, trucks and Ford, John Deere and Farmall tractors.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

CLARIFICATION: Don't worry, B, C, D, E, F, G, or Z means nothing important about the 8N function. Linda, the original 8N was produced beginning in July, 1947, and the engine blocks had a Date Code ID Tag cast right into the block on the starter pocket when they poured each day. I believe this method started after the war in 1945. This had a system of marking where the first character was a letter, A thru L that defined the month: JAN = A; FEB = B; etc. Next was a one or two digit number, 1 thru 31 to define the day of the month. Last was a single digit to define the year --- '7' = 1947; '8' = 1948; etc. Then they decided to change to the '8N-B' block and eventually eliminate the date code ID tag. Your hydraulic pump may also have this date code ID tag on it as well as the axle shaft. Now, all that means relatively nothing as well as trying to pinpoint model year, and the important things are to know on an 8N are: 4-SPD trans; POSITION CONTROL (only on 8N and up); Front Mount Distributor (early 47-50 or later side mount, 50-52); 6V/POS GRN Electrical; Early or Later (after 1950) Steering Box; and Proofmeter - added in 1950. These are the major important items you need to know and unless you have an early 8N Model you plan on restoring to full OEM specs, a s/n and/or a date code ID tag mean nothing. Add to the fly in the ointment too is a lot of blocks got swapped out with other tractors, including some 9N and 2N units. Best to invest in THE ESSENTIAL MANUALS and you can learn about early and late parts. No manuals will explain the date code and s/n nomenclature other than all 9N, 2N, and early 8N's used the front mount distributor, 8N's til s/n 8N-263843, and the later 8N's used the angle (side) mount distributor from 8N-263844 on til end of production in early 1952. Be aware too that Casting Date Code ID Tags are totally different and have nothing to do per say with the hand stamped serial numbers that were applied after the engine was fully assembled and tested. Tags were made and set on the block sand casting then poured. They would be changed out each day to define the date of the month. Note that ID Tags have cast-raised characters and a serial number is stamped, by hand, in recessed characters. There is a big difference. Regardless of one or both, the tags mean relatively nothing unless doing a full restoration, and/or you seek bragging rights to your tractor. A s/n will be helpful when registering to a board that supplies a list of owner ID info, and for your insurance company policy. Don't sweat the petty stuff and don't pet the sweaty stuff... ; > )

TIM DALEY, EARLY FORD 8N ENGINE DATE CODE ID TAG; SEP 16, 1947:

FORD 8N TRACTOR ENGINE BLOCK DATE CODE ID TAG; JAN 3, 1950:

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER, OPERATOR, PARTS, & SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Linda R]

Every one of you is so awesome to take the time to respond to me. I have learned so much. I have printed out most of it. I have two more questions. Wayne picked up a filter at Lowes and a 5 qt jug of oil. Will this filter work? It doesn't look like the photos. CH10295 Fram? Also I am trying to read the serial number think it might be A 372? Now if I can figure out uploading photos lol

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

No, Linda, that is NOT the correct oil filter for a FORD N-Series Tractor. As I stated below, the FORD part number is 9N-6731 and is a good number to use no matter
where you buy from. Try the parts suppliers on this site for one. The FRAM C3P is the equivalent of the FORD one and can be found locally at any auto parts outlet. I
wouldn't shop at Lowes personally for tractor parts. Heck, even that popular retailer that calls itself a tractor supplier may have them. Me? I shop at nnalert. There
is also an important special fiber washer gasket under the top bolt that secures the lid onto the oil filter housing. Without it you will leak oil out. You can get it
as well as the filter at nnalert see link. There is a large round, flat rubber gasket, p/n 9N-6885, that seals under the lid and also must be in place. The FRAM C3P
unit includes this gasket but I cant vouch for cheaper brands. Ive bought some generic ones that didnt come with one. The old gasket must be removed completely
before the new one is inserted. Take a dab or two of clean fresh oil and cover the new gasket before inserting. Oil capacity is 5 quarts less filter absorption.
HELPFUL HINT: When new oil is poured in, only pour 2-3 quarts in then start tractor up and observe if there are any leaks, especially under the lid and around the
housing. You really need to invest in the ESSENTIAL MANUALS. The 39-52 MPC has all the part numbers and sketches to boot.

FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR OIL FILTER; P/N 9N-6731:

*NOTE: THE FRAM C3P IS A POPULAR BRAND READILY AVAILABLE.

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)
OIL FILTER LID TOP BOLT GASKET

 

[Ken(Ark)]

That ch10295 will not work . 2008ish Toyota truck .

As Tim has pointed out , Casting numbers , tags , etc tell you what was originally produced but not what the current status is . Your block may have had the sleeves removed and oversized pistons installed with no sleeves , aftermarket sleeves installed ( which could make the block impractical to rebuild ) different sized oil pumps or other parts could have been re machined to any block because that's what they had to work with at the time .

A lot of people order complete rebuilt kits and have no problem . Some order parts and they will not fit . Some order parts and find out the block is not salvageable and the whole project will now cost twice the value of the finished project ( after they have purchased $1000 in parts / machine work )

 

[Linda R]

Thank you, after measuring I did take it back and I ordered a Wix 51010. He should have it by Thursday and can change the oil then. He wasn't to happy but told him the experts said to use the correct one. LOL I know you had not answered yet but I figured that one out on my own. I also ordered him a new ignition key system since he has to jiggle the key. I want to make sure when I get on it to drive that it all works. lol :lol: