8N CONDENSOR

[M.W.SIMMONS]

Hey yall it's me again. My 8n still wont start and i was wandering if the condensor is bad will that stop it from having a spark?
I have change out points, coil, wires, plugs, rotor and cap even a new distributor and still no spark.

PLEASE HELP

 

[Sean (TX)]

Getting power to the coil? front or side mount dist.?

 

[JMOR]

It's a possibility, but not high failure rate item.
What's the voltage at the coil terminal with points closed and with points open?

 

[M.W.SIMMONS]

It's a front mount distributor and its a 12v. i have 4v at the coil. everything is good i just can't get spark

 

[M.W.SIMMONS]

It's a front mount distributor and its a 12v. i have 4v at the coil. everything is good i just can't get spark

 

[JMOR]

OK, you've got 4 volts at the coil, supposedly when the points are closed. If it stays at 4 volts when points are open, then you've probably got a short in the distributor. It ought to go to 12 v when points open. What's it go to?

 

[old]

Pull the cap off, rotor and dust cover. Then reach in with the switch turned on and open and close the points. Listen close you should here a little snap every time you open the points. If you don't then the points are dirty or you have a short some place. By the way brand new points can be dirty right out of the box and should be cleaned with a piece of card board etc. when you install them. If you take the coil off to get the cap off put the coil back on or you will not be able to check for that snap sound. Had that problem on my 9N not long ago and after doing that to it, it has start up with no problem. Don't know why it made a difference but it did
Hobby farm

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Yea, you could have a bad condenser......and, if you buy a ticket, you could win the lottery.

No spark from a frontmount has a few simple causes. Like Old sez below, stretch the pig tail on the coil. If that does not work, check for continuity inside the distributor w/ a meter or test light. It is very easy to ground the wire to the condenser when you replace the points. Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Points do slip closed! Make sure you have the star washer under the screws on the points.

 

[A. Bohemian]

You mention 4 volts at the coil, but don"t say whether this is constant or varies when you crank.

If you CONSTANTLY have a steady four volts at the coil when cranking, your points are shorted or not opening properly or there is a short elsewhere in the system.

If the voltmeter shows the full twelve volts with the points open, and four volts when the points are closed, the problem could well be the condensor, but more likely in the coil connections to the secondary.

You can get these answers INSTANTLY, EFFORTLESSLY and DIRECTLY by watching your dashboard ammeter. It"s difficult to say how much discharge your meter will read with the ignition on and engine at rest, but it should be in the ballpark of three amps IF the twelve-volt conversion was done correctly.

If you have three amps, crank. The meter should fluctuate as the points open and close. No fluctuation, no spark.