8N Distributor

[ROADMAN]

Learned a lesson about ATF and Diesil Fuel for unsticking parts. Don't soak them in a plastic ice cream container. It will desolve the container and make a real mess. Just enjoy the ice cream and throw away the container or use it for parts. That said, my distributor, 1950 side mount is stuck in the housing. I have let it soak for a week in ATF and Diesil fuel and it is still stuck. Will it hurt anything to put heat to the cast housing and try to get it loose?

Clay

 

[Bob]

"Will it hurt anything to put heat to the cast housing and try to get it loose?"

That depends upon HOW much heat you apply!

 

[ROADMAN1]

Yep. I know not to put my blow torch to it. I have one of those cheap hand held torch that doesn't put out a lot of heat. I was going to just heat it up a little and see if it would loosen it up. Just wondering if a little heat would hurt the cast housing.

Clay

 

[ROADMAN1]

Yep. I know not to put my blow torch to it. I have one of those cheap hand held torch that doesn't put out a lot of heat. I was going to just heat it up a little and see if it would loosen it up. Just wondering if a little heat would hurt the cast housing.

Clay

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 12:14:41 06/30/11) Yep. I know not to put my blow torch to it. I have one of those cheap hand held torch that doesn't put out a lot of heat. I was going to just heat it up a little and see if it would loosen it up. Just wondering if a little heat would hurt the cast housing.

Clay

luminun gives little to no warning as to when it is about to melt, so you just have to be extra cautious.

 

[old]

Have you tried the strap wrench?? Also a bit of light tapping from below and a piece of wood like a hammer handle may help also

 

[ROADMAN1]

Yep. Tried the strap wrench like you suggested about a week ago. Let it set another week in ATF and diesel and tried it again. Lightly tapped on the gear with a small hammer and chisel. No luck. This thing is really stuck. My next option is heat but I wanted to ask you guys is it would hurt the housing. Also, it may be cheaper to break the housing away from the distributor and replace the housing rather than but a new distributor. Any advise will be appreciated.

Clay

 

[old]

In the case yes heat may help but remember the engine block is cast iron and if you heat it to hot it can crack due to uneven heating but it would probably take a lot of heat to do that.

 

[ROADMAN1]

Old: I have it off the engine. Its just the distributor and the housing. Got everything freed up on the engine except for that. I put it in my vice to work on it. I guess heat is the next option.

Clay

 

[old]

Ya it would be a shame if you broke the block trying to get the distributor out of it

 

[jtwat]

Heat will not hurt the housing as long as you don't get it too hot. Keep your torch moving around the housing as you heat it and try to turn the shaft before is cools.

 

[36 Coupe]

Why do you want to remove the distributor?

 

[Bob]

It's kinda tough to set the timing when they are stuck tight to the timing cover!

 

[Bob]

I believe the distributor is stuffed into the aluminum timing gear cover????

 

[36 Coupe]

What makes you ASSume the timing is off?

 

[36 Coupe]

If its aluminum it will melt at 1000 degrees.

 

[old]

Not sure on that and can not look since my late 1950 8N is over at a friends but if it is why can't he remove that part and free it that way

 

[Bob]

What makes you ASSume the timing will be "spot on" when he reassembles the engine, starts it, and checks the timing? Better to free it up NOW than after the engine is reassembled!

 

[36 Coupe]

I have put a timing light on many engines.My 640 was right on.On cars and trucks I used the timing lite to make sure the spark advance was working.Steel and aluminum will stick fast to each other.Heating aluminum will get him in trouble.In any case the owner does not have the skill to free this up with out breaking or melting something.

 

[ROADMAN1]

Just read all the post this morning. I appreciate all the response. I sure the distributor should come out of the housing. After soaking with ATF, I finally got the shaft to turn by tapping lightly on the gear. Still can't get the distributor to turn. I will try a little heat tonight and see if it will free up. I would have never thought that steel would stick to aluminimum like this.

Thanks for all the help. You guys are the best.

Clay

 

[Bob]

"Steel and aluminum will stick fast to each other."

Actually, I believe it's an aluminum distributor stuck in an aluminum timingcover. (Which is probably even WORSE!)

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 08:42:06 07/01/11) Just read all the post this morning. I appreciate all the response. I sure the distributor should come out of the housing. After soaking with ATF, I finally got the shaft to turn by tapping lightly on the gear. Still can't get the distributor to turn. I will try a little heat tonight and see if it will free up. I would have never thought that steel would stick to aluminimum like this.

Thanks for all the help. You guys are the best.

Clay

his isn't going to make you feel any better, but a rarher amazing testament to the strength of corrosion. I saw a forklift chained to the distributor of a V8 to try to get distributor out & as more & more lift was applied, the entire front end of the car was lifted off the ground (by the distributor) and distributor remained stuck in the engine.

 

[ROADMAN1]

Yep Bob you are right. It is aluminimum to aluiminum. If I can't get it loose, I guess I will have to buy a distributor and the cover. It's not looking good to save either one.

Clay