8n ford will not start

[glyn]

50 model 8N side distributor will not start.

Have changed the following items: valve job last summer, new wiring, new distributor, new carburetor, new coil, new points, condensor, rotor cap, plugs checked good and in correct firing order, checked compression #1 80, #2 80, #3 80, #4 87. Checked engine timing 3 different times, Checked voltage, ignition switch to the coil through ballast resistor, Have power through coil to distributor. While cranking I can see spark through the points. Have spark at all spark plugs while cranking. Backfires through the tail pipe while cranking. Fuel in carburetor coming out the drain in a steady stream. Help! Any suggestions appreciated.

 

[Den N Ms]

Fuel in carburetor coming out the drain in a steady stream.
The carb needle and float may be sticking open.try tapping the carb with a big screw driver handle to get it to seat.Also a exhaust valve could be sticking open thus back fire out the exhaust pipe.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

6v or 12v?
75 Tips

 

[Steinkamp sales]

Pull wire from distributor to coil out of distributor and hold it close to block with a screwdriver or something insulated. Take another screwdriver and manually open and close points with ignition on. You should see a blue spark if all is well. If not, clean points with super fine sandpaper, such as 1000grit. If spark is good, recheck timing or firing order. Good luck

 

[glyn]

its a 12volt system

 

[jon corbett]

did u lube cylinders after reassembly?.pull plugs.little oil in all cylinders,spin couple times -reinstall plugs and should start.these are updraft motors.cylinders must have a oil seal to make suction to pull fuel to plugs.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Why are you using a ballast resistor on a side coil? See tip # 30. Remove it.
75 Tips

 

[glyn roe]

Thanks everyone who replied. I've tried the suggestions and nothing so far.

I retimed the engine and found it to be out by 180 degrees. Tried to start and at least now it is trying to start but does not go ahead and start. So I advanced the distributor while cranking. It helped but I ran out of room in the adjusting slot of the distributor. Removed the distributor, loosened clamping collar base of distributor and advanced the housing but still not enough. Still more room in the slot. I will have to keep adjusting it until it is in correct position. Will let you know the outcome.

 

[Jim L WA]

Sounds like your close. The sure fired way, is to remove number 1 plug, bump crank engine with your finger in the plug hole until you hear/feel the piston come up on top dead center on compression stroke. Then install the distributor so the rotor is pointing at the number one plug wire on the cap. Then you can fine adjust the timing to spec.

 

[glyn roe]

i use a blade screwdriver and rotate flywheel until it lines up with 4 degrees before center. then install dist with rotor cap pointing to #1 plug wire. it tries to start but not quite.i try to advance it gets better but run out room in dist slot to go futher i tried to losen the clamp around the dist housing. and advance the housing to gain more room in the slot, trial and error. someone questioned why i have a ballas resistor in the coil from terminal block to the coil i bought a new coil and it states must use resistor. i couldn't find a coil with internal resistor. ill keepyouall informed thanks

 

[Bruce (VA)]

You need to start over. Sounds like you're 'one tooth out'.

Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o'clock position & the stud at 9 o'clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips

 

[glyn roe]

This an update to my original post "8N will not start". I pulled the intake manifold no obstruction there. Seems like fuel is not getting to cylinders. I sprayed starter fluid in to the intake of the carburetor, still no start. No difference. I pulled the valve covers off, checked valves and all have excessive clearance. Pulled the head off, leak checked each valve, no leaks noted. I have readjusted valve clearances. I am wondering why the adjustments for the valves bolt is backing off. These are new rotating adjustable lifters and valves. Only has maybe 2 hours total run time after valve job. My question now is how to stop adjusting bolt in lifter from backing off. Any replies would be greatly appreciated and thank everyone who has replied before. Will update as I have them. Thanks