8n front distributor timing

[pierce]

new 8N front distributor (old one had badly worn shaft), new points, new 12V coil... if I static time it per the various instructions, using a ruler relative to the screw holes, it ends up all the way at one extreme, and the coil center spring contact doesn't reach the big brass screw very well.

the gap is set correctly. so how do I fix this? should I try bending the points some and readjust it all ?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Did you replace the bushings?
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[pierce]

(quoted from post at 16:05:29 07/05/14) Did you replace the bushings?
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I replaced the whole distributor as the old one was very beat up and ancient and falling apart. I don't any sort of bench press to do a bushing install.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

If it is a new distributor, then the bushings are fine.

What brand points?

Unless you got an off-shore distributor, quality points & setting the timing correctly should not result in the plate moving that far.

Try to time it once more, like this:

Get a meter or test light, a 21/64” drill bit (*** see below) & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole. (this will be your reference point for measuring) . Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the I&T FO4 manual. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ¼" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open. (get your meter/light out now & check) If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing. (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard) Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4* of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ¼" setting. (if the plate won’t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you’re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forwards (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ¼" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.


*** Rather than the drill bit, a jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make this task quicker & more accurate. http://mysite.verizon.net/oldhokie/windyridge/id11.html

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[pierce]

thats exactly how I set it up before.

I got the distributor and tuneup parts either from this site or nnalert, but it was a few months ago.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Unless you want to try the timing jig, center the the plate & let it be.
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