8N front mount and distributor and cam issue.

[Fortykin]

Hello everyone. Long time follower but new forum member.

I have a front mount distributor that I have worked on for years when needed and now I'm finding that I can no longer get enough adjustment from the side screw to get the engine running smoothly. We have had this machine as a working tractor for 30 years and I know all the details about keeping the ignition working such a the ignition switch and the like.

The distributor shaft has a fair amount of wear on the the drive tangs and the cam slot has even more wear. The previous owner, obviously to compensate for this, had elongated the slot on the side upward to give more adjustment. In times past, I would redo the points, set the static timing and then slide the bolt on the side up until it ran smooth but this time I'm not quiet getting the popping to go away. I also noticed this time that the flyweights and springs seemed really floppy and so I'm think it's time for a new distributor or new shaft. My bearings are snug since I replaced them not too many years ago.

As for the cam, I might replace it based on what you guys say. I really only want to pull the cam out the front since the engine was in framed years ago and does not smoke, use oil or have low compression.

Questions:

1) What is a good aftermarket distributor or distributor shaft?

2) Have any of you had to replace a cam due to this kind of
wear?

 

[lha]

This site sells the shaft and point plate. Have you checked the shaft bushings? Play in the shaft could be
bad enough to throw off the adjustment. I rebushed mine years ago and it fixed a wobble that was present.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 09:43:00 10/20/21) Hello everyone. Long time follower but new forum member.

I have a front mount distributor that I have worked on for years when needed and now I'm finding that I can no longer get enough adjustment from the side screw to get the engine running smoothly. We have had this machine as a working tractor for 30 years and I know all the details about keeping the ignition working such a the ignition switch and the like.

The distributor shaft has a fair amount of wear on the the drive tangs and the cam slot has even more wear. The previous owner, obviously to compensate for this, had elongated the slot on the side upward to give more adjustment. In times past, I would redo the points, set the static timing and then slide the bolt on the side up until it ran smooth but this time I'm not quiet getting the popping to go away. I also noticed this time that the flyweights and springs seemed really floppy and so I'm think it's time for a new distributor or new shaft. My bearings are snug since I replaced them not too many years ago.

As for the cam, I might replace it based on what you guys say. I really only want to pull the cam out the front since the engine was in framed years ago and does not smoke, use oil or have low compression.

Questions:

1) What is a good aftermarket distributor or distributor shaft?

2) Have any of you had to replace a cam due to this kind of
wear?

ly-weight advance mechanism is a possibility, but I do not think the cam slit/distributor tang wear will be your problem, because such wear will retard the timing AND elongating the slot further upward also retards the timing, i.e., one adds to the other, not opposing or compensating. I do not know of the availability of any new camshafts, anyway.

 

[Fortykin]

(quoted from post at 08:34:12 10/20/21)

(quoted from post at 09:43:00 10/20/21) Hello everyone. Long time follower but new forum member.

I have a front mount distributor that I have worked on for years when needed and now I'm finding that I can no longer get enough adjustment from the side screw to get the engine running smoothly. We have had this machine as a working tractor for 30 years and I know all the details about keeping the ignition working such a the ignition switch and the like.

The distributor shaft has a fair amount of wear on the the drive tangs and the cam slot has even more wear. The previous owner, obviously to compensate for this, had elongated the slot on the side upward to give more adjustment. In times past, I would redo the points, set the static timing and then slide the bolt on the side up until it ran smooth but this time I'm not quiet getting the popping to go away. I also noticed this time that the flyweights and springs seemed really floppy and so I'm think it's time for a new distributor or new shaft. My bearings are snug since I replaced them not too many years ago.

As for the cam, I might replace it based on what you guys say. I really only want to pull the cam out the front since the engine was in framed years ago and does not smoke, use oil or have low compression.

Questions:

1) What is a good aftermarket distributor or distributor shaft?

2) Have any of you had to replace a cam due to this kind of
wear?

ly-weight advance mechanism is a possibility, but I do not think the cam slit/distributor tang wear will be your problem, because such wear will retard the timing AND elongating the slot further upward also retards the timing, i.e., one adds to the other, not opposing or compensating. I do not know of the availability of any new camshafts, anyway.

 

[Fortykin]

Actually, I'm referring to the slot on the side of the housing that faces to left side of the tractor, the same one used to rotate the breaker plate to set the static timing. The previous owner had elongated the slot upward to allow more adjustment to the dynamic timing. Mine you can set by the book and it will hardly run-you have to rotate the plate CCW to make it run smooth.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 11:45:07 10/20/21) Actually, I'm referring to the slot on the side of the housing that faces to left side of the tractor, the same one used to rotate the breaker plate to set the static timing. The previous owner had elongated the slot upward to allow more adjustment to the dynamic timing. Mine you can set by the book and it will hardly run-you have to rotate the plate CCW to make it run smooth.

understood that and was pointing out that in rotating the breaker plate CCW, that you are retarding the timing. The same thing cam to distributor wear will do...retard timing.

 

[Fortykin]

Well, that really makes me wonder what is going on then if rotating up (CCW) is retarding the timing even further. I just know that many years ago as I was figuring this thing out, and it was running terrible, I discovered that rotating the lock bolt all the way up made the tractor run better than it ever had.

 

[JMOR]

you used the terms "running smoothly". What does that mean to you? What isn't running smoothly as far as observation, sounds, speeds, load, etc?

 

[Fortykin]

Good question. Running smoothly meant that it had power to push hog, pull a blade, plow, cultivate etc. and could run smoothly the entire time without sputtering, popping or back firing. And also start back up when hot.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 13:00:36 10/20/21) Good question. Running smoothly meant that it had power to push hog, pull a blade, plow, cultivate etc. and could run smoothly the entire time without sputtering, popping or back firing. And also start back up when hot.

ave you tried small varying amounts of choke to see if that makes a difference?

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

There are no 'good' aftermarket units. Use your old one, just get new parts. First thing is to get set of Standard Ignition/Blue Streak points, p/n FD-6769X, NAPA may
have them but Summit and ebay and others do too. Price should be about $16 so don't let them geek you on price. Many new aftermarket points are just junk nowadays.If
cam has slop, think about a new set. Find a copy of '75 Tips for N Owners' by BRUCE(VA). He has the adjustments and what to do if bad. The other major issue on a front
mount is it was ever forced down on mounting 180 deg off. If so, the momemn power was applied it busted the alum base and this is now scrap. You can get a new base or
get a used original and rebuild it too - My 1st choice and I never buy new aftermarket units. If cam and weights are good, can pull out and install in new base. Many,
many fellas install the unit wrong, bust the base, and never know why their unit won't run.


FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN FORCED DOWN 180 OFF:

Tim Daley(MI)