8n hard starting ballast resistor

[mike bruns]

I did all the suggested stuff, points plugs condenser, still starts hard. I found when I jumper the factory ballast resistor the spark is noticably hotter. It measures about 1 ohm and the coil seems to get 5.5 volts when cold. I've seen detailed explanations of how the resistor helps starting but i'm thinking about running a wire from the starter power lug over to the coil so when it's cranking it will get the full 6v to the coil. Just like points setup on old cars. Once started the coil should see the lower voltage through the resistor.Does this make sense?

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 07:57:17 05/14/10) I did all the suggested stuff, points plugs condenser, still starts hard. I found when I jumper the factory ballast resistor the spark is noticably hotter. It measures about 1 ohm and the coil seems to get 5.5 volts when cold. I've seen detailed explanations of how the resistor helps starting but i'm thinking about running a wire from the starter power lug over to the coil so when it's cranking it will get the full 6v to the coil. Just like points setup on old cars. Once started the coil should see the lower voltage through the resistor.Does this make sense?

n its simplest form, that has a problem, because once you let off the starter switch, the starter motor looks like such a low resistance (fraction of ohm) to the coil circuit, that it effectively grounds coil circuit just as if you shorted that added wire to ground. Diode, relay, etc. could be used to alleviate that problem, however.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Of course that will work, but w/ all the time & trouble it takes, why not just fix the problem rather than "by-pass" it?

My two 6v frontmount N's start just fine as I'm sure tens of thousands of others do w/o that modification.

Replace the terminal block & resistor & at least the wire to the coil.

If you forget & leave your bypass switch on you will be replacing the coil!
50 Tips

 

[Dell (WA)]

Mike.......ahh yes, the mysterious "infamous ballast resistor". Bypass it and you report 5.5v at the top of the coil. You should gitt 6.3v. Replace yer weaksister ignition switch ($15, cheap) and guess what??? suddenly you will have 6.3v at the coil terminal and HOT SPARKIES.

Iff'n you don't replace yer weaksister ignition switch and use yer well meaning but ill-founded bypass, keep a spare $30 coil on hand 'cuz you will MELT the internal insulative tars and have weak sparkies.

With a good ignition switch AND infamous ballast resistor connected, you should read about 3.0v at the coil terminal. You can NOT measure coil volts while running with a digital meter. They don't like pulsing volts. (points open and closed) Its a technical thing. .......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie meister

 

[Charles Krammin]

I.ve often thought of using an modern ignition switch, one that is spring loaded for the start cycle. With thise switches it bypasses the ballast resistor (or reistor) to supply full battery voltage to the coil and also activates a starter relay (Takes less amps to activate) and the starter relay provides full amperage directly from the battery to starter, Only problem you would have to have the starter button in the circuit, so you don't start "IN gear" Lets see : one hand on ignition switch, left (or right) on starter button and right hand on choke. Release allof thes and your ballast resistor is in the run position of the ignition switch. I expect OT's to question my virtual electrical schematic.
Charles Krammin SW MI

 

[souNdguy]

I agrewe with the others.. you got bad wireing or connections.. points open should have full bat voltage.. not 5.5v

soundguy