I have good fuel flow, clean the carburetor. I have spark it all four cylinders I did have a cracked rotor which I found when I remove the distributor cap. It was off of the distributor. I replaced one from Steiner ever since then it’s been running even more rough or not starting at all. some tips, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks PS. The points are new and adjusted .025.
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old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Front mount of side mount distributor?? If front points need to be set at 0.015 if side 0.025. The spark needs to be a good blue/white in color and jump a 1/4 inch gap or more at all the plugs. As for fuel you need a good steady flow of gas out of the drain on the bottom to the carb that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutesI have good fuel flow, clean the carburetor. I have spark it all four cylinders I did have a cracked rotor which I found when I remove the distributor cap. It was off of the distributor. I replaced one from Steiner ever since then it’s been running even more rough or not starting at all. some tips, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks PS. The points are new and adjusted .025.
Side mount, I did set gap to 025 I blew out the fuel line as well. When I took the carb off to clean it, put it back together, and yes, left the drain plug out to make sure I had a good flow, strong spark on all cylinders. I did adjust the needle all the way down to the seat, then backed it off one and a half turns.no differenceFront mount of side mount distributor?? If front points need to be set at 0.015 if side 0.025. The spark needs to be a good blue/white in color and jump a 1/4 inch gap or more at all the plugs. As for fuel you need a good steady flow of gas out of the drain on the bottom to the carb that will fill a pint jar in less then 2 minutes
There is a small chip on the bottom of the cab at the base. I am still gonna replace it because it wouldn’t hurt to have a new one anyways yeah I should’ve done them together.Did you inspect the distributor cap? If the rotor was cracked and off of the shaft some or all of the contacts in the cap may be chipped or broken. Then check the distributor shaft for run out due to worn bushings.
rvirgil_KS
Well-known Member
"I did have a cracked rotor which I found when I remove the distributor cap. It was off of the distributor." Did you lose the metal clip that goes in the rotor to hold it to the distributor shaft?I have good fuel flow, clean the carburetor. I have spark it all four cylinders I did have a cracked rotor which I found when I remove the distributor cap. It was off of the distributor. I replaced one from Steiner ever since then it’s been running even more rough or not starting at all. some tips, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks PS. The points are new and adjusted .025.
Replaced cap rotor plugs cleaned carb and fuel line checked and set gap spark seems weak there is a newer coil from the owner before me. I did replace the wire from the coil to the distributor. Does it have to be a certain length and gauge?
So after all that still just cranks maybe I get a little sputter that’s it
So after all that still just cranks maybe I get a little sputter that’s it
rvirgil_KS asked you about the clip that fits on the distributor shaft where the rotor seats. Is it there? If so, I would be taking a close look at the distributor itself, mainly the shaft for lateral and up and down movement. That rotor didn't just jump off for no reason.
No, the length of the coil wire isn't an issue. You replaced cap, rotor and plugs. Did you replace the points and condenser while you were in there?
No, the length of the coil wire isn't an issue. You replaced cap, rotor and plugs. Did you replace the points and condenser while you were in there?
6 SLY PLACE
Member
The centrifugal weights in distributor may be stuck or sticking
used red MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coon Rapids, MN
Just in case of an odd chance that the wires were placed in the distributor cap in the wrong order. Firing order is 1-2-4-3 counter clockwise number one cylinder on the front (fan end).
They might be, "So after all that still just cranks maybe I get a little sputter that’s itThe centrifugal weights in distributor may be stuck or sticking
", however, no centrifugal advance or max centrifugal advance will NOT prevent starting & running. So not relevant to his problem. Just giving the poor fellow a snipe to chase.
Last edited:
tractorfix
Member
Make sure the little flap door on the choke plate is there. They are often missing which renders the choke useless resulting in hard starts.
6 SLY PLACE
Member
It's an easy thing to check. I had a Massey Harris 22 with stuck weights that would not startThey might be, "So after all that still just cranks maybe I get a little sputter that’s it
", however, no centrifugal advance or max centrifugal advance will NOT prevent starting & running. So not relevant to his problem. Just giving the poor fellow a snipe to chase.
6 SLY PLACE
Member
The choke flap is a good thing to check as far as rough running you may need hotter, spark plugs NGK 3112
But the stuck weights were not the cause of no startIt's an easy thing to check. I had a Massey Harris 22 with stuck weights that would not start
It is converted to 12v I checked spark already it is goodTime to use a spark tester and verify if the spark is good. Wire size shouldn't make a difference.
Is this tractor still 6V positive ground or has it been changed?
Make sure the little flap door on the choke plate is there. They are often missing which renders the choke useless resulting in hard starts.
I will double check the distributor. I’m curious to how the rotor just came off like that. I did reset. The gap in the spark seems good. I do have a new set of points and condenser. I’m going to replace that this weekend. See if there’s any different results. I will probably post a video.rvirgil_KS asked you about the clip that fits on the distributor shaft where the rotor seats. Is it there? If so, I would be taking a close look at the distributor itself, mainly the shaft for lateral and up and down movement. That rotor didn't just jump off for no reason.
No, the length of the coil wire isn't an issue. You replaced cap, rotor and plugs. Did you replace the points and condenser while you were in there?
virgil asked you about this clip....never saw response?
This is why I said to use a spark tester, removes all doubt.checked and set gap spark seems weak
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