8n HELP!

[Dr. Dave]

Hi all, just finished putting my rebuilt 1948 8n back together.
Started it today only to find that it runs horrible. It has been quite
difficult to start unless I jump across the resistor located inside the
hood near the amp gauge, with a lead. Then it will start and tends
to run smooth enough until a load is put on the engine and then it
sputters and wants to quit. Could this be a bad resister or possibly
the voltage regulator?

Thanks, Dave

 

[NOXJohn]

A 1948 8N should be a front mount distributor. Check to make sure the plug wires are installed correctly at the distributor cap. Sounds like #3 & #4 are switched.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

It's not the voltage regulator. It's not in the starting circuit.

Is it 6v or 12v?

Check the firing order as NOXJohn said, 1-2-4-3, CCW.
50 Tips

 

[Dr. Dave]

It is 6v, all original. I mean even all parts. Only thing I"ve done is replace wiring harness several years ago.

 

[Billie R. Smith]

Make sure the fan belt hasn't cut into your plug wires. I found 1 of mine pretty much cut in half and one cut about 1/4 way through.

 

[Dr. Dave]

Assuming the plugs are numbered 1-4 from front of motor to back, then the wires are installed correctly according to the numbers on the dist. cap. Other ideas? Again, I have to jump across the resistor to get it started and if I take that wire off it starts to run poorly... Frustrating!

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Check all the connections at the terminal block. The resistor itself isn't the problem because it's only .3 ohms cold. But, if a wire is loose/corroded at the resistor or on the terminal block, that could be the problem.
50 Tips

 

[Dell (WA)]

Dr. Dave........sounds like you have "weak sparkies".
You ask......."Could this be a bad resister or possibly the voltage regulator?"........
the "infamous ballast resistor" is like a lightbulb, it either works or it don't.
The squarecan voltage regulator has 'nuttin' to do with yer sparkies ...except... keeps yer 6-volt battery charged.

You do know ittza 2-bolt, 15-min job to change/check yer points (0.015") on the kitchen table, don't you? Just un-snapple yer capple and letter dangle. Installation is a reversal of the removal ...except... finger start the 2-bolts and install yer rotor. Now rotate yer rotor until the OFF-SET drive tang fits into the OFF-SET camshaft drive slot. It can NOT be installed outta time. Now tighten yer 2-bolts and re-snapple yer capple. Simple, eh?

Remember to "polish" the invisible corrosion from between the points after installation. I use a clean $1-bill and clamp the closed points (0.015") and pullet thru. Iff'n yer really cheap, tear a strip from HEAVY brown grocery sack and use that. Simple, eh?

When you "by-pass" the infamous ballast resistor, you are supplying ignition switch (ON) volts to the 1-terminal at top of the squarecan sparkie coil. Many low volts to coil problems is caused by WEAKSISTER ignition switch. ($10, cheap) Do I haffta tell you to replace yer ignition switch??? ........Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

 

[NOXJohn]

I once had a heavily corroded ballast resister that added a lot of resistance to the circuit and made starting difficult especially when hot. The resistance coil looked like it was corroded partially through in several places. I replaced the resister and it started and ran good. Look the ballast resister over good. It may be time to replace it.

 

[Dr. Dave]

Thanks all of you! Given I am tired of messing with these old parts I think I will replace most of them, but I will do it one at a time to see what helps. I cleaned the points well while I had the front of the engine off but will do it again. I will get a message back up here when I have installed/cleaned stuff and let you all know what happened. BTW Dell, I could just jump across the connectors of the switch to see if that is the problem... right??

Thanks again, Dave

 

[Dell (WA)]

Dr Dave........yes, you can jumper across the weaksister ignition switch. ........Dell, sparkie-meister