8n hydraulics

hitch stays up when lever is full up position but any other position goes down in matter of minutes
ive read about looking in opening of dip stick plate but even if I can tell if it is the rv or not I still have to take off top plate right, so at that point you probably should overhaul the whole thing or is rv change able to be done thru inspection plate removal without taking off plate under seat this is on 48 8n
 
(quoted from post at 18:15:23 06/20/14) hitch stays up when lever is full up position but any other position goes down in matter of minutes
ive read about looking in opening of dip stick plate but even if I can tell if it is the rv or not I still have to take off top plate right, so at that point you probably should overhaul the whole thing or is rv change able to be done thru inspection plate removal without taking off plate under seat this is on 48 8n
LWAYS find leak when assembled/operating! You will not see any leaks when taken apart.
 
it stays up when engine running and clutch out but goes down when engine is off and also when engine running and clutch in, draft control on left side is in up position. But im not sure if level control lever moves or not wing nut to lock it in position is unmoveable will look into that. I assume it should stay up with no load for days.
 
I recently changed the relief valve and replaced the lift piston with the naa piston and oring on my 8n. Before the lift would leak down with no weight at all in a matter of minutes, now it will hold my single bottom plow up for 2 days with little movement. As far as what you need to replace/rebuild, you need to find out where the leak is first. Taking the top cover off is not a big project, takes about 10 min.
 
"I assume it should stay up with no load for days."

I wouldn't expect that out of a 65 year old tractor unless it
was completely rebuilt to brand new specifications.
Even if it were, I wouldn't leave it that way. Why stress it?
I always let the hydraulics down to take the load off.
Anyway, I would take that inspection cover off and have a look.
Look upward and see if you see fluid raining down.
An inspection mirror makes it a much easier job.
You may only need the piston seal/rings or the gaskets to the
top plate. Inspection will let you know while it's running.
The gasket for that cover is cheap to buy or can be home made.
 
The gasket for that cover is cheap to buy or can be home made.

I'm sure I probably done something wrong and unforgivable with this one, but I used blue rtv for the top cover. It doesn't hold pressure, and only needs to keep the water out and oil in. Working so far.
 
(quoted from post at 22:40:42 06/20/14)
The gasket for that cover is cheap to buy or can be home made.

I'm sure I probably done something wrong and unforgivable with this one, but I used blue rtv for the top cover. It doesn't hold pressure, and only needs to keep the water out and oil in. Working so far.
I was actually talking about the inspection cover gasket Tim.
The problem I see with RTV on the hydraulics is that it can get
inside and ruin the pump, plug up valves, etc. causing failure.
If not this time, the next time it is taken apart and has to be scraped off.
Those parts are expensive compared to a gasket.
The gasket kit to do the whole job is less than $10 here.
 
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