8N no spark

[dakota3c06]

Hello
My 52 8N stopped running. points were not opening, the toggle was worn down. power to coil was sporatic at best, sometimes no volts, sometimes 2 or 3, sometimes 6 volts.
I did the following:
New points in Distributor, set .020
New condensor
new rotor
New Plugs
New coil
New ignition switch
New resistor.
Original 6 volt system

Wire to coil registers a consistent 6.40 volts
After I put in new points it fired right up and ran for 30 seconds then died. No spark to plugs. I used an inline tester light for plugs and have no light on when cranking. Rotor is turning.
I took out distributor and checked points again, all looks good.

I am out of ideas

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Why are you using a resistor on a 6v side
coil?

Why are you setting the points at .020
instead of .025?

What is the voltage across the open
points?

Why are you using a worthless light
instead of an adjustable gap spark
checker?

Are you really REMOVING the distributor to
set the points?
75 Tips

 

[old]

Pilled distributor??? Why if it is a 52 it has the side mount distributor so you don't need to pull it to check points etc. Put the old condenser back in and set the points to 0.025 like Bruce said Also like he said NO resister is needed unless you don't have a 52 but you have the older front mount distibutor

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Huh? what toggle??? what resistor??? Some parts replaced needlessly - why a new switch? OEM 6V POS/GRN - how did you verify? A 6V battery does not mean it is set up
that way. Get out your ESSENTIAL MANUALS and read religiously. Like Bruce says: Side Distributor uses .025 point gap and .025 plug gap. Does you GEN have the attached
belt tensioners? Does it also use the Voltage Regulator? Has the battery been tested at a shop under load?


FORD 8N TRACTOR OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING PIGTOGRAMS:

FORD LATE 8N w/SIDE DISTRIBUTOR OEM 6V/POS GRN WIRING DIAGRAM:

FORD LATE 8N w/SIDE DISTRIBUTOR EXPLODED VIEW:

FORD LATE 8N w/SIDE DISTRIBUTOR GENERATOR BELT TENSIONER SADDLE:

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNER/OPERATOR/PARTS/SERVICE MANUALS:

Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Jim L WA]

Dakota, you said new resistor and you talk about removing the distributor. Are you sure your tractor is a '52? Is it actually a front mount distributor?

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley]

Yep, good point, Jim. I keep telling guys, forget about trying to ID tractor by model year and serial number - means relatively nothing except when restoring to OEM quality. It's the important things like if it is a front mount or side mount distributor, 6V or 12V, and if engine may have been swapped out at some point. There is also side mount conversion kits for a front mount so the model year means little, to me anyway. As you know, only the front mount distributor used the OEM Ballast Resistor. With the side mount, the resistor was eliminated and only a junction block was used. Some confuse the block as a resistor put it is no such thing. Now, using a 12V system with a 6V coil will require an external 1-OHM in-line resistor to be added. I don't like adding extra whistles and bells that don't need to be so opt to just swap the 6V coil out for a 12V coil and eliminate any extra resistor. Guys need to invest in the ESSENTIAL MANUALS if they wanna be an N-Owner.


Tim Daley(MI)

 

[Btzj02]

Confusing as to what you have, always identify location of distributer when asking for help, but it is common to get a bad condenser right out of the box. As "Old" suggests I would reinstall the old condenser and test for spark.