8N not getting spark

That bunch of words is NO proof that reversing will result in reduced point life.. It just isn't so without proof.
Hey Man----more power to you--have it your way---believe what you want--no skin off me! I've seen the lightning and heard it thunder, no one has ever had to prove it to me.
 
Hey Man----more power to you--have it your way---believe what you want--no skin off me! I've seen the lightning and heard it thunder, no one has ever had to prove it to me.


So apparently you can't, or won't, back up your statement then?

No big deal to me really but I'm inclined to believe facts not just someone's say so.

I mean, I could say the sun rises in the west and some might believe it but most will ask for proof of it.

Or at least ask what I've been smoking. ;)
 
Hey Man----more power to you--have it your way---believe what you want--no skin off me! I've seen the lightning and heard it thunder, no one has ever had to prove it to me.
It is just 'manure' talk, but the bad part is that someone will repeat it!
 
If you have the polarity reversed on the coil----yes, it will produce a spark, but the points will last no time. The arc absorbed by the condenser will not happen as supposed to, and the points will arc so badly they will last no time. 12V negative ground has the (-) going to the distributor and a 6V positive ground has the (+) going to the distributor.
Reverse polarity on coil??? BS

TPD
 
So apparently you can't, or won't, back up your statement then?

No big deal to me really but I'm inclined to believe facts not just someone's say so.

I mean, I could say the sun rises in the west and some might believe it but most will ask for proof of it.

Or at least ask what I've been smoking. ;)
Hey guys, I didn't intend to start a P-ing contest, but think of it---You all have seen cloud to ground lightning and probably, ground to cloud lightning, too. They both produce the same result , but are different. First, what is the purpose of the condenser in the distributor? I think most agree that it absorbs some the arc cause when the point fire. If the flow of the electric current is reversed at the points, it would lose that characteristic, causing the points to arc severely and cause premature failure. The arc would be (-) to (+) instead of (+) to (-) , because the condenser is on the (+) insulated part of the points. Doesn't this make sense? I've been taught this at mechanic schools I attended early in life, and I didn't just come up with this out of the blue. My intention wasn't to cause friction.
 
Hey guys, I didn't intend to start a P-ing contest, but think of it---You all have seen cloud to ground lightning and probably, ground to cloud lightning, too. They both produce the same result , but are different. First, what is the purpose of the condenser in the distributor? I think most agree that it absorbs some the arc cause when the point fire. If the flow of the electric current is reversed at the points, it would lose that characteristic, causing the points to arc severely and cause premature failure. The arc would be (-) to (+) instead of (+) to (-) , because the condenser is on the (+) insulated part of the points. Doesn't this make sense? I've been taught this at mechanic schools I attended early in life, and I didn't just come up with this out of the blue. My intention wasn't to cause friction.
The condenser is non-polarized. It functions as a condenser regardless of polarity. Out in the world, in other applications, there are polarized capacitors, but this one in the distributor isn't one of them.
 
The condenser is non-polarized. It functions as a condenser regardless of polarity. Out in the world, in other applications, there are polarized capacitors, but this one in the distributor isn't one of them.
I didn't say that, you read it, but missed the whole point.
 
I didn't say that, you read it, but missed the whole point.
I really have no idea what "your point" is. All the condenser does it shunt the current away from the points upon opening for a short period of time until the opening gap is large enough to survive. The current that was flowing thru closed points, now continues (for a moment) to flow thru the condenser. If the condenser were not there , a great deal of stored coil energy would be burned up in the arc across the points, often enough that the engine will not run.
 
Hey guys, I didn't intend to start a P-ing contest, but think of it---You all have seen cloud to ground lightning and probably, ground to cloud lightning, too. They both produce the same result , but are different. First, what is the purpose of the condenser in the distributor? I think most agree that it absorbs some the arc cause when the point fire. If the flow of the electric current is reversed at the points, it would lose that characteristic, causing the points to arc severely and cause premature failure. The arc would be (-) to (+) instead of (+) to (-) , because the condenser is on the (+) insulated part of the points. Doesn't this make sense? I've been taught this at mechanic schools I attended early in life, and I didn't just come up with this out of the blue. My intention wasn't to cause friction.


No problem about the p contest, didn't take it that way, but determining fact from fiction is important to me.

While I was Googling condenser/capacitor polarity JMOR provided the correct answer, which is what I suspected.

No harm in being wrong, everybody is at some point. The ability to admit it is admirable.
 
I really have no idea what "your point" is. All the condenser does it shunt the current away from the points upon opening for a short period of time until the opening gap is large enough to survive. The current that was flowing thru closed points, now continues (for a moment) to flow thru the condenser. If the condenser were not there , a great deal of stored coil energy would be burned up in the arc across the points, often enough that the engine will not run.
I don't think we have anything to argue about-----we just see it different, so, let's just see it as that, and move on.
 
I don't think we have anything to argue about-----we just see it different, so, let's just see it as that, and move on.
You may be arguing, but I am only trying to educate you on how a coil/points ignition system works & by your comments, that education is badly needed. You are welcome.
 
You may be arguing, but I am only trying to educate you on how a coil/points ignition system works & by your comments, that education is badly needed. You are welcome.
Just answer me one simple question-----why do they have (-) and (+) on the round coils, some used to have BAT and DIST, reckon that was there for decorations because the coil looked so naked without anything there. Maybe they should have put instructions in the box, saying, just mount any way you want to. Thanks, but no thanks, don't need any education from you about anything.
 
Ok fellas I spent a little time looking over the tractor today. I disconnected all plugs and contact points, sanded them and replaced plugs and reconnected. I turned on the key and I’m getting power to the alternator and distributor. I removed 3 spark plugs and held the plug next to the hole on the engine and cranked it a few times. NO SPARK. What next?? I have a front mount distributor. Do I want to pull the distributor out and go through it?
 
I would. Here’s my two cents:

For me the front mounts are a fussy thing. I have one and if I take the distributor off and do a tune up I end up taking it out and putting it back a good three times and then suddenly she fires right up. About the time I am thoroughly disgusted it starts like I just ran it. I try to only mess with it every couple of years but put less then 75 hours on it a year. It makes me much happier to just hop on it and mow fence lines without thinking about how it makes its lightening.

I just picked up a side mount that was parked 20 years and am having the same frustration as you. These little Fords are the handiest things - even on a big farm - but they can sometimes make my blood boil.
 
Also…………………. my spark plug wires seem a little loos going into the sides of the distributor. I think I’ll get a kit and replace those as well
 
Ok fellas I spent a little time looking over the tractor today. I disconnected all plugs and contact points, sanded them and replaced plugs and reconnected. I turned on the key and I’m getting power to the alternator and distributor. I removed 3 spark plugs and held the plug next to the hole on the engine and cranked it a few times. NO SPARK. What next?? I have a front mount distributor. Do I want to pull the distributor out and go through it?
Tell us this, do you not have power to the alternator large terminal on the back with the key off? If not, the wiring on your tractor is not correct. The alternator back terminal should be powered all the time. Many tractors that have been converted from 6 to 12 volt systems can have some very “ingenious interpretations” of correct wiring. Photos of your tractor and wiring often reveal previous “follies” Please entertain us with such photos, we will likely get to point “B” much faster.
 
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