8n not starting

[TexasCowboy]

I have owned this 8n for 17 years. I runs sometimes, or it
doesn't.
A 4 cylinder engine should not be this hard to keep running. I
rebuilt my first engine, a 1959 Ford Escort, when I was 17. It
started first time and ran fine for the rest of the time I owned
it.
I bought this for for sentimental reasons. I learned to drive a
tractor on a 1953 Ford 8n when I was 4 years old.
Now, no spark. Most of the ignition components are new. I am
thinking, if I can't get it running again tomorrow, I will borrow
my neighbors John Deere and send this stupid Ford to the scrap
yard and buy a new JD. This tractor has always been hard to start
but pulling it always worked. Not anymore. Since I rebuilt he
engine it has compression high enough that the tires won't turn
unless it is in 3rd gear. Still won't even fire. Plugs, wires,
coil, points, condenser,rotor, cover, ignition switch, wiring
harness. All new, and still won't produce a spark. A suggestion
from a 8n owner would help but don't tell me I don't know what I
am talking about because I know more about enine mechanics that
almost anyone here. This stupid Ford just doesn't follow he rules.
Air fuel, spark. That is all it takes. I have air. I have fuel.
I don't have spark, and I can find no mechanical or elecrical
reason why.
I should add. Tractor was starting and running fine. Hooked up
to the shredder and pulled it into the barn to hook it up to the
hoist so I could remove the blades to sharpen them.
Turned it off while was working on the shredder. Hasn't started
since.

 

[K.Campbell]

I’ve rebuilt tons of 350 Chevy engines.... many Kohlers a few Briggs ... and just as many tecumsehs. I’ll tell ya this much, the flathead 4 is a total different animal. When you say your getting fuel, what was your procedure in checking that? The carb is really the only place to check that... drain plug in the bottom of the bowl will tell ya if your getting fuel. Spark is easy to check, I normally grab a good plug off the shelf... unplug a wire and plug the shelf spark plugin.. turn on ignition and watch for a nice purple spark, a orange spark makes for a hard start. U said you pull started it... is the started bad? If so I’d fix that first, makes it easier to work on. Others are more knowledgeable than I and will hopefully chime in... the above advice is just my amateur attempt at help.. lol

 

[erskine2017]

There were no Escorts in 1959 and no 8Ns in 1953.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

" A suggestion from a 8n owner would help but don't tell me I don't know what I am talking about because I know more about enine mechanics that almost anyone here."

Seriously? You honestly expect to get some help with that attitude?

You know more about engine mechanics that most of us here, but you can't find the cause of a "no-spark" problem on a 65 year old engine?

 

[Bruce (VA)]

But he does know more about engine mechanics than most of us...........

 

[samstu]

my 02 from a N I owned for a while. Ignition switch wire worked when sitting still but when shaking by turning over, lost connection. You can isolate ignition switch with jumper wire from bat to pos terminal of coil.

Mine also had a very worn distributor shaft which gave erratic spark with cheap chinese replacement working better. tough to gap a moving target.... Double check for continuity of wire from neg of coil to points.

There are directions for making sure rotor cap is alligned with electrodes in cap.

Using usual precautions, check for sparking from coil wire (not plug wire) with engine turning over can help. If no spark, disconnect ground (distributor) wire from coil and intermittantly touch to ground and see if coil sparks. should help isolate issue.

I would suspect you have a bad coil, condensor, points or coil wire.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 21:38:20 04/21/18)

[i:58f8b0c138]
"But he does know more about engine mechanics than most of us........... "[/i:58f8b0c138]

there was a great show on NPR thirty-some years ago.

Dr. Science! He knows [i:58f8b0c138]more[/i:58f8b0c138] than you do. He's got a masters degree - in SCIENCE!

 

[JMOR]

Weird, this guy knows so much that he should be teaching us, not asking!

 

[doublebass73]

(quoted from post at 17:35:06 04/21/18) There were no Escorts in 1959 and no 8Ns in 1953.

He knows more about 1959 Ford Escorts and 1953 Ford 8Ns than almost everyone here.

 

[Louis A]

There were no Escorts in 1959 and no 8Ns in 1953.

Actually there were Ford Escorts made in 1959! You might want to do a little research next time before you make yourself look like a fool! :roll:

 

[TexasCowboy]

Don't understand your post. I said I rebuilt a 1959 Ford Escort
when I was 17. Looked just like the picture you posted.

 

[Tim PloughNman Daley RIP]

HiYa Tex-
The FORD ESCORT was one of the UK built 'export' models, built there, not here. In 1953 the 8N model was no longer being built -the NAA/Jubilee replaced it in September, 1952, but there were over a half million Ns around by then. Did your "53 8N" have an overhead valve engine or the standard Ford N-Series flathead 4 cylinder? Does your 8N have a front mount distributor or the later angle (side) mount distributor? I have many questions, so let's start with what type of electrical system your Ford 8N Tractor has. Original electrical systems were 6-volt/positive ground. Years later, some have been converted to 12-volt/negative ground with an alternator. A huge issue with 12-volt conversions is that many are done wrong. Simply swapping out the 6-volt battery to a 12-volt does not constitute a conversion. Let's start there. A good, systematic method of problem solving is required to determine the true root cause in any situation, in any scenario, and working on engines and vehicles is no exception. Simply replacing many parts all at once like you listed isn't the way to proceed, can get expensive, and you may end up with the same problem as you state you did. Do you have a copy of BRUCE(VA)'s 75 Tips for N-Owners? If not find one of his recent posts and click on the LINK he provides there to download a copy for yourself. Next, get a copy of WIRING PICTOGRAMS by JMOR. You can get a free downloadable copy on the NTC tractor site. Keep these in your shop along with the essential manuals for your 8N. You should have a copy of your model year 8N Operator's Manual, a copy of the I&T F-04 Manual, and a copy of the 39-53 MPC (Master Parts Catalog) so if you don't, get them. You can't be an N-Owner without them. Any good electrical system needs a proper power source. That means a good, working battery, not simply a 'charged' battery. Your battery must withstand a full charge UNDER LOAD, meet specific gravity requirements, in order to fire the engine. Your local starter/alternator shop can test the battery, generator, starter, ammeter, and/or alternator. These old N's are pretty basic, and when properly maintained, are not as troublesome as a lot think. Three basic things are needed to run: Spark, Fuel, and Compression. You need to concentrate on the first two for now. I'd begin with the wiring and everything electrical. JMOR's pictograms show every CORRECT way to wire these old N's whether 6-volt or 12-volt. You asked for our help, so we are prepared to give it. Saying you 'know more engine mechanics than anyone here' doesn't help your situation, yet you show no patience as in the same breath say you are ready to pack it in an go buy a JD model. That doesn't sound like a logical-thinking mechanics' way at all. Get the manuals, get the pictograms, get the 75 Tips, and READ. I'd be willing to bet your issues are all in the wiring and electrical system. Disconnect the battery. Whenever working on the electrical system, it is a good practice to disconnect the battery to prevent shorting something out accidentally. Take the battery in to get checked, and if bad, replace it. Your starter shop can also test your starter, alternator, and generator as well. Use a reliable shop -one who knows these old Fords and 6-volt electrical systems. Disconnect the lights, for now, just to take them out of the equation, you can reconnect later once root cause is determined and solved. Trace all the wiring per original diagrams but don't go by the original color coded wiring as chances are it isn't still original. If it is, it may be time to replace the entire harness, but invest in a good one, not the cheapest out there as they are usually just flimsy vinyl covered, non-insulated, wires, and certainly not color coded. If still 6-volts and connected positive ground, verify that. 8Ns and after used voltage regulators with the generator. The ammeter will show a slight + (PLUS)charge when properly tuned. If you have 12-volt system, you should have an alternator and the Voltage Regulator gets taken out of the system altogether. In conclusion, get the manuals, get the diagrams, and take baby steps. Do not buy and replace anymore parts until determined. Chances are you'd find some, if not all, the parts you already replaced are perfectly functional anyway. Like I said, we are more than willing to help you -that's what these tractor sites are all about.

FORD 8N TRACTOR ESSENTIAL OWNERS MANUALS:

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

 

[TexasCowboy]

actually, no I don't.

 

[TexasCowboy]

I do, and with a well equipped machine shop, I could correct the design errors Ford made.

 

[TexasCowboy]

I check fuel by removing the plug from the bottom of the carb.

 

[TexasCowboy]

It was an English Ford Escort. Imported. And the tractor is a 1952, not 53. My mistake.

 

[K.Campbell]

Well make sure u have a well charged battery for starters. Trace your wiring from your ignition switch, then make sure your points arnt corroded and your condensor is new, check your coil as well as the wiring going to it. Check your coil wire...you mentioned in an earlier post that your engine was tight from a fresh rebuild... it should not be so tight as to not be able to be pulled or turned over with a starter. You also didn’t mention wether or not you had converted it to 12 volt or not..more information could help isolate the problem.

 

[K.Campbell]

Another thing I could/should say is, don't overthink this...this is a very simple machine and it does follow the rules..there is a fella on here that has 75 tips to follow....look that over, it's a lifetimes worth of useful information, tricks and tips to follow on these old fords.

 

[K.Campbell]

also if ya send her to the scrap yard, send her my way...ill give ya scrap price for it.. :roll:

 

[K.Campbell]

Well make sure u have a well charged battery for starters. Trace your wiring from your ignition switch, then make sure your points arnt corroded and your condensor is new, check your coil as well as the wiring going to it. Check your coil wire...you mentioned in an earlier post that your engine was tight from a fresh rebuild... it should not be so tight as to not be able to be pulled or turned over with a starter. You also didn’t mention wether or not you had converted it to 12 volt or not..more information could help isolate the problem.

 

[TexasCowboy]

Voltages test right on both sides of the coil. No spasrk to the distributor at all. New coil, twice.

 

[jon corbett]

if it started by pulling? do u have a mag on this tractor?check stud that goes thru distributor body for grounding out.#2 points installed correctly?dont get insulted-it happens.i don't mean gap either-but it doesn't hurt to check.