8n oil change

[kvanlaan]

Um, new here, just wondering if anyone can give me some tips on an oil change for this machine. I love my 8n (purchased not long ago) but want to take care of it, and it is in need of an oil change before winter sets in (we will be using it for plowing the snow in the driveway). Is there a tutorial available on this? I already have the right oil filter, but need some specs on how many liters of oil are needed to refill it once it is emptied, etc.

Thanks,
Kevin

 

[Ultradog MN]

This is the best place on the whole internet to ask questions about your tractor.
Most guys use 10W30 or 20W40 year round.
Oil change aint anything special. Just do it often.
You from CA or FR or GB or AU or somesuch?
Liter?
Oh that's right...
It's a quart and a liter bit more.
Just add 5 quarts or liters and then go have some tea, a toddy, some good stout coffee or whiskey and then come back and check the dip stick. Add till it shows to the top of the mark.
Full will be full whatever measure you use.
Welcome to the board.

 

[kvanlaan]

Sorry, yeah, I'm in from Canada. So it's litres here. (My wife's from Oklahoma, does that count?) So five quarts of oil to be drained and replaced. I'm assuming it's best changed hot, yeah? What should decent oil pressure be? I see it hover around 30-40 most of the time...

Thanks for the welcome! (This does seem like an awesome forum for 8n stuff - what a blessing.)

 

[Ultradog MN]

Just kidding you about the liters. More like 6 quarts or 5 liters I think. Just fill it to the mark.
Oil pressure depends on how warm the engine is and rpm.
30-40 at pto speed (3/4 throttle) hot engine is excellent. Hot idle may drop to under 15 psi and still have years of service.
Yes, great board. And great, helpful bunch of guys here. But sometimes we like to gnash and tear at one another too so trepidation and/or pachydermal genes are recommended.

 

[Michael Va]

i just overhauled my 8n...when i cleaned the canister that holds the oil filter element it had about 1 inch of gunky crud in the bottom of it...every time i change oil i am going to take the canister off of the tractor and wash it out..

 

[NOXJohn]

The oil plug at the bottom of the pan may be difficult to get off. Use a good adjustable wrench or pipe wrench. If you round the corners it will really make it difficult so take your time. It is a big plug so when it does come off the oil will really come out fast so be prepared to get a gush of of oil. Let it drain for 15 minutes or so. If you don't have a gasket for the plug make one out of cardboard. A cereal box is good material. Do not use gasket goop on plug, just a gasket. Change the oil in the cap at the bottom of the air cleaner. Use same oil as you put in the engine. Change oil at a minimum in the spring and fall. It would be advisable to also grease the various fittings.

 

[2ruNgineer]

i had same issue on gunky oil filter canister, eh. make sure to clean it out well. Me NAPA filter also had a hard time getting enough room to put it in with the canister still on the tractor because of 'head room' above canister. the filter has internal gaskets around center post which are tough to push down over the post. putting in 5qts (4.732 ltr) i am in the middle of the dipstick range. could put another qt (.946 ltr) in to full.

 

[jdchet]

Them NAPA filters got some sharp edges on 'em too! I usually have to loosen the bolts that hold the oil filter canister in order to get enough clearance to get the element out of the canister. I also find the pan of used oil laying under the tractor can make for a pretty effective field mouse trap if left under the tractor for about an hour or so! One time when I commented on this to my better half she asked how the mice got in the engine! :shock: I made some comment to her and she proceeded to inform me of certain deficiencies in my character!

JD 8)

 

[Jess Pidlin]

Some tips I've learned along the way:

1- Pick a nice warm day and allow a couple of hours for the job (make it a "bonding" experience with Ole Nellie )

2- Be sure the engine is sufficiently warmed up (10 - 15 minutes)

3- To make the job of removing the plug easier:
a) use a long-handle pipe wrench
b) use a screw or hydraulic jack with a piece of wood on top to press against the wrench to keep it from slipping off the plug (I've had problems with both old and new plugs)
c) Remove the plug carefully to avoid damaging the filter screen

4- Allow ample time for all the oil to drain

5- Remove and clean the canister - be careful removing the lines.

6- Remove the gaskets (plug and filter), apply light film of oil to both and replace.

7- Apply oil to the top and bottom inner gaskets on the filter to allow it to slide on the tube easier.

8- Replace the plug! [i:a78b88a250]Don't ask [/i:a78b88a250]

9- Place the new filter in the canister, slide onto the tube, attach to motor and hook up the lines.

10- Wash the filler cap in gasoline and allow to dry

11- Remove the lower "can" from the air cleaner, clean and add new oil to the "full" mark.

12- Add 5 quarts of your favorite brand and blend of oil.

13- Fire "Nellie" up, check for pressure on the gauge, and for leaks.

14- Check the dipstick, and add to "full" mark.

Ole Nellie will thank you by purring like a kitten with her new oil.

Welcome to the board, and hope this helps.

Y'all have a gooden...

Jess

 

[Ultradog MN]

Yes.
And about 241 kPa at 35 psi.

 

[SteveRusssell]

Plug Removal. Suggest you purchase a 1 1/16" socket. So no damaged threads. Easier to hold onto than a pipe wrench,does not round off the edges, and it works to remove the Hydraulic fluid also.

 

[36 Coupe]

Hot oil will burn you,no mention of that on posts.

 

[Hobo,NC]

(quoted from post at 10:33:47 10/27/10) Hot oil will burn you,no mention of that on posts.

Then play it safe ware a condum,,,, you never know were these tractors have been...

For the kinkier they also make'em in colors...