8n Removing sleeves

[Axtell]

I am or was trying to do an in tractor rebuild and have run into a dead end using a puller to remove the sleeves. First sleeve, first attempt the rod/nut stripped. I was able to get the top nut and bracket off the top of the rod using a pair of vise grips, but the rod/puck threads also seem hosed. I am unable to pull the puck/rod out of the bottom of the block because I still have the crankshaft bolted to the block. At this point I am convinced I need to remove the engine, flip it over on an engine mount and drive the sleeves out of the block.

My question is, does the clutch and flywheel have to be removed to attach it to an engine mount? Was wondering that ahead of time.

 

[Del Huebner]

I had to remove mine anyway so don't know for sure. There may be enough room. I am sure someone with more experience will answer your question.

 

[R Geiger]

I haad the crankshaft remove when I drove mine out, I am not sure if you can drive them out with the crankshaft installed or not. If you go as far to put it on a stand I would remove crankshaft and check/replace bearings, oil pump and seals. mission creep setting in!
Good luck

 

[HCooke]

"My question is, does the clutch and flywheel have to be removed to attach it to an engine mount? Was wondering that ahead of time."

Yes.

 

[Dell (WA)]

Axtell.......geeze, yer doin' it the HARD way. Take an ARC-WELDER and run a couple of beads down each sleeve. The beads will SHRINK yer sleeve and will be EAZY to remove. CAUTION: some sleeves have been "puckey'd" (glued) but the shrinking effect of the weld beads should break the bond. BTW, the welding scheme is a "ZANE's" trick and advice. ........HTH, Dell

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 05:05:45 02/25/15) Axtell.......geeze, yer doin' it the HARD way. Take an ARC-WELDER and run a couple of beads down each sleeve. The beads will SHRINK yer sleeve and will be EAZY to remove. CAUTION: some sleeves have been "puckey'd" (glued) but the shrinking effect of the weld beads should break the bond. BTW, the welding scheme is a "ZANE's" trick and advice. ........HTH, Dell

any danger of arc penetrating the thin sleeves and welding them in? I was afraid to try that and using TOH's tools drove them out just fine.

 

[Charner MS]

Flywheel doesn't have to be removed but the pressure plate and clutch does. Most engine mounts.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 17:35:05 02/24/15)

(quoted from post at 05:05:45 02/25/15) Axtell.......geeze, yer doin' it the HARD way. Take an ARC-WELDER and run a couple of beads down each sleeve. The beads will SHRINK yer sleeve and will be EAZY to remove. CAUTION: some sleeves have been "puckey'd" (glued) but the shrinking effect of the weld beads should break the bond. BTW, the welding scheme is a "ZANE's" trick and advice. ........HTH, Dell

any danger of arc penetrating the thin sleeves and welding them in?

More than a little likely for most people.

TOH

 

[Poppy545]

I turned a aluminum plug that slid into mine. I threaded a handle into it and just tapped them through.

 

[ZANE]

I have actually turned a tractor over on it's side with a crane and driven the sleeves out this way.

Some engines you can use a round puck with the two levels cut into it inside and outside bore and drive them out with the crank still in. Some of the later Ford tractor engines won't allow a round puck to get past the crankshaft but you can take that same round puck and cut off about 1/2" on opposite sides and it will then go past the crankshaft. I use a long heavy bar drift about two feet long to drive against the puck to drive them out.

To install them I pack the bottom of the new sleeve with a cloth and use liquid propane into the sleeve till it is good and frosted and they will go in with little effort. Be absolutely sure there is no ignition source if you try this and be outside. I use a flat piece of 1/2" or thicker steel plate that will completely cover the top of the sleeve to bottom the sleeve onto the level of the block deck
Never drive the sleeve down past the deck level or the head gasket won't seal.

Zane

 

[ZANE]

Be sure the crank journals are covered with a wet rag if you do weld beads top to bottom and have the engine on it's side. Don't want any weld spatter to get on the crank. That will ruin your day.

Zane

 

[Ken(Ark)]

At this point I am convinced I need to remove the engine, flip it over on an engine mount and drive the sleeves out of the block.

Most of the time a tool made for a specific task will operate almost effortly .

I am not one to tell a man what he should do with his time and money . I seriously doubt that you would need to remove the block or crank with the proper tool .

I have used the cheap loaner tool to remove power steering pulleys from autozone . I took it back in bad condition and offered to pay for it . the salesman said it was very common with the low quality tool . I purchase a KD set and have used it dozens of times with no damage and a lot less effort.

I can tell the difference when using a home made puller with all thread and a ball bearing hardened fine thread pulley , it is like day and night

 

[Axtell]

(quoted from post at 12:06:30 02/24/15) I am or was trying to do an in tractor rebuild and have run into a dead end using a puller to remove the sleeves. First sleeve, first attempt the rod/nut stripped. I was able to get the top nut and bracket off the top of the rod using a pair of vise grips, but the rod/puck threads also seem hosed. I am unable to pull the puck/rod out of the bottom of the block because I still have the crankshaft bolted to the block. At this point I am convinced I need to remove the engine, flip it over on an engine mount and drive the sleeves out of the block.

My question is, does the clutch and flywheel have to be removed to attach it to an engine mount? Was wondering that ahead of time.

Thanks everyone for the feedback. Mission Creep, yeah lol, stepped in what? I bought a puller and damaged the threads trying to pull out the first sleeve. It came out about and inch and that's all she wrote. I was able to get the top nut off using a pair of vice grips on the rod but the puck threads are also damaged and I cant pull it out because the crankshaft is in the way and I don't have enough wack to knock it out from the bottom. Yeah, I'd say mission creep.