8N sat for the summer

RWS904

Member
Hi all, I’ve kept my 8N on a battery tender but haven’t started it since June. I went to start it yesterday and noticed the ammeter needle didn’t move while cranking, which I thought it did in the past. At any rate, it wouldn’t start. I have 12.6V at the coil with the ignition on, but get no spark at the plugs. Checked the screws on the ammeter, both are tight (been bitten by that once before). I haven’t done any type of maintenance to it since the last time I drove it. We have had torrential rains here this summer and I haven’t pulled the distributor yet to see if it got wet. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this situation.
 
Hi all, I’ve kept my 8N on a battery tender but haven’t started it since June. I went to start it yesterday and noticed the ammeter needle didn’t move while cranking, which I thought it did in the past. At any rate, it wouldn’t start. I have 12.6V at the coil with the ignition on, but get no spark at the plugs. Checked the screws on the ammeter, both are tight (been bitten by that once before). I haven’t done any type of maintenance to it since the last time I drove it. We have had torrential rains here this summer and I haven’t pulled the distributor yet to see if it got wet. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this situation.
Front of side mount distributor?? Most likely problem is the points need a simple cleaning
 
I finally had some free time and pulled the front mount distributor to clean up the points today. Everything was clean and dry inside, probably only has about 10 hours of run time since I changed the points and condenser several years ago. Still no spark, battery voltage at the coil. Bumped the starter a handful of times until the points closed and read approximate 7V at the coil. Measured the primary resistance of the coil at ~3 ohms. Tried installing an older coil that was included in a box of parts, 1.2 ohms primary resistance, still no spark. Suggestions are welcome while I continue searching.
 
I finally had some free time and pulled the front mount distributor to clean up the points today. Everything was clean and dry inside, probably only has about 10 hours of run time since I changed the points and condenser several years ago. Still no spark, battery voltage at the coil. Bumped the starter a handful of times until the points closed and read approximate 7V at the coil. Measured the primary resistance of the coil at ~3 ohms. Tried installing an older coil that was included in a box of parts, 1.2 ohms primary resistance, still no spark. Suggestions are welcome while I continue searching.
That high of a voltage says the points are dirty and not making good contact and need to be cleaned. When a tractor sits parked for a long time the points tend to corroded so in turn they don't conduct power
 
Thank you, Steve K and “old” (aren’t we all?). I didn’t have a proper file handy so I just passed some fine grit sandpaper through the closed faces of the points a few times while holding the distributor in a vise. I have some small burnishing files at work that might do the job. What voltage is appropriate with the distributor installed and the points closed?
 
Sand paper tends to leave sand grit behind and if/when that happens you just wasted your time since sand doesn't conduct power so you then need to clean the points with a piece of card board or a business card
 
My old shop teacher told us to use a dollar bill to clean the points in a pinch. It works surprisingly well. Pinch the points closed as you run the bill through it several times.
 
Sand paper tends to leave sand grit behind and if/when that happens you just wasted your time since sand doesn't conduct power so you then need to clean the points with a piece of card board or a business card

Give them a spray with contact cleaner if you sand them (even if you don't) before running the paper across them.
 
My old shop teacher told us to use a dollar bill to clean the points in a pinch. It works surprisingly well. Pinch the points closed as you run the bill through it several times.
I used the dollar bill method once on a neighbor's 8N that had sat months and it worked like a charm. I remember the late sparky meister Dell mentioning that method .
 
Thanks for all of your replies. I pulled the distributor off again this afternoon and removed the points to get a better look. They are badly arced and need replaced. I don’t have a capacitor testing mode on my DMM, will check it tomorrow with a better meter. The copper “strap” that goes from the coil spring to the points is in bad shape too. Any idea where I can get a replacement for that?
 
file them and use them . I filed a set on my 656 four years ago and they are still running (as of last Thursday ). Our forefathers ran them till there was nothing left to spark.
 
file them and use them . I filed a set on my 656 four years ago and they are still running (as of last Thursday ). Our forefathers ran them till there was nothing left to spark.
Thank you, 504. My dad, his dad, and his uncle would have done the same. I’ll give that a try before throwing parts at it
 
file them and use them . I filed a set on my 656 four years ago and they are still running (as of last Thursday ). Our forefathers ran them till there was nothing left to spark.

The best file for points is a flex stone. Plastic strip imbedded with abrasive. They come in several grits and Snap On Man used to carry them.

Learned about those when I worked at a Honda/Suzuki dealership, and motorcycles still had points, some had three sets.....

To OP. For copper strip, quality point sets have a copper strip. Recycle one of those from an old set.
 
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