8N spark plug extracter

SemperFi

Member
Got my 8N home today and was starting to go through it and I broke one of the spark plugs. I have the hood off and what would be the best way to extract the plug. I was thinking of drilling then using a extracter. I have not read the serial # yet so I dont know what year. Does have dist in the front, pain in the butt to change points. Thanks
 
Someone else will have to help you with the spark plug, but changing the points on the front mount is very easy. You remove the distributor and do them on the bench.
 
Most likely you will need to remove the head to remove the remnants of the plug now that it has snapped off. Now that the hood has been removed this is a small job.

Dean
 
I sure hope you weren't pulling the hood off to change the points. The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. Remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on.

As to drilling out the plug & using an extractor......consider the consequence of error. Screw it up & you will be pulling the head & replacing it. (or installing a heli-coil to replace the threads you buggered up & then having the heli-coil blow out in 6 months).

Or, you can just pull the head now & get it out as Dean suggested. That will cost you a gasket.
50 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 22:46:37 10/31/09)
As to drilling out the plug & using an extractor......consider the consequence of error. Screw it up & you will be pulling the head & replacing it. (or installing a heli-coil to replace the threads you buggered up [b:18047dd5c1]& then having the heli-coil blow out in 6 months[/b:18047dd5c1]).

Or, you can just pull the head now & get it out as Dean suggested. That will cost you a gasket.
50 Tips

Let's revisit that 6 months.

One of my plug holes was boogered up when I got my '49 8N something around 25 - 26 years ago.

The heli-coil that I put in then is still giving me good service, although it does come out with the plug, an then has to be removed from the plug if need be, but it will come off the plug, and go on another.

See the larger hole in number 3?

4-3-2-1

2009-04-24_155822_008.jpg


Which now, me calling this a [b:18047dd5c1]heli-coil [/b:18047dd5c1]may be a bit unfair, as it is [b:18047dd5c1]not[/b:18047dd5c1] the wire coil kind, it is an actual threaded on the inside, threaded on the outside, insert.

Oh, and BTW, after the head job a few months back, my N went on straight water for a while, till the puddin proofed.

http://www.theviperr.info/hobo_dnn/Default.aspx?tabid=124

I finally got around to putting her back on anti-freeze today, after changing the heater core in my '88 Chevy Blazer.

I shore am sore from that, and wouldn't have made that happen, if not for the help from one of my Ole Lady's sons that I raised.

I sure was a lot happier fooling with the N!!!

A good torch would be yer friend getting that broken plug out.
 
I would Take Dean's Advice.
To much junk would fall down on top of the piston.
Taking the head off is an easy job.

Just a Suggestion /Spray Every-Thing
(BOLT-Wise-that is) with P-B Blaster before you take the head off.
Let it soak in over night.
Because those Bolts / Studs have been known to snap off flush with the top of the Block.
 
Pull the head off and then get a good "square" sided easy out of appropriate size. (Not round spiral) Drive the easy out firmly into the plug by using the easy out to drive out the remaining porcelin and firmly set the easy out. Then just turn it out.

Do not use a round spiral easy out. It will just make it tighter. Square in cross section easy out!!!!
Zane
 
Based upon my limited observations, I can now say that I've heard of exactly one heli-coil (or similar application) working in a spark plug hole. I had one blow out on my first N (no telling how long it had been there)and the neighbor had one last about 2-3 months in his. That's current history w/ N's. I recall friend years ago trying one on a Ford V-8; I don't think he got it out of the driveway.

Of course, I'm sure both the product & installation play a big role in longevity.
 
(quoted from post at 23:12:33 10/31/09) Based upon my limited observations, I can now say that I've heard of exactly one heli-coil (or similar application) working in a spark plug hole. I had one blow out on my first N (no telling how long it had been there)and the neighbor had one last about 2-3 months in his. That's current history w/ N's. I recall friend years ago trying one on a Ford V-8; I don't think he got it out of the driveway.

Of course, I'm sure both the product & installation play a big role in longevity.

We used to blow them out of a 396 big block Camaro quite regularly, but it had 13:1 popups, and the front wheels would jump a 7 oz. coke bottle on take off.

Here is a quick lookup for something similar to what I am talking about.

It came with a tapping tool, and a tool to "set" the end of them that had a correguation that was supposed to hold them.

They may have some "puckey" to lock them now?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...amp;psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a
 
i used the same ones as dunk all the time when someone twisted out the threads on small engine heads , never had one go bad.
 
I once had a 1917 Hudson Super-Six that had the plugs so rusted they were round when we got the car. Soaked it down top and bottom with Liquid Wrench no. 2, the best penetrant I ever saw (that they quit making) I took off the head and took it to the machine shop were I worked to drill them out.
I set the flat head upside-down on a drill press and used a drill diameter just under the root diameter of the threads. After pounding the porcelain out,I drove the drill into the tube, and when it nearly broke through, it unscrewed the plug stubs. It drove them right on out. Worked without fail on all six plugs.
 
Let me first sayI don't want to open a can of worms here,just relate my experience with helicoils;first off they are the last resort.they must be carefully installed.I have installed them in racing bikes,when the owner could'nt wait for the motor to cool down&ripped the threads out either when removing or replacing plug.I removed head,drilled&tapped then installed helicoil and put a hardening compound like loctite[can't remember name'crs']and it held tight.I have one on the rocker arm threads of my 86 Hardbody4x4 p/u as we type.---lha
 
(quoted from post at 23:33:49 10/31/09)
(quoted from post at 23:12:33 10/31/09) Based upon my limited observations, I can now say that I've heard of exactly one heli-coil (or similar application) working in a spark plug hole. I had one blow out on my first N (no telling how long it had been there)and the neighbor had one last about 2-3 months in his. That's current history w/ N's. I recall friend years ago trying one on a Ford V-8; I don't think he got it out of the driveway.

Of course, I'm sure both the product & installation play a big role in longevity.

We used to blow them out of a 396 big block Camaro quite regularly, but it had 13:1 popups, and the front wheels would jump a 7 oz. coke bottle on take off.

Here is a quick lookup for something similar to what I am talking about.

It came with a tapping tool, and a tool to "set" the end of them that had a correguation that was supposed to hold them.

They may have some "puckey" to lock them now?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...amp;psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

I did a little more looking, just for clarification.

I believe this to be exactly what I used.

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/ProductDetails.aspx?SKU=85880
 
I would not reccommend a heli-coil for a spark plug hole fix. As suggested, pull the head, but spray with Kroil or PB Blaster first a few times day maybe for a few days. Is there still a hex from the plug of which to get a wrench or socket on to? Use a good six-point socket. When you get it out chase the threads with a tap. The thread size is M14 x 1.25. Don't try to substitute an inch size or a thread pitch other than that stated.

Front mount distributor is not hard to remove and work on your kitchen table...

Tim Daley(MI)
 
You said the hood is off, for safety, be sure hood/gastank are safely out of the way.

Heat remains of sparkplug RED HOT with an oxy-accet torch (even a MAPP torch will work, given a little time) and allow to cool to ambient. Repeat a couple of times. Allow to cool to ambient and it will screw out EASILY.

Wear the appropriate eye protection and KEEP YOUR FACE from over the hole in case residual vapors ignite, blowing fire, soot, and carbon out the hole.

NEVER had that procedure fail.

And, NO WORRIES about having to repair the threads, beyond simply chasing them.
 
Thanks just got it out with some heat and a little muscle. Never came across this problem and did not know the right way to get it out. Its out now. Thank you
 
GOOD for you, Semper!

SOMETIMES things aren't as tough as some folks would have you believe!
 
(quoted from post at 00:41:26 11/02/09) GOOD for you, Semper!

SOMETIMES things aren't as tough as some folks would have you believe!

My threads weren't chaseable.

They were nill.

Only posting my experience.

But way back in one of my first posts, I told him a torch would be his friend.

We covered a lot of scenarios in this topic.

No need to narrow any one of them down, just because they may not have applied to this exact scenario.

There was a lot of ground covered in this topic.

To belittle any of it is a .........
 
Yep, got that Dunk!

By heating the remains of the plug to loosen it rather then trying to chop, drill, or extract it saved his threads.

With destroyed threads, as you had, it's another matter.
 
(quoted from post at 00:50:33 11/02/09) Yep, got that Dunk!

By heating the remains of the plug to loosen it rather then trying to chop, drill, or extract it saved his threads.

With destroyed threads, as you had, it's another matter.

Yep!!!

Mine had been crossed, and were very rusty also, but only that one plug.

Also one more note to this topic.

It is possible from my link that I have on our Hobo board....

You can surface a head at least twice, and still use it, if you are willing to do the careful grinding on it, to insure the piston clearance.
 
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