8N split nut hub removal?

[gears]

Hi everyone, been reading all the old threads/posts I can find on fixing the 8N rear hubs. I have my friend's over here and both hubs are loose. It appears they both have the double nut, no G clip and one might be welded to the shaft - literally.

Read a lot of great posts (JMOR / HOBO) about putting it together but unsure of the teardown re: split nuts.

My question is how do I release the double nut to remove it? I read where torquing with only 1 on the shaft can cause them to crack/split. I am assuming the same will happen trying to loosen them?

I presume I need to remove that little key...

 

[JMOR]

What you think is a double or split nut may not be. This first picture is a single nut where a locking wire resides in the grove. The second picture is an aftermarket affair that folks try to use when axle threads are bad and I say "try" because they only rarely work as advertised.

 

[gears]

Thanks JMOR, I think it's the 2nd pic "Repair" unit that's on this tractor. I will take a wire wheel to it and get some pics.

The good news is I shouldn't have any trouble getting these hubs off as there's about 15* movement perpendicular to the axle.

I am getting ready to jack it up to see how bad things are.

 

[gears]

Ever heard Bill Cosby's bit about Noah and the pregnant elephant? Turns out the tires are loaded...

LH side came apart ok. 1&13/16" nuts on it - had a big 12 point boxed end wrench. was able to slide the hub off with my hands. Splines were recessed so I think it can be torqued on, just not with that 12 pt. wrench on those thin nut flats. Even tried starting the outer so the wrench wouldn't slip... got it tight so it doesn't wobble but not near the 400 ft/lbs

Going to start slicing weld on the RH side.

Any source for OEM nuts and not these split things besides that auction site?

 

[R Geiger]

(quoted from post at 18:20:28 08/09/23) Ever heard Bill Cosby's bit about Noah and the pregnant elephant? Turns out the tires are loaded...

LH side came apart ok. 1&13/16" nuts on it - had a big 12 point boxed end wrench. was able to slide the hub off with my hands. Splines were recessed so I think it can be torqued on, just not with that 12 pt. wrench on those thin nut flats. Even tried starting the outer so the wrench wouldn't slip... got it tight so it doesn't wobble but not near the 400 ft/lbs

Going to start slicing weld on the RH side.

Any source for OEM nuts and not these split things besides that auction site?

Why not buy them from our hosts here at YT?

 

[R Geiger]

But since the split ones were on there, chances are the threads on the axles are shot!

 

[gears]

Threads on the left are sound. I won t know about the RH until I cut it.

I would buy here if I could find them - all I get on the parts page is that split job. Even used the site search for 8n axle nut and NAA.

 

[R Geiger]

Look under drive train! They are there!

 

[JMOR]

If the axle splines extend out beyond the hub , as in picture, then no matter how many thousands of foot-pounds you torque to, the hub will not be tight to axle. New axle and hubs most likely needed.

 

[HFJ]

(quoted from post at 23:27:43 08/09/23) Look under drive train! They are there!

aha, i looked under wheels.

 

[gears]

Yep I looked under wheels too and the site search only came up with the split repair jobs. Thank you - I can add those to my order.

My hub is proud of the splines - at least the LH one is....

 

[Hobo,NC]

Those threads can look good and not hold a new one piece nut. You wont know till you try BTDT. I learned along time ago when using the original parts axle out to assemble the hubs on the axle and test fit while they are out.

Tighten the nut then remove if all looks good throw the axle/hub in a press pop'em apart and run with it.