8N starter 12 volt

danDB

New User
I tried to start my 8N just to let it run for awhile. It did not start right away, the starter would crank the motor and then stop and freewheel.(?) Then as it was cranking I heard a clunk. Now it will only freewheel. I bought the tractor last spring and it was reconditioned and I have for the most part only used it for mowing.
Any ideas?
 
Two likely possibilities: most likely is that the Bendix has fractured (it happened on both my 8N's after converting to 12 volts, and a new and improved Bendix solved it), and less likely and lot's more trouble is that some of the teeth on the flywheel are sheared off and it stopped at a place where it cannot engage. Hope for the former. By the way, the newer Bendix seems to slip in better when being installed. A good Mom and Pop shop in most towns will also put in new brushes when they do the newer version Bendix, and you will probably be good for life on that starter.
 
Dan,The starter drive broke or came off the shaft.Time to remove it for a look see.Remove the two long bolts ,while holding the starter together,then take two 5/16" NC nuts and put them on the end of the bolts to hold the starter together.Otherwise the starter will fall apart in your hands and you will have more problems.Some say that there is room for several drives to be left in the bottom,and there is,but I don't want any left in my tractors as bad things can happen.Fish broken drives and parts out if you can.Replace the drive with the new style drive it is much better.
 
As Den & Jim said...?.probably the Bendix. But do check the ring gear when you get the starter off.

The starter has 3 major exterior components; front plate, barrel & rear plate. The 2 bolts that hold the starter on to the bell housing go through all three components & hold it all together. To remove the starter, unscrew the bolts out of the block & put a nut on one of them. Otherwise, the starter comes apart. Not fatal, but not fun either. (tip # 36 at the link below) Then, loosen the two bolts holding the oil filter canister to the block, (it does not need to be removed) remove the dipstick, and keep the starter close to the block while pushing the front of it down and lifting the back up. Sometimes you have to remove the drain petcock as well. The bendix is behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Caution: while the starter is off, resist the temptation to screw with the bendix. If you extend the bendix, and it is not the OEM bendix w/ the big spring, you will have a hard time getting the starter installed.

As Jim said, take it to a local shop & you probably won't need to del w/ a starter problem for 20 years.

To install the starter, keep it close to the block while pulling the front of it up and pushing the bendix back into the hole. The bendix has to go behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Lastly, while the starter is off, polish the block & all starter mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground. First, clean the mating area between the barrel and rear plate. Then, clean the mating surfaces where the aluminum rear plate meets the bell housing. The starter's ground circuit is not only through the two long bolts but from the barrel to the rear plate & then to the bell housing as well.
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Thanks guys, really appreciate the help. I am not sure what the different parts are called but the gear(?) is split in two places. It is obvious that it is not a new or rebuilt starter. I can buy a new starter for $110.00 plus shipping and with my limited knowledge I think this is the best way for me to go. Again thanks for the help.
 
" I can buy a new starter for $110.00 "

That's not a wise choice.


I?ve been working on old cars, trucks & tractors now for over 50 years. Whenever possible, I get OEM component parts rebuilt. Given the high probability that any new component part purchased for an N tractor is made somewhere overseas w/o adequate quality control, chances are very good that you will be disappointed.



What you have on that tractor has lasted nearly 70 years. All it needs is a Bendix and probably brushes.



Most rebuilds cost $80-$100 around here.
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