(quoted from post at 18:43:17 03/01/17) my 8n starter was dragging, and then the magic smoke came out. any suggestions.
i took the plunge and bought one of the mini high torque starters because i got tired of replacing the junk fall apart factory starters. No problems starting now.
 
Eric.........starter drive (commonally called Bendix drive) must be SQUEEKY CLEAN. Squander $10 (cheap) onna can of brake shoe cleaner and semi-remove yer starter (2-ea) 8-in long screws and kinda tilt the front of the starter motor down and into the block and give yer starter bendix a good hozeing. Itt'l all drain out the bottom of the tranny housing. Removing and re-installing yer starter motor is a real drag. Iff'n you do haffta remove it, find some nuts to fit the 8-in screws (5/16-20?) to hold the motor together. Then ya haffta lift the bendix UP and OVER the flywheel gears. Replacement should be intuitively obvious, a roll-pin hazzta be punched out of the shaft. You need to wrap the starter gear with a rag to catch the parts that go flying. (don't ask me how I know) Replace with modern "clutch" style Bendix. Installation is a reversal of the removal. Be certain to sandpaper BOTH the starter plate and the tranny housing fer good electrical contact. Remember, yer stater motor pulls 150-amps. .........HTH, electrical Dell
 
thanks for the advice. I see where I can order the rebuild kit, but I am sort of worried about the condition of the electrical parts due to the magic smoke releasing. rebuild should be easy. famous last words, lol.
 
Kev518n,How long have you had it on your tractor ,about a year?,and how is it working out for you?I remember telling you about them a year ago.I just haven't had to replace any of mine yet to order one.I looked and I found the old post.
Gear Reduction Starter
 
Replacing the Bendix is an easy shade tree job. Rebuilding the starter isn't. Starter and generator work involves a lot of special tools and equipment to press out bearings/bushings and press new ones in, turn the armature and then undercut it, not to mention testing the armature on a growler mechanism. If it's done right it will likely not have to be done again on your tractor for a long time.

I?ve been working on old cars, trucks & tractors now for over 50 years. Whenever possible, I get OEM component parts rebuilt. Given the high probability that any new component part purchased for an N tractor is made somewhere overseas w/o adequate quality control, chances are very good that you will be disappointed. If you do not have a local rebuild shop, give these guys a call for a quote & shipping info:

Automotive Manufacturers Inc
2400 N Lombardy St Richmond, VA 23220
(804) 321-6861

They do mail order work. They rebuild carbs, clutches, pressure plates, water pumps, alternators, generators, starters & reline brakes.
75 Tips
 
Good advice given already and I will just add that if you don't have the tools to DIY, you can always take it to your trusty local starter/alternator guy as he has all the right stuff to do it right and the experience to boot. The I & T F-04 manual and the Ford Tractor OP manuals tell how to R&R it. 8N starter pocket has a machined scallop to help assist assembly. Once you pull starter out, put the two bolts back in and secure with hex nuts to keep the unit from falling apart til you get it on the bench.

8N Starter Pocket Milled Scallop:
DSC03228.jpg

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
I forget to add this: Why did the starter fail in the first place? They don't just 'quit and release their smoke'. I'd check wiring while starter is being rebuilt; it sounds like something shorted out...

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<font color="#FFFFFF" size="3">*9N653I* & *8NI55I3*</font>​
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Bruce:
For many years I have read your good advice on the "N series". In one of my 8N booklets, vintage 1950, it mentions that at 1500 RPMs the engine , if in good condition, the oil pressure reading is supposed to be 25 PSI. I fully realize that these old engines can, do or will operate at less pressure. I don't know if this fact from FORD is worth mentioning in your 75 tips.
Doug Graham
 
(quoted from post at 12:47:06 03/02/17) Bruce:
For many years I have read your good advice on the "N series". In one of my 8N booklets, vintage 1950, it mentions that at 1500 RPMs the engine , if in good condition, the oil pressure reading is supposed to be 25 PSI. I fully realize that these old engines can, do or will operate at less pressure. I don't know if this fact from FORD is worth mentioning in your 75 tips.
Doug Graham

Thank you.

That's an excellent idea. I'll add it to the list!
 
I was stupid and didn't get it rebuilt or replaced when it started dragging after the first of the year. and I kept trying to start it and it got hot. so once again stupid operator error.
 
(quoted from post at 21:47:22 03/01/17) Kev518n,How long have you had it on your tractor ,about a year?,and how is it working out for you?I remember telling you about them a year ago.I just haven't had to replace any of mine yet to order one.I looked and I found the old post.
Gear Reduction Starter
About 6 months. Works great
 
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