8N will not start up

Tom/Idaho

Member
1948 8N 12 volt. w/12 volt round coil. Always starts right up & runs great. Till yesterday!
Got a link-belt fan belt as the front mounted pump has the pump drive shaft in the way.
Removed dist./coil/ & alternator for room to reassemble the belt links.
re-assembled all parts and tractor would not start. After cranking a bit, it started backfiring thru the carburetor & spits some gas out. Never ever, ever done that before. To me that would suggest intake valves or distributor timing.
Nice blue spark on all 4 plugs. Checked dist. cap and wires are in correct hole.
Removed distributor checked points still .015 & checked timing (w/Old Hokie tool & JMOR inst.) still right on. Still no start & occasional back fire thru carb. Not as often as before but still does. During the last attempt to start it back fired thru the carb and a small flame as well. Don't want that!
Compression: #4 dry 115; 125 oil: #3 dry 115; 85 oil : #2 dry 115; 120 oil: #1 dry 100; 115 oil.
Gas flows from carb drain but does not foul plugs when trying to start as they are dry as a bone.
Starting fluid does nothing. I would consider the carb being plugged were it not for the carb backfiring.
I am pretty familiar with these motors but am overlooking something.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Thank you,
Tom/Idaho
 
it started backfiring thru the carburetor & spits some gas out. Never ever, ever done that before. To me that would suggest intake valves
or distributor timing.

Check the firing order - 1,2,4,3. Easy to get the 3 & swapped.
 

It's Square coil, not round coil. My error.
Spark plug wires are in the correct holes on dist. cap. I traced all four wires about 10 times. It would be nice if that was the solution, but, it's not.
Thanks, Tom/Idaho
 
Tom/Idaho, I believe you somehow have the distributor out 180%. Remove the distributor and look the housing over good for cracks around the drive end for cracks ect,check for side play in the shaft bushings.If it is ok check the drive tangs for being badly worn,also the cam slots.If every thing looks ok If not replace the distributor. Set points to .015,pull #1 plug and with your finger in the hole bump the starter till you just feel compression then stop.Use a straw from like a PB Blaster can and put it in the plug hole angled towards the piston.Then rotate the crankshaft forward or backwards,Maybe with vice grips on the front pump drive shaft till you find TDC of the piston.Install the distributor with gasket and the rotor in #1 location.It should go up tight against the front cover tight (no space)and tighten bolts.Install cap,wires (in proper location),coil and ignition wire with gasket under coil. Then try starting it.
 
Tom, I know you've checked the firing order. But it was running before you removed the distributor. Now it won't run. Nothing happened to the valve timing, nothing happened to the compression. You have a strong spark. It has to be something you've overlooked while putting the distributor back on. Like the others said, 1,2,4,3 CCW, distributor cap clean and dry?
 
Firing order off because distributor is out
of time. Find TDC on #1 and see where your
rotor is pointing. Make sure you're on
compression stroke and not exhaust. If not
at #1 on the distributor that your issue.
 
Everyone was right on this problem but me. I have removed/installed more Ford N distributors that I can count. Without a problem till now.
It would appear that when I put the distributor back on, I carelessly installed the tangs on the shaft (9N12187) out of line with the cam and ruined them. The tangs were worn enough to allow me to put it on 180 out. I missed that when I had it apart.
Should have been obvious what the problem was. Just never happened before.
I had another distributor that I rebuilt and with a lot more caution installed it and the tractor fired right up.
As I said you all were right and I was wrong. All of you who responded with what I should do.
Thanks very much for helping me see the light.
Tom/Idaho
 
Thanks for the follow up. Glad you figured it out. Maybe this will keep someone else from k=making the same mistake.
 
Tom-
We all make mistakes, even with experience. Getting the front mount distributor mounted off 180 may nick the cam tangs a bit but the damage is done to the aluminum base of the unit when this happens rendering the base junk. You can find a decent used unit and replace all the guts from yours with it and reuse.

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN MOUNTED 180 OFF:
eQMN65Fh.jpg
fqKAmFuh.jpg


FORD TRACTOR FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR FIRING ORDER; 1,2,4,3 CCW:
Tbt5WvEh.jpg

FRONT MOUNT TIMING PROCEDURE:
nM5tfJNh.jpg



Tim Daley(MI)
 
Tom, as HCook said, thanks for the update. It was nice that you had a backup distributor. How did the new fan belt work out?
 
How did the new fan belt work out?

Great.
Harbor Freight # 43771 Vibration Free Link Belt $34.99
www.megadynegroup.com

So much easier, simpler than removing a bunch of stuff to fit a solid belt.
I had to remove a couple things (for more room) simply because I am handicapped.
Would recommend it to everyone.
Tom/Idaho


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