95 GMC u-joints

[Dopp Creek]

While I am waiting for my transmission
parts I thought I would replace the u-
joints in the front and rear driveline.
The front shaft from the transfer case to
the front axle had the caps standing proud
of the yoke about .030 and 90 degrees to
that the caps fit snugly in the yoke as
they should. When I pushed out the cross,
I found snap ring grooves about half way
in the yoke. I have not seen a u-joint
that was not secured with clips. I had the
auto parts guy pull up the specified joint
and it was the same dimension as the one I
removed. I also noted this strap affixed
to the two caps that are secured in the
yoke. Can someone tell me what I have and
if they run u-joints without clips?
The light bands on the 12:00 & 6:00 caps
are where the grooves are in the yoke.

 

[504]

GM has not used clips from the factory for 30 years or longer. Polish the holes with emery cloth and the new ones will have clips,probably on the inside of the crosses. I usually put a little heat on them before I drive them out.

 

[wore out]

/quote]

"I found snap ring grooves about half way in the yoke"

Those are NOT "snap ring grooves", when the driveline was made the cups were pressed into place in a jig that located them exactly, then some sort of plastic was injected into the grooves that locked the cups in place when it cooled/hardened.

You can see the remnants of that plastic in the grooves in the "cups" that you have removed.

The correct "cross kits" will have snap ring grooves in the cups and come with snap rings that get installed on the cups on the inner side of the yoke.


HOPEFULLY when you knocked out the cups and sheared the injected plastic you didn't deform the yokes. I predict you have a bit of a challenge ahead of you to get the cups installed and locked in place with the snap rings that come with the kit.
Post back if you need any more details.

 

[old]

I learned years ago to get them out you heat them up to melt the plastic or you ed up bending the yoke on the drive shaft

 

[4play]

I always torched them to melt the plastic. Find the little holes in the yoke where the plastic is injected, you want to point the holes away from you because sometimes the melted plastic will shoot out and can burn you.

You might have to use a pick or small flat head to clean the grooves so rings will fit.

 

[miangus]

Will likely have inside snap rings on replacement. Use a flat file to clean inside flat for snap ring. I use a brake hone to polish the bores. A little prep makes for easy assembly. I am surprised you got it apart without melting the epoxy. Usually things get wrecked if the epoxy isnt melted.

 

[rustred]

that is the factory set up with plastic. that strap holds the 2 end caps on when u joint is removed from shaft. i have replaced lots of those in the garage years back . never used heat on one either. plastic is not that tough.

 

[Dopp Creek]

I used a ball joint press and the end of the cap broke on both sides. After that I cut the cross out and then knocked the rest of cap to the inside with a punch. Amazing to me that these might be the original u-joints after 25 years

 

[Stephen Newell]

The U-Joint itself doesn't have snap rings. You can easily pull the caps off. Just don't pull the caps off the new U-joint, there is nothing but grease holding the needle bearings in. The snap rings hold the U-joint in the yoke and the drive shaft.

 

[T.R.K.]

I just want to add: Be sure to put the clips on ALL the caps in the rear 'cross'!

I bought a Tahoe about 6 years ago and last year about halfway to work my rear drive shaft started 'clunking'. I made it back home, but found that some yahoo had put the rear caps under the straps on the pinion yoke without the clips and one of the caps was missing. It had taken about 5 years to work its way out from under the strap.

 

[Hobo,NC]

Humm... Can you explain how to install'em with the caps on...

I always pull all the caps and make sure all the roller pins are intact. While there add a little grease to hold them well while installing the caps.

Personally I prefer sealed joints (no grease fitting). Injected plastic I use a torch to head them for take off while there cut the cross out : )