960 rear main engine seal

[Tom Bond]

As previously posted, I have a rear main oil seal leaking on my 960. Some say it can be changed in place from underneath, others say the engine needs to be removed and put on a stand. For $25 or so, I can get the FelPro rubber seal kit off Amazon and give it a shot in place. If succesful, it's a win, if not, I guess I learn how to pull the engine on a row crop. How hard is it to get the old rope stlye seal out in place? The general concensus is to replace it with the rubber lipped seal.
What do you think? Anyone have any luck from underneath with the rubber seal? Thanks! Tom

The seal kit I've found is FelPro BS6141-3. Look correct?

 

[cushman]

As previously posted, I have a rear main oil seal leaking on my 960. Some say it can be changed in place from underneath, others say the engine needs to be removed and put on a stand. For $25 or so, I can get the FelPro rubber seal kit off Amazon and give it a shot in place. If succesful, it's a win, if not, I guess I learn how to pull the engine on a row crop. How hard is it to get the old rope stlye seal out in place? The general concensus is to replace it with the rubber lipped seal.
What do you think? Anyone have any luck from underneath with the rubber seal? Thanks! Tom

The seal kit I've found is FelPro BS6141-3. Look correct?

I recently did an 860 from underneath,after lifting the front and about 6" using jackstands.Doing that gains room to work , which the 960 already gives you.

 

[shaun wallace]

If has rope in it loosen center main, that lets crank drop down a bit. Leave that way when installing lip seal , do not install flush with block. Leave 1/2 inch or so sticking out, makes no difference witch side. The side seals give most trouble, getting wire pushed in can be the biggest trouble . A decking screw will usually pull the rope style out.

 

[showcrop]

As shaun posted it is the side seals that are the most trouble. Those flimsy little rods will go 7/8 of the way in and then bend. There are other side seals which are simple dimple to install. They may be the ones that are sometimes described as oil absorbing paper. Those are what I used on my last job, unfortunately they were on a 55 year old Japanese motor and came with a rope seal. If you can find those in a kit for the 172 along with the neoprene lip seal you will have an easy job.

 

[Hobo,NC]

As previously posted, I have a rear main oil seal leaking on my 960. Some say it can be changed in place from underneath, others say the engine needs to be removed and put on a stand. For $25 or so, I can get the FelPro rubber seal kit off Amazon and give it a shot in place. If succesful, it's a win, if not, I guess I learn how to pull the engine on a row crop. How hard is it to get the old rope stlye seal out in place? The general concensus is to replace it with the rubber lipped seal.
What do you think? Anyone have any luck from underneath with the rubber seal? Thanks! Tom

The seal kit I've found is FelPro BS6141-3. Look correct?

Google ford fe 360 rear main seal installation there are plenty of youtube video on this. I use the victor reinz seal with the sealer. If it has a rope seal and the upper comes out its not a bad job to do. If you have to fight the upper seal out my take is a new seal will not resolve your issue, you will have to take the crank out and evaluate it : (.



My other tip no matter what seal you use if the original paper side seals come out undamaged clean them up apply a sealer and put them back in, Life will be good. This is where you will get into trouble and there is nothing wrong with reusing the original side seal as long as you clean and seal them.

If you have new paper side seals take them out of the pack apply a sealer and install Life will be good.