9N/8N Starting problems

[Lurch]

After overhauling the 8N engine, it eventually has starting problems.

It has a new battery, generator, cut-off, resistor, coil **, ampmeter.

It appeared that the battery wasn't charging.

Battery after several starts, is at about 6.2 volts all of the time. Starter is not able to turn over. I had an auto store charge battery back up to 7.2 volts and it would initially start the tractor ok.

Now,engine can only be started with jump to starter with 12v battery. then appears to run ok **


Ampmeter, while still in store box pegged at -5 amps. Immediatley after starting the ampmeter still pegs at -5 amps. So esentially "0"


The starter, even when jumped with 12v battery, many times, turns breifly and then sounds like it's disengaging with a high pitched spinning sound.


So is 6.2 normally enough to turn that starter?

Does it sound like the starter is shot?

Is the ampmeter reading the way it should.

** meantime, with the new coil in and running, the tractor stopped on it's own and i may have forgotten to get to it and shut the key off.

 

[old]

Sounds like you either have bad connections some place or a starter that is getting weak. As far as leaveing the switch on you probably burnt the points and if its a front mount also fried the coil
Hobby farm

 

[A. Bohemian]

Quote: "Ampmeter, while still in store box pegged at -5 amps. Immediatley after starting the ampmeter still pegs at -5 amps. So esentially "0""

What?

It sure sounds like somebody fried that ammeter, returned it as defective, and it was put back in the box and out for sale.

These are ZERO CENTER ammeters. They should be at ZERO in the box when new. Otherwise, the meter is almost certainly defective.

Here's what your ammeter should show:

Before the ignition switch is thrown, ZERO!

When you first turn on the ignition, before cranking, it should read a DISCHARGE of three amps.

When the tractor is cranking, the meter will fluctuate as the points open and close.

After starting, the ammeter should show a POSITIVE reading of several amps until the battery is charged, when the cut-off should cause it to return to zero. This generally only takes a minute or two.

Your battery is probably not charging. From your description it sounds like you may have made a mistake in wiring in the new generator, cut-out etc.

You DID follow the instructions, right? You didn't leave anything out because "you don't really NEED that," did you?

And, if you saw the ammeter was pegged in the box and whoever sold it to you told you that was ok, their advice would be HIGHLY suspect from now on...

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Front or side distributor? Troubleshooting is different, so do let us know what you have.

"It appeared that the battery wasn't charging." Well, don't guess, get a meter & find out. Clearly the ammeter on the tractor is defective.

".....turns breifly and then sounds like it's disengaging with a high pitched spinning sound." Yes, the bendix is disengaging & it may be defective. And, if it only turns on 12v, the starter may need some work. To remove the starter, unscrew the bolts out of the block & put a nut on one of them. Otherwise, the starter comes apart. Not fatal, but not fun either. Then, loosen the two bolts holding the oil filter canister to the block, remove the dipstick, and keep the starter close to the block while pushing the front of it down and lifting the back up. Sometimes you have to remove the drain petcock as well.The bendix is behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

To install the starter, keep it close to the block while pulling the front of it up and pushing the bendix back into the hole. The bendix has to go behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel. Grinding out an egg shape at the 2 o'clock position before you put it back will make your life easier.

Lastly, while the starter is off, polish the block & starter mating surfaces w/ sandpaper to insure a good electrical ground between the two, and clean the mating surfaces where the starter's "belly" meets the aluminum endbell. The starter's ground circuit is through that "joint" as well was through the starter endbell-to-flywheel housing joint.

And, finally, if you left the key on for any length of time, you probably fried the points and maybe the coil.
50 Tips

 

[old]

LOL you did it again. But yes I agree he probably has a new bad meter/guage
Hobby farm

 

[Lurch]

It's front mount distributor.

I base the battery not appearing to be charging on the ammeter, which fluctuates around -5 amps

I have a multi-tester available, but i just plain don't know how to tes if it's being charged.

When I say "essentially 0" about the ammeter i mean that since it is centered at -5 amps and fluctuates around -5 amps when running there is "0" or no difference.

Surfaces were already cleaned around starter.

Ammeter is from TSC and i'll be returning it.

When I say "essentially 0" about the ammeter i mean that since it is centered at -5 amps and fluctuates around -5 amps when running there is "0" or no difference.


When turning key on ammeter does not move.

Cut-off is wired with wire from generator going to terminal NOT marked "Bat". Wire from Bat terminal on cut-off, goes to post on ammeter nearest ignition switch.

Earlier todsy, got tractor started and ran fine for at least 1 1/2 hours before I shut it off to do some other things.


Since i made the post this morning, i went to TSC and bought a brand new starter. Just put it in.

Turn the key on, ammeter stays at -5 amps.


Hit the starer switch, ammeter swings over to about 5+ amps, But absolutely nothing. No sound no cranking, nothing.
Is there some part or retainers or something that has to be removed from the starter before installing it?

Hope i covered everything.